The amp draw is only going to be on the primary side of the coil. It is independant of the secondary side of the coil. The primary side amp draw is based on the input voltage, 12v, and the resistance of the primary coil; COP ~1.5, stock ~ 3. Since the coil is basically a transformer when the ignition interupts the voltage from the primary side it discharges through the secondary side greatly increasing the voltage. Depending on the coil windings this could be, and I am guessing, probably around 30,000-40,000 volts. By ohms law if the voltage goes up then the amperage must go down. So basically we are seeing very very small amperage on the secondary side. So to answer your question, finally, a NR plug will not cause the coil to draw more current. Basically all a resistor type plug does is help supress the Radio Interference from the high voltage discharge. Hope this answers your questions.
Electrical inganeers, please correct me if I am wrong.
Now on to your intermentint miss with the dyna. I had a Dyna until my R/R f*cked up and was putting out 19.5 volts and pretty much fried a lot of shit. Anyways I had a intermintent miss as well. When I went back to my stock ignition it went away. Well this is the only thing I could figure out and once again please correct me if my thinking isnt in the right direction. If you look at the curve for the Dyna
http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct/D3K7-7.pdf
it has a dotted curve for partial throttle that is waaaay more advanced then the factory. For example at 4k rpm stock is 36 degrees. Dyna is 45 degrees. 5k stock is 37 dyna is 47. So basically it is 10 degrees more advanced at partial throttle. I would notice this when I got happy with the throtte. With the dyna the stutter would go away instantly and run like a raped ape. As compared to my stock ignition it runs smooth the whole time but doesnt have the kick to it when I get on it hard. Remember when you view the link above you have to add 10 degrees to their curves to compensate for our vacuum advancer. The way I know this is I called Dyna, they are here in So Cal and asked one of their engineers why their curves are less than our stocker curves. He said I was silly. I emailed him the link to the tech manual on vmaxoutlaw and told him the page number and to compare. He called me back the same day and told me I was the only one to notice that in all the years they had been selling them. He did some research and got back to me. He told me that the paper curves dont include the 10 degrees added by our vacuum advancers but the ignitor does take it into account. Maybe with the extreme advance we are getting some preignition and it might feel like a miss??????:ummm::confused2::ummm:
Cheers
I very much apologize to all for hijacking a great thread with my missing engine issues. I will immediately start a thread so as to redirect the great help I am getting from folks
See the soon to be published "Daves skipping/ popping missing motor problems , the Dark years ."
Maleko89 and RagingMain- thanks SOOO much for the suggestions, will put all this and my answer in the new thread.. . .
Sorry guys
___________________________
I THINK it is the right rear that is the issue. I have a Cobra 4x4 exhaust and that pipe skips, thuds,flubs,pops at idle
it sounded like I was having the same issue as Shuriken was.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=4954
Mleko89:
just ran the bike in the dark, couldn't see anything "jumping" though I am leaning toward a short or plug problem.
- I tried replacing coils, pug wires etc in different combination's
- cleaned every electrical connection I could get to and get apart.
-changed stock ignition to Dyna (stock rev limit, setting 2 on spark)
no change. once in awhile after I have been riding and get off for awhile, it runs GREAT when I get back on it warm.
the issue has been pretty consistent no matter WTF I change electrically.
RagingMain:
OK- so going with an NR plug won't effect the COP, good to go. thanks for the explanation on that.
The Dyna didn't doesn't have an effect + or - on the skip.
Other:
I found a few issues with the carbs as I said in the other thread. the primary one being the RR carb not being completely assembled (see pic) glad I paid $300+ to have them "professionally" rebuilt. I did sync them after fixing the issues. (pic attached)
I believe it is electrical in nature.
:ummm:
thanks guys. . . .
unk:
