My Vmax performing like a 500cc

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Stage 1 needles are richer than canadian as the taper is slimmer adding more gas.
Finding the right answer to an individual engine is determined by trial and error.
Altitude will make a huge difference so if someone from Denver is offering advice and someone from Miami is offering advice it will be different. Take that into account and apply to your altitude-This is what facers who travel around the country have to contend with.
You can make a slot into the brass jet -a toothpick into the hole ( with the carbs off of the bike) to keep fragments from falling into the engine -a magnet and a pair of reversible snap ring pliers- or hemostats work well for extraction.
 
once i get all carbs apart i'll take an inventory of what i got, and we'll get goin on ordering jets.

i got the 160 out of there, the first one, and it's pretty tore up though. so no good. on carb 2, i had to use same method to extract. didnt have to destroy it to extract. damn that brass is soft though,., good thing in this case. they need a tool to go thru the jet hole, then u push a button or something, and the end of it angles, or osmething to pull these out. ... i'm using a screw, so keep fingers crossed on the last 2.

anyways let me continue some surgery and i'll take inventory and we'll go form there. evrything is so clean tho from when i rebuilt in the fall. that's nice.
 
once i get all carbs apart i'll take an inventory of what i got, and we'll get goin on ordering jets.

i got the 160 out of there, the first one, and it's pretty tore up though. so no good. on carb 2, i had to use same method to extract. didnt have to destroy it to extract. damn that brass is soft though,., good thing in this case. they need a tool to go thru the jet hole, then u push a button or something, and the end of it angles, or osmething to pull these out. ... i'm using a screw, so keep fingers crossed on the last 2.

anyways let me continue some surgery and i'll take inventory and we'll go form there. evrything is so clean tho from when i rebuilt in the fall. that's nice.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Mik...ash=item23700b8608:g:WvQAAOSwgZ1Xv3j3&vxp=mtr
 
Ok, got all carbs torn apart, here's where I'm at.

1) You guys say I have Canadian Needles, do I need to purchase stock needle set from boats.net for like 12 bucks a piece? i'd rather not if can help it, but...

2) I have 5 inch springs for diaphragm. (stage 1 stuff from LONG time ago)

3) I have 3 good 160 jets, not pictured. but from sound if it, won't need.

4) I have to purchase the 90 jets (these go nearest to air box correct - they are visible when airbox off..? This is where the 160's were.... from whoever didn't know shit.....you know... the supposed expert... lol..what a shame..

5) I have 4 good 150 jets....

6) I can't tell what the jet is on the jet block itself.... it has some werid markings and I couldn't tell what was what.... but all 4 are same

7) I have 2 diaphragms that I tried to glue last fall..... they weren't TORN thru, but have the mesh material showing.... looking to fix these, would rather not have to purchase 2 new ones.... will have to order diaphragms off Ebay 4 for 100 bucks then try to fix the 2 bad ones... anyone know best method? i know that one guy ground down the metal lip, and was able to replace them.... looking to maybe experiment with another method like that one.... not sure how to tackle this but looks like it's gotta get done.

8) i have one small diaphragm that stretched out from cleaning in ultrasonic I think, or something I did. it'll still work I think.


Ok, so, needle clip position, what jets to buy for the 5" springs I have. etc etc..... Looking for advice, what do I need to do next?

The carbs are fully disassembled and VERY clean.

The only thing I took a picture to show is, do you see that rust in the gas tube in that pic? I gotta clean that out... advice on that?

Thanks guys. we're getting there.
 

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vmaxcarb.jpg


Main: Mikuni 152.5
Pilot fuel: Mikuni 37.5
PAJ2: Mikuni 170
PAJ1: Mikuni 90
 
1) do I need to purchase stock needle

NO

2) I have 5 inch springs for diaphragm. (stage 1 stuff from LONG time ago)

SHOULD BE OK TO USE.

3) I have 3 good 160 jets, not pictured. but from sound if it, won't need.

4) I have to purchase the 90 jets (these go nearest to air box correct - they are visible when airbox off..? This is where the 160's were.... from whoever didn't know shit.....you know... the supposed expert... lol..what a shame..

5) I have 4 good 150 jets....

THEY DON'T LOOK LIKE GENUINE MIKUNI PARTS. I'D NOT USE THEM. CONTACT SEAN FOR JETS. THEY ARE CHEAP.

6) I can't tell what the jet is on the jet block itself.... it has some werid markings and I couldn't tell what was what.... but all 4 are same.
LOOKS LIKE GENUINE MIKUNI PARTS THERE. I CAN'T SEE THE # THOUGH

7) I have 2 diaphragms that I tried to glue last fall..... they weren't TORN thru, but have the mesh material showing.... looking to fix these, would rather not have to purchase 2 new ones.... will have to order diaphragms off Ebay 4 for 100 bucks then try to fix the 2 bad ones... anyone know best method? i know that one guy ground down the metal lip, and was able to replace them.... looking to maybe experiment with another method like that one.... not sure how to tackle this but looks like it's gotta get done.

