First Gear "Creep" With Clutch Disengaged

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hey mike i will go right now and look at the weber i will be right back, also they should have the rebuild kit on that site i sent you think its about 25 bucks i cant remember, and ya im sure yours will be perfect to rebuild as mine had lots of mileage on it. also you will like the DD mod if you end up doing it if not the pcw is also a good middle from dd and stock.
 
i looked it up mike, yup the SK model, it goes from 0-10 in big graduations then 10-30 not so accurate,meaning smaller spaces from 10-30. weber works great very sensitive do not need to make perfect seal any draw will make it move, so resist the urge to test by pulling air thru it hard, just a light breeze will move it.
 
im sure you will get your stock one after a rebuild running good, no reason not too, bit lots of guys running fjr and like it so im sure you will find the happy middle ground.
 
I sure hope so man.I've rebuilt wheel brake cylinders on cars but never a motorcycle.I have a good shop manual and mechanically inclined so hopefully it goes well.

O --Thanks for that bit of info.So since new your bike has been kind of hard to find neutral.Interesting.

Mike
 
I researched the FJR master cyl referring to the front brake, & decided to just replace the stock master cyl. Since I upgraded to FZR 1000 4 pot calipers, & the formula I posted on here said the size I had for the master cyl. bore matched the # of pistons, I am OK w/how it turned out. Not much difference for the clutch probably. If all is within spec, the system sould work fine. If it doesn't, ya gotta look for the weak link(s). Gven the affordability of a stock replacement (~$100 shipped), I will go with the replacement instead of a rebuild. Now if I was Captain Kyle, flipping a bike, I can see going the cheap shot. I've had mine for 19 years, it's 20 y.o. this coming model cycle, & I see no need to scrimp, reasonably-speaking.
 
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