Idle screw adjustment

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mgosset1

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Oct 29, 2011
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need a few opinions here.....how far is your idle screw, screwed up to hit the linkage....1/8 inch, 6 threads..??...does it screw in a lot, etc....need some ideas...still having trouble getting the idle right on this bike....friend did the shotgun procedure, peashooter and you name it.....runs great down the road, just don't idle good.....
 
Dude is the fuel filter clean? It could be starving its self and there fore making everything act wacky..I went through my carbs more than once and on the second time I pulled the fuel filter and yep it was fugged up. Just an opinion
 
i got some of the E3 spark plugs ordered for it and going to the yamaha house in the am and get a damn fuel filter.....you never know....bike is wicked fast once you get on the road.....that should eliminate the fuel filter issue, but i am going to change it out anyway.....i got nothing to lose man....about ready to take it to the yamaha house and spend some bucks on it..have tried about everything...man i want this bike running perfect and not going to be satisfied until it does.....damn bike set in storage for 9 years...i knew it when i bought it....i also knew it would not idle when i bought it....ticks me off thou...
 
wait, what? it's been in the storage for nine years? man i'd bet them carbs are all gunked up and varnished. i'll bet you need to clean out the idling circuit. try running some Start Your Engine through the bike. folks here swear by it. pay attention to the dosage.
 
No offense but I wouldn't waste time/$ on gimmicky spark plugs. Won't change anything but your wallet's burden. Stock NGK DPR8EA-9 are perfectly fine for any application.

Try putting the choke on a little bit at idle. Does that help or hurt the problem? If it helps, it's too lean. Hurts, it's too rich. Adjust the a/f screws accordingly(out for richer, in for leaner) to see if you can't help it a bit. Idle problems are typically caused by a lean condition though.

If that, the peashooter/shotgun, and a sync don't help, looks like you'll have no choice to pull the carbs for a proper cleaning.

You might also check all the rubber boots for an air leak, from the airbox down to the head. Also check the rubber covers on the sync ports are sealing well, and the hose that runs from the #1 cylinder up to the manifold pressure sensor.
 
i done ordered the spark plugs.....i like the other ideas you have...it will idle all day long with a little choke...gonna do the spark plugs and the filter...man i ain't no mechanic and am retired, sure as hell ain't broke....about ready to take it in and just bite the bullet....am tired of jacking with it....long as it sat up, them carbs probably gonna have to be pulled and i know it....may shop around the Dallas area and look for a better deal than the Yamaha house offers....May try that start your engine first....thanks for the ideas....its frustrating...
 
hit the guys up here for some rebuilt carbs. dannymax, one2dmax, and captainkyle, come to mind. also someone offers at the cost of a donation to his charity sonically cleaned carbs. it maybe cheaper any one of these ways in comparison to the stealership. i once priced it out for someone, but typically, you'll be giving the stealership somewhere's around $400-$500 to rebuild your carbs. man if you're retired, rebuild the carbs yourself. i've said many times before to the members, but i'll say it again. i'm no way wucha call a mechanic. i punch a keyboard for a living, but know how to change the oil on my cars. if you can change the oil, you can rebuild the carbs.

i'll hunt down the various threads and posts to help support my words.....
 
Being retired with a family of four, with two kids in school and wife owning her own company kinda makes me what you would call a Mr. Mom....and its different that the Michael Keaton movie...man I am busy as hell...Retired don't mean much right now....I do all the stuff at the house; and I mean all...Usually have a couple hours in the mornings to play; thats about it...I have read the threads on carb rebuilds....I don't possess that kind of patience...I will wind up jacking with it a little more until I exhaust all efforts, then bite the bullet....Appreciate the advice.
 
right on. i understand. didn't mean to offend, if my post was taken as such. if you do end up taking it in to a pro-shop or stealership, and they quote you anything more than $500, take your business elsewhere. good luck brutha!
 
no offense taken my friend...got a couple more things am going to try before i do it....not in a huge hurry; just a little frustrated with it....
 
The carbs are really easy to do with a can of carb cleaner, some time and common hand tools. You will probably spend more time tinkering with them trying to get them right than actually tearing them down and properly cleaning them. Good luck with it, I hope you get it straightened out. Very frustrating, I know!
 
i got some of the E3 spark plugs ordered for it and going to the yamaha house in the am and get a damn fuel filter.....you never know....bike is wicked fast once you get on the road.....that should eliminate the fuel filter issue, but i am going to change it out anyway.....i got nothing to lose man....about ready to take it to the yamaha house and spend some bucks on it..have tried about everything...man i want this bike running perfect and not going to be satisfied until it does.....damn bike set in storage for 9 years...i knew it when i bought it....i also knew it would not idle when i bought it....ticks me off thou...

Tha manual says 15k, or something crazy like that.I do it 3 times a season if riding a lot-change the filter that is. I don 't think they had todays gas in mind when they printed the Gen 1 manual in the 80's.
Sat in storage tells us it's prolly gummed up-tear down if so, dried up, needs rubbers checked on carb,air box, vboost. To start with, then see how she runs.
All these issues can happen in way less than 9 years.
Steve-o
 
Well I put a new fuel filter on the bike and now its idling about 90% perfect...lol.....damn fuel filter was full of black crap bigtime.....its still cold natured but running good when warmed up....i got me some of then E3-36 diamond end plugs going to put in tomorrow; should help some also......plugs in it has been in since 2001.....nothing hardly has been touched on this bike...got my knee plates installed that I ordered from the dude in Scotland who makes em.....looks good.....I had no idea a fuel filter could make that kind of difference....
 
Well I put a new fuel filter on the bike and now its idling about 90% perfect...lol.....damn fuel filter was full of black crap bigtime.....its still cold natured but running good when warmed up....i got me some of then E3-36 diamond end plugs going to put in tomorrow; should help some also......plugs in it has been in since 2001.....nothing hardly has been touched on this bike...got my knee plates installed that I ordered from the dude in Scotland who makes em.....looks good.....I had no idea a fuel filter could make that kind of difference....
Glad you got it running better than it was for sure. Im going to be up in the DFW area this weekend if the weather is right Im going to bring my bike if not my truck. Its been kinda weird weather here in Tx lately. You should hit me up if you ever trip down to Austin.
 
Seafoam and such cleaners can sometimes make the problem worse as I guess you found...they clean all the crap out of the tank, which then plugs up the fuel filter. Give that start your engines a go now there's a fresh filter.

"Cold blooded" is redneck for too lean. Engines need a rich condition when cold to counteract the fuel that condenses back to liquid droplets on the cylinder walls and doesn't burn. Remember liquid gas does not burn, it's vapors do. So even though the carbs are metering in the correct amount of fuel, the actual burn is lean. You need "too rich" metering to achieve an "ideal" burn when cold. As the motor warms up and the cylinder walls heat up, the gas no longer condenses from contacting a cold surface, and you no longer need the choke...and why a hot motor will run like poo with the choke on.

"Cold blooded", as in something takes a long time to warm up, is because the incoming mixture is knife-edge lean to start with(even for a hot motor), so the burn will be too-lean until the motor is fully warmed up and very little/no gas condenses. Correctly fueled motors will start to run OK after typically a few seconds, since there's a little extra fuel to go around if a bit continues to condense, it'll still run OK(with a smelly exhaust). The Vmax is a big motor, with a lot of oil, and a lot of coolant. Mine will take 10-15 minutes of idling to reach normal operating temp (180* coolant temp), and up to 30-45min of driving for the oil to reach it's peak operating temp.

Turn your a/f screws out in 1/2 turn increments. To check if they're in sync, pick one of the screws, and turn it in until it bottoms, noting how many revolutions(a piece of electrical tape on the screwdriver to act as a flag helps with this). Then back it out the same number, and repeat with the others, setting them all the same.
 
i did that with the screw on the left side, it only took about a half turn to choke it down, then i took it back to where it was.......will do all three like that....damn good idea.....not hurting anything either....thanks for the advice...thats the screws with the big springs behind them i assume....one on the left and two on the right side...
 
i have a farm in hamilton; headed down there friday.....bought a nice A/R bushmaster not long ago in Austin....met a guy at the loop by the airport over there....man it was a pretty ride back to Hamilton.....
 
i did that with the screw on the left side, it only took about a half turn to choke it down, then i took it back to where it was.......will do all three like that....damn good idea.....not hurting anything either....thanks for the advice...thats the screws with the big springs behind them i assume....one on the left and two on the right side...


No, those are the screws for carb sync adjustment. Left one syncs #1 and #2 (left side), the rear right one syncs #3 and #4(right side), the front right one syncs 1/2 to 3/4 (sets right to left). Not saying a sync would be a bad idea, but you need some sort of vacuum gauge to adjust them, otherwise you're walking blind.

Each carb has it's own a/f screw, it's near the bottom under the diaphragm covers, really the only adjustment readily visible. If the bike is totally stock, they may have anti-tamper (emissions) "plugs" over the holes which you'll have to yank. Use a small drill bit and poke a hole in the covers, then use a "nose picker" to just pry them out. If you don't have one, thread a self-tapping screw in there, grab that with pliers, and giver 'er a good yank. They'll pop out. It's a flathead screw that's recessed about an inch.
 
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