THERE IS SOME INFO HERE ON A COUPLE WAYS TO REPLACE THE RUBBER. YOU CAN TRY THAT. YOU CAN TRY TO FIND SOME USED SLIDES. YOU CAN TRY TO REPAIR EXISTING RUBBER WITH PL ROOF AND FLASHING SEALANT.

8) i have one small diaphragm that stretched out from cleaning in ultrasonic I think, or something I did. it'll still work I think.

NOT SURE ON THIS.

Ok, so, needle clip position, what jets to buy for the 5" springs I have. etc etc..... Looking for advice, what do I need to do next?

I'D GO WITH ALL STOCK EXCEPT THE MAIN JET. I'D PUT MIKUNI 150 MAINS IN.

The carbs are fully disassembled and VERY clean.

The only thing I took a picture to show is, do you see that rust in the gas tube in that pic? I gotta clean that out... advice on that?

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EH50R6K?psc=1
I'D TRY SOMETHING LIKE THIS. I WOULDN'T WORRY ABOUT REMOVING ALL TRACES OF RUST. JUST MAKE SURE NOTHING IS GOING TO FLAKE OFF AND END IN YOUR CARBS.

Thanks guys. we're getting there.

I put some suggestions next to your questions

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thanks everyone. nice diagram, thnx!

here is a pic of my pilot jet. look familiar or should i add to list of purchases? they are clean though.
 

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thanks everyone. nice diagram, thnx!

here is a pic of my pilot jet. look familiar or should i add to list of purchases? they are clean though.

also with the carbs out, i was looking around the bike a bit, observing. the fuse box(es?) look like they are in there, should I check them while it is somewhat accessible? anyone think one of the reasons my bike isn't running right (even though carb job was messed up and is in process of being corrected) couild be a bad fuse?

any tips etc on checking Vmax fuses?
 
Pull them out and see if any are broken-you can buy fuses that will light up when they have gone bad but it is lot easier to just hit the headlight,signals, fan and ignition. If they work then your fuses are good.
 
Fuses typically work, or not. Really no in between unless there is some kind of major resistance. To check a fuse just put a meter across the test points on the top of it. Should read close to 0.02 ohms.

It couldn't hurt to check over electrical connections. An ohm meter is a great trouble shooting tool. I reference all grounds to the negative battery post.

Lots of guys recommend dielectric grease. I think it's a good choose for connectors with small terminals but on grounds to frame, battery connections, starter connections, basically everything that isn't a multi conductor, small form connector, I use no-ox ID A special, or kopr shield. Both products are trusted in -48vdc Telco applications for major industry.

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thanks all.

ok so i looked at what i got for jets.

i have 3 - 160's not mikuni
4 - 150s not mikuni
4 - 90s that are mikuni. i never knew what they said cuz the font is so blocky... they were installed in the wrong spot how many yrs ago.

So I got the 90s, will order 150's and 170's all mikuni.

other than that, gotta fix or deal with diaphragms. the glue i put on there last time is flaky, not sure if i can even remove it cleanly to use the PL stuff mentioned before.. guess i'll try that first. and patch it with the recommended....

can a guy buy just 2 diaphragms anywhere? i wouldn't mind trying to fix the slides i got first before paying, what 150 bones for one new? omg..this stupid outdated bike. wrong place to be sayin that but hey, being honest.

what else.... think that's it for now.
 
Yes that is correct......but Sean might be cheaper. Those are 5 dollars a jet, and 4 dollars a jet.
 
Buy ate parts on line. Try this place. They have the jets for 1.99 You have to click on the jets and read the description to know if they are small round or large. I have gotten from them and are mikuni jets.


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102/221 jets the picture is wrong. Description is right.


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102/221 jets the picture is wrong. Description is right.


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wow nice! that's what i'm talkin about! thnx for savin me a few bucks.!! I'll keep this place in mind.

now these diaphragms..

I guess i can get the slide and diaphragm off Ebay for 50 bucks.i need 2.. i was thinking they were 150 but couple sellers have for <$55

or I pay 25 a piece just for diaphragms and have to try to get old ones off... thinking just buy the 2 new...
 
new jets are en-route. 2 new diaphragms/slides are en-route as well. should be last thing I need to buy for a while.. better be... oh yeah wait, the whole battery thing too.. ugh... later on that.

Once I receive them, I"ll start putting the carbs back together. Then set the floats at 16mm for starters.... A/F 2.5 turns out for starters.... I'll vid the first startup after all this and youtube it for ya'll to see.
 

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