Stage 7

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Musk

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I stage 7 kit. For a better result would it be better putting a Morley’s muscle kit.
 
They both share most of the same parts, the differance is in the Air box lid-Morley, or pod filters-stage 7. Stage 7 tends to kill your low end, and mid-range some. Depending on your tune and set-up. If using slip-ons or stock exhaust, I'd not bother with either. Maybe some smaller mains. Yamaha had it figured out well for street use just the way it came from the factory.
 
I have not tried a stage 7 but I researched plenty before I went with the Morley kit. I'm going to go ahead and recommend that route 100%, I've been delighted with mine, I removed a Stage 1 kit to go with the Morley kit. After my experience with DJ I'm not sure I would consider another DJ kit if there were solid alternatives.

It's probably a good idea to mention that if your running stock exhaust the gains might not be what you would see with a full exhaust. My bike is stock aside from the Morley kit and a Kerker 4-2-1, and if I got another Vmax today this is exactly how I would set it up again. It was a good step in performance without sucking my wallet dry.
 
The header pipes are custom built . I gave him the idea on how l wanted it.
 
They both share most of the same parts, the differance is in the Air box lid-Morley, or pod filters-stage 7. Stage 7 tends to kill your low end, and mid-range some. Depending on your tune and set-up. If using slip-ons or stock exhaust, I'd not bother with either. Maybe some smaller mains. Yamaha had it figured out well for street use just the way it came from the factory.
I agree just got through putting a dj 7 and took off my slip ons put header with comp baffle and that was the worst waste of money i ever have done on any bike ever all i got out of it was better throttle resp I could have got that just like you said by jetting the stock carbs i need to come ask you next time i make a bonehead move like that again hell i could have bought a new set of tires and made firemedic dance a jig lol
 
Seems like most stock bikes on a Dynojet 250 dyno do something around 105-115 RWHP. Call it an average of 110 RWHP. The Dynojet Stage 7 jet kit and something like a Kerker 4 into 1 are (properly-tuned) good for a 10% improvement, so your low-side stock bike should be 115 RWHP and a good 125 /126 RWHP for a better stock bike. Add something like a 1300 Venture block and you're into the 130's. These bikes are from when you could get a set of full pipes designed for power and a jet kit, and then tune your way to some good improvements. Today's bikes are highly-tuned from the factory and it's harder to extract big #'s above stock without spending lots of $ and having the knowledge to work with fuel injection.

Yamaha's reading is 145 HP at the crankshaft, which was the commonly-accepted method of expressing horsepower. Good luck finding anyone (manufacturer) who gives a RWHP reading. Those come-from the magazines when they put the bike on a dyno, themselves. The kits supply you with a range of jets (carbureted bikes) because while I'm living at sea level, you may be in the Mile-High City (Denver) and that means you need to lean-out the sea-level settings because of the less-dense air at altitude. Like when you balance your carbs, and you're adjusting the air-mix screws on a VMax rack of carbs, to obtain the smoothest and highest idle. If you have 'popping,' at idle, those screws have to be backed-out, but if you find you're at 4-1/2 turns out, you need different jets. That's why the kits come with an assortment. If you're fortunate-enough to have an exhaust gas analyzer, you have the advantage to tune to the proper displayed air/fuel ratio.

Manufacturers set the jetting a bit rich, because that's better for longevity than being too-lean, which can quickly cause a rapid increase in combustion chamber temperatures, and result in melted pistons. Two-stroke tuners are well-aware of this phenomenon. The riders say, "man, I felt it was running really-well, just before it seized!"

If you're in Beaumont TX, you're at essentially sea level, so your settings will be more-rich than someone in the Dakotas or CO.

A 4/1 is designed to work best higher in the rev range, Four-into-twos are better at low and mid-range but not the highest readings obtainable at the top-end. However, a poorly-tuned 4/1 may return lower numbers than a well-tuned 4/2. Where do you spend most of your time riding, 3,000-5,000 RPM or 9,000 RPM? If you like to run at the dragstrip, the 4/1 may be a better choice for you. If you enjoy the thrust and parry of urban riding, you're probably going to be happier with a bit less HP towards redline, and having a broad torque curve in your midrange that can result from a properly-tuned 4/2. That's where most riders spend their time, and you don't have to wait for the bike to 'come-on the cams,' to deliver useable HP.
 
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Your right about all that and it is tuned prop and I spent my childhood on 2-strokes.I just can't justify the spending of that much green for the small increase in throttle resp and I think I may have let my neighbors down now it's just louder and i still take too long to get out of earshot . They were hoping it it would be faster so i could leave quicker!!! lol They just love me when I'm gone. Thanks again for help i was just ragging on the promo staff at yamaha what a job to have hugh I wonder if they have any openings ??? lol But really just tune your stock carbs and leave the dj stuff on the shelf get some jets and pull the plugs till you get it right if you don't have all those fancy tuning gadgets like your local dealer has. but if you just have to throw your money away give it to sean he deserves it for putting up with us!!!!!! he is the stuff and you never have a customer service issue he is always there for ya!!hell i could go on forever but then I would have to join the fan club and they don't have my size t-shirt so screw that !!!!Just know sean a good guy and your best source for vmax anything!! p.s.yea yea i'll get a picture up one day when i figure out how to make this @#$%^&*( phone work lol
 
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