Weird rear hub squealing

Discussion in 'Drivetrain' started by Eric S., Sep 15, 2019.

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  1. Sep 15, 2019 #1

    Eric S.

    Eric S.

    Eric S.

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    Today my rear tire locked up. Pretty certain it was the rear caliper but I may be wrong. Cleaned it up and flushed it out. This is without bleeding rear caliper and the pads are "free floating" the sound is definitely in the rear hub. Any ideas would be appreciated. Here is the youtube like, and thanks!!!!
     
  2. Sep 15, 2019 #2

    Julian Tomkins

    Julian Tomkins

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    check all of the bearings
     
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  3. Sep 15, 2019 #3

    sdt354

    sdt354

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    Pull the caliper and spin it again, to eliminate the possibility. How much torque on the axle nut? Much less, than what the spec states, is needed.
     
  4. Sep 15, 2019 #4

    Eric S.

    Eric S.

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    I'll have to get the rear end up again. I know that it is not anything to do with the caliper cause it still did it when I had it off too. What will I look for when it comes to bearings? Thanks and what do you recommend as the "correct" torque? Thanks
     
  5. Sep 15, 2019 #5

    Julian Tomkins

    Julian Tomkins

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    the bearings should be smooth running with no resistance, grating, wobble or corrosion,
    also check that no spacers are missing
     
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  6. Sep 15, 2019 #6

    Eric S.

    Eric S.

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    All,
    Thanks for your responses, they are much appreciated. I took the rear tired off and found out that the sealed ball bearing seized up. It left a good size "cut" in the axle/shaft. Should I get a new one along with obviously new bearing? I'm pissed cause these bearings are about 400 miles old. From Dennis Kirk. Is there a break in period for bearings I'm not aware of for high speed applications? Thanks
     
  7. Sep 15, 2019 #7

    Pighuntingpuppy

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    Any damaged components, replace. Why did you replace the bearings to begin with? I would find OEM replacements as they normally should be a lifetime replacement. I rolled my Virago with the original wheel bearings for 100K miles with no problems. I cant see why the Vmax bearings would be any different.

    Another thought....did you have the bearings installed by a 3rd party or did you install them yourself? If you installed yourself, how did you install them?
     
  8. Sep 15, 2019 #8

    Eric S.

    Eric S.

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    When i got my new shinkos put on they said its time for new ones so I bought the set and tapped them in with a rubber mallet and a socket and it went In very smooth and the shaft went right in so I'm pretty damn sure I had those things straight but maybe not, so get OEM instead of the Dennis Kirk ones ? Thanks
     
  9. Sep 16, 2019 #9

    sdt354

    sdt354

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    I use just 30 ft. lbs. Max. on the axle nut. The high spec in the book loads them needlessly. IMO.Timken bearings are good. I wouldn't think Dennis Kirk would sell bearings of poor quality. Make sure the bearings are fully seated. Put them in the freezer the night before install to shrink them some. They'll go in easier. For almost anything you need, Sean Morley will have it. No one ships faster.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2019
  10. Sep 16, 2019 #10

    one2dmax

    one2dmax

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    I do have most of all the typical service parts on hand new OEM and some new aftermarket. I haven't stock the ceramics for the stock wheels yet but debated doing that. They do last quite some time for stock already and as you mentioned they don't need near the amount of torque that the factory applies.
     
  11. Sep 20, 2019 #11

    Radioguylogs

    Radioguylogs

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    Yes, the rear axle nut probably doesn't require the 85ft-lb shown in the manual, especially since it had a cotter pin to keep it in place,... but on the other hand, it won't load the bearings because the spacer prevents the force from squeezing the inner races inward.

    I don't think anybody remarked about a break in period for bearings. The answer is "NO, there is no break-in period". Install the bearings and ride it like you stole it - immediately. Something went wrong with your Dennis Kirk experience.

    I'm sure you peeked inside the needle bearing on the LH side? Mine was rusted and the inner race was pitted from rust. My bike apparently sat in a damp environment or somebody power washed it.

    -Mike Rear Wheel Collar - Small.jpg
     
  12. Sep 20, 2019 #12

    likembikem

    likembikem

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    Just when I thought my bike was in good shape now I am worried about my wheel bearings....add that to the list to do!
     
  13. Sep 21, 2019 #13

    sdt354

    sdt354

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    The cotter pin isn't used on later model gen 1's. A lock nut is used instead. Something to pay attention too in itself. They get boogered after a lot of removals. On early models, ditch the old cotter pin. It's not worth reusing.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2019
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  14. Sep 21, 2019 #14

    sdt354

    sdt354

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