fullhouse
Well-Known Member
I will be following the advice given about rebuilding the carbs but don't understand how one carb will cause the bike to not start... Isn't that strange?
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Well, if the if the carbs are not getting the right amount of fuel / air mix, then yes it can cause it not to start.. Note: Carb #2 is your MAIN carb, connected directly to the throttle cable / body and vacuum line. (Front left side). If you close the A/F screw too much, you can hear the bike reduce its RPM so much that it almost sounds like it's about to die. If this carb is having fuel delivery problems, along with the others, the bike will not start. Not to mention, you have to have a good spark also.
Dood, take the time to do this. It WILL save you sooo much headache.
Knowing what I now know about the fuel delivery system. Attack your fuel tank 1st.. Even before breaking into your carbs, and even before changing your fuel filter. +1 on NaughtyG comments on the tank. I must have spent, (in hours) at least 2weeks worth of time trying to clean out my tank, only to have the Ethanol pull water out of the air, and re-rust it again.
Finally, I got a spare tank from E-Bay $27.00, and the KBS Tank sealer from Amazon ($40.00 or so). Followed the directions, and it came out GREAT.. Now my filter is spotless, fuel looks like water, (before tank was coated, I would fill up and after 2 days, the fuel started turning yellowish). Cracked open the carbs again to change the jets to stock and noticed that all carbs where spotless inside. ATTACK THAT TANK 1ST..
I wish I listened to the advice on this forum when I 1st posted my carb problems. It would have saved me HUGE amounts of time and some serious $$$.
Knowing what I now know about the fuel delivery system. Attack your fuel tank 1st.. Even before breaking into your carbs, and even before changing your fuel filter. +1 on NaughtyG comments on the tank. I must have spent, (in hours) at least 2weeks worth of time trying to clean out my tank, only to have the Ethanol pull water out of the air, and re-rust it again.
Finally, I got a spare tank from E-Bay $27.00, and the KBS Tank sealer from Amazon ($40.00 or so). Followed the directions, and it came out GREAT.. Now my filter is spotless, fuel looks like water, (before tank was coated, I would fill up and after 2 days, the fuel started turning yellowish). Cracked open the carbs again to change the jets to stock and noticed that all carbs where spotless inside. ATTACK THAT TANK 1ST..
I wish I listened to the advice on this forum when I 1st posted my carb problems. It would have saved me HUGE amounts of time and some serious $$$.
fullhouse
Well-Known Member
Ok thanks again 
This answers my question that one carb can stop the bike from starting.
Will have another look at it this arvo
This answers my question that one carb can stop the bike from starting.
Will have another look at it this arvo
fullhouse
Well-Known Member
Thought I'd check the spark as I can smell fuel when it's been cranked for a bit... Low and behold there is no spark
That'll do it :bang head:
Now to figure out why it’s not getting a spark.
If none of the plugs are sparking, check all connectors coming up from your stator. If they look fine, check the resistance on your coil pickup unit. Mine started acting up when the bike warmed up. It started around 150 ohms and when the bike warmed, it went to zero (Open Circuit). Had to change it out.
With the help of some guys on StarmVmax forum, I was able to iron out that issue. This was before I found this site.. This site has way more Gen1 info.
http://www.starvmax.com/forum/28-help-desk/173491-91-vmx12-question?limit=10&limitstart=0&start=30
fullhouse
Well-Known Member
Well... After taking the side cover and loosening the rear foot rest the check out the coil pick up I moved some wires and thought to myself... What if it was a loose wire... Turned the ignition on and let it cycle, made the sign of the cross to bless the bike (hahaha) and hit the start button! VROOOOM!!!! It lives!! It was loose wires to the pick up that caused the no spark
Amen brother :thumbs up:
Do yourself a favor and pick up some Dielectric grease (Pep boys, AutoZone etc.). Scrape off any corrosion from those connectors and use that grease to keep it working correctly. I use it on every connection I touch, whether it looks OK or not.
Do yourself a favor and pick up some Dielectric grease (Pep boys, AutoZone etc.). Scrape off any corrosion from those connectors and use that grease to keep it working correctly. I use it on every connection I touch, whether it looks OK or not.
fullhouse
Well-Known Member
Yeah I will do!! Don't want this happening again lol
