Seems like most stock bikes on a Dynojet 250 dyno do something around 105-115 RWHP. Call it an average of 110 RWHP. The Dynojet Stage 7 jet kit and something like a Kerker 4 into 1 are (properly-tuned) good for a 10% improvement, so your low-side stock bike should be 115 RWHP and a good 125 /126 RWHP for a better stock bike. Add something like a 1300 Venture block and you're into the 130's. These bikes are from when you could get a set of full pipes designed for power and a jet kit, and then tune your way to some good improvements. Today's bikes are highly-tuned from the factory and it's harder to extract big #'s above stock without spending lots of $ and having the knowledge to work with fuel injection.
Yamaha's reading is 145 HP at the crankshaft, which was the commonly-accepted method of expressing horsepower. Good luck finding anyone (manufacturer) who gives a RWHP reading. Those come-from the magazines when they put the bike on a dyno, themselves. The kits supply you with a range of jets (carbureted bikes) because while I'm living at sea level, you may be in the Mile-High City (Denver) and that means you need to lean-out the sea-level settings because of the less-dense air at altitude. Like when you balance your carbs, and you're adjusting the air-mix screws on a VMax rack of carbs, to obtain the smoothest and highest idle. If you have 'popping,' at idle, those screws have to be backed-out, but if you find you're at 4-1/2 turns out, you need different jets. That's why the kits come with an assortment. If you're fortunate-enough to have an exhaust gas analyzer, you have the advantage to tune to the proper displayed air/fuel ratio.
Manufacturers set the jetting a bit rich, because that's better for longevity than being too-lean, which can quickly cause a rapid increase in combustion chamber temperatures, and result in melted pistons. Two-stroke tuners are well-aware of this phenomenon. The riders say, "man, I felt it was running really-well, just before it seized!"
If you're in Beaumont TX, you're at essentially sea level, so your settings will be more-rich than someone in the Dakotas or CO.
A 4/1 is designed to work best higher in the rev range, Four-into-twos are better at low and mid-range but not the highest readings obtainable at the top-end. However, a poorly-tuned 4/1 may return lower numbers than a well-tuned 4/2. Where do you spend most of your time riding, 3,000-5,000 RPM or 9,000 RPM? If you like to run at the dragstrip, the 4/1 may be a better choice for you. If you enjoy the thrust and parry of urban riding, you're probably going to be happier with a bit less HP towards redline, and having a broad torque curve in your midrange that can result from a properly-tuned 4/2. That's where most riders spend their time, and you don't have to wait for the bike to 'come-on the cams,' to deliver useable HP.