Warped Rotor??? Can I still ride it?

[jon6.0]

So today I put on some used R1 rotors, Hayabusa Calipers, and used Sean's adapters. On one of the rotors it gets a little tough to turn for a little bit. How bad would it be to ride it like that? I need it for getting back and forth to work. It's a 11 mile commute on country roads that I usually go about 75mph on.

Are the rotors left/right specific? I looked at the imprints on them so I know they are facing the right way on the wheel.

 

[KJShover]

So today I put on some used R1 rotors, Hayabusa Calipers, and used Sean's adapters. On one of the rotors it gets a little tough to turn for a little bit. How bad would it be to ride it like that? I need it for getting back and forth to work. It's a 11 mile commute on country roads that I usually go about 75mph on.

Are the rotors left/right specific? I looked at the imprints on them so I know they are facing the right way on the wheel.

Is it warped, or is one of your calipers grabbing too much or not aligned?

 

[4gasem]

You sure it's warped? The rotor buttons can get sticky and cause the same issues... Clean the buttons/rivets with brake clean and a tooth brush and see if that cleans it up a bit... A little graphite on them can help too but VERY little and make sure to keep it off the braking surfaces.

Also make sure the pistons are clean. I use the same method to clean them too.:thumbs up:

 

[jon6.0]

You sure it's warped? The rotor buttons can get sticky and cause the same issues... Clean the buttons/rivets with brake clean and a tooth brush and see if that cleans it up a bit... A little graphite on them can help too but VERY little and make sure to keep it off the braking surfaces.

Also make sure the pistons are clean. I use the same method to clean them too.:thumbs up:

Guess I'll be cleaning some buttons tommorow morning. Do I have to use brake clean or can I use a combo of carb cleaner and maybe throw in some penetrating oil?

 

[jon6.0]

Is it warped, or is one of your calipers grabbing too much or not aligned?

How do I check this? Why would half of the wheel travel be fine and the other half harder?

 

[KJShover]

How do I check this? Why would half of the wheel travel be fine and the other half harder?

To check for warpedness, put the rotor on a piece of glass. for me that is the easiest way. if you don't have one, just hold it up to a window, then check for areas not touching the glass.

 

[4gasem]

Check your buttons... Do they move freely? :whistlin:

 

[jon6.0]

To check for warpedness, put the rotor on a piece of glass. for me that is the easiest way. if you don't have one, just hold it up to a window, then check for areas not touching the glass.

Do you have to take the buttons off to do this? If so, how do you do that?

Check your buttons... Do they move freely? :whistlin:

How do you check them?

 

[KJShover]

Do you have to take the buttons off to do this? If so, how do you do that?

Just remove the rotor completely and then place it against the glass.

Look closely cause the gap might be minimal. I generally use a feeler guage and go around the rotor (or what ever I'm testing) and if I find a gap I increase the size until it wont fit. Then I check the size against the specs. I'd also make sure that there isn't anything wrong with your pads themselves. Make sure one isn't cracked and look for any abnormal wear.
A good rotor normally has to go through quit a bit of shit to get warped.

I don't know how the guy treated that R1, but I'm starting to think there is a reason he got rid of the rotors. I'd still follow Chris' advice. He's more up on brakes then I am.

 

[gleno]

So today I put on some used R1 rotors, Hayabusa Calipers, and used Sean's adapters. On one of the rotors it gets a little tough to turn for a little bit. How bad would it be to ride it like that? I need it for getting back and forth to work. It's a 11 mile commute on country roads that I usually go about 75mph on.

Are the rotors left/right specific? I looked at the imprints on them so I know they are facing the right way on the wheel.

Warped rotors are just plain dangerous.

You may be able to feel the brake lever pulsating if its bad.

It will shorten your effective braking distance and it's most likely to bite that high spot when its wet and bring your front end down :stickyman:

In any case replace the suspect unit.

You can only test for 'flatness' if you have a flat standard to test against.i.e. laying it on another flat surface is fine IF that surface is known to be flat and will not distort. Some glass plate is ok for this but most float glass (usually soda glass) is distorted.

Best way to test disk run out is with a dial-gauge

 

[one2dmax]

it's very hard to test/measure floating rotors with any kind of test since they are made to move back and forth. I would give it a careful test ride and see if you feel the "pulse" as was mentioned earlier.

You managed to get the hole enlarged without any problems I take it? Let me know how good the brakes are after you get a chance to really try them out.

Sean Morley

 

[4gasem]

The buttons should spin and move back and forth easily and not be hard if one is hard and the rest move freely the rotors will feel warped.

 

[jon6.0]

it's very hard to test/measure floating rotors with any kind of test since they are made to move back and forth. I would give it a careful test ride and see if you feel the "pulse" as was mentioned earlier.

You managed to get the hole enlarged without any problems I take it? Let me know how good the brakes are after you get a chance to really try them out.

Sean Morley

Yeah, I just went to Lowe's and bought a drill bit that just barely fit through one of the bigger holes and drilled out that smaller one. Hopefully I can actually ride the thing. I may be hitting you up for those rotors if it is warped. How much you want for them?

Edit:

It seems to be getting better after a 4 mile ride a few minutes ago. Maybe the buttons were gummed up? I'm going to go for another ride in a few minutes to check it out again.

 

[jon6.0]

I figured it out. One of the rotors is oblonged and was hitting inside the caliper. I increased the caliper clearance and everything is good now. This thing stops on a friggin' dime now. The rear brake is almost useless toward the end of coming to a stop. It wants to lock up due to the crazy amount of weight transfer going on.

 

[KJShover]

I figured it out. One of the rotors is oblonged and was hitting inside the caliper. I increased the caliper clearance and everything is good now. This thing stops on a friggin' dime now. The rear brake is almost useless toward the end of coming to a stop. It wants to lock up due to the crazy amount of weight transfer going on.

Sweet, Glad everything is working out. I was looking at your pictures. Talk about a clean install!:clapping:

I have one of my guitars for sale, as soon as it goes I'm upgrading. to the same setup you have. unk:

 

[jon6.0]

Just cruise ebay. I think I have $150 total into the swap. Keeping your stock brake lines keeps cost down and it still stops amazing. I'm not even sure I would want braided lines. Well maybe once the budget allows it. Steering bearings first though.