jetting suggestions

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dodgediesel59

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Well I should have my block and pistons back monday. I am curious what I should try to set initial jetting and needle height at. It will be a 1500 with 03 pcw camshafts. Any thoughts would be great!
 
calling pcw im sure they would give you a pretty good carb set yup.
 
Mine, a 1540, 13:1, with same cam and stage 7 setup is setup with 180 Mikuni mains, which my wideband tells me is too rich and plan and going down one more size next opportunity.
PAJ 1 is stock 90 PAJ 2 is a 177.5, it has stage 7 needles in it, stage 7 slide springs, and I can't remember what clip they are on but think it is sort of in the "middle" or towards the leaner side.

It starts, runs and behaves very well with this setup and has no soggy or flat spots no matter how I beat on it.

I had to reinstall the Vboost on mine to get it to idle worth a crap and not intermittently backfire at idle, I played with every idle setting and synch possible and could not cure it. PCW told me it was a combination of the cams (overlap) and compression causing the issue and to put the Vboost back in so all the cam overlap wasn't exposed to multiple cylinders at idle. I did and it fixed it.

(Actually PCW didn't tell ME this, I asked and they would only offer for me to send them the carbs and they'd "set them up" for me, but I hadn't done business with them and they didn't build or provide parts for the motor. I got a friend of mine that has one of their motors to call and ask the same question and they told HIM)

You wouldn't see this issue with flat slides since they work with individual intake runners anyway.

By the way, the stage 7 oil evac setup was totally not up to the task, and if run hard would puke lots of oil back into the two carbs doing the sucking and give the outside of the engine an oil bath too. I had to come up with a free breathing system (no sucking action from the carbs) with a much bigger reservoir, and add some restriction to the hoses as well to get it under control. It still uses the oil fill cap hose from the stage 7 and the stock breather box hose, feeding into a large potato size catch can with an old hot rod style valve cover free breather cap. I stuffed the catch can with plastic dish scrubbers.
This was fabbed out if a 2" PVC pipe and Tee and end caps (on each end) Tee facing up for the breather, and other assorted off the shelf items from Lowes Hardware, using devcon epoxy to attach the "sort of" threaded in hose fittings.
 
Thanks for the info.rusty. I was also thinking of ditching the air box breather. Where did you end up finding a spot to put the catch can?
 
If you get to where you need to do one holler and I'll post some
pics.

A better setup would have been a manufactured can on a frame rail with a drain hose but I didn't want any thing hanging off the bike.
 
Yea I was thinking about fabbing an aluminum catch can but I don't know where to put it. I have the factory air box with the big filter in the lid. I know before I would drip oil everywhere with the oil cap breather y-ed into the air box. I just don't want oil on this bike anymore. It's hard to make fun of the hardly guys when I leak more oil than they do!
 
The first time I ran my bike real hard with the new motor on some tuning runs I'd thought I had blown the motor because on sudden decal I saw a HUGE cloud of oil smoke rolling out the exhaust pipe. Thought I'd trashed it. That was when I discovered the stage 7 wasn't handling the oil control and that it had dumped a load of oil down the carbs.
 
By rights if I guy made a baffled vented catch can that was mounted vertically on the bike, the catch can would drain back to the crankcase when It was shut off right?
 
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