Pic of 2007 Damper Rod

Does anybody have a pic of the new style damper rods that are in the 2007 Gen 1's? I know that through the years the shape of the top of the damper has been changed and if what I read is correct, the 2005-2007 damper rods don't have the bolt pattern in the top in which to grab on to.

Hopefully somebody has a picture of what this looks like.

98Redlne said:

Does anybody have a pic of the new style damper rods that are in the 2007 Gen 1's? I know that through the years the shape of the top of the damper has been changed and if what I read is correct, the 2005-2007 damper rods don't have the bolt pattern in the top in which to grab on to.

Hopefully somebody has a picture of what this looks like.

Click to expand...

theres a pic on here somewhere, i'll find it give me a few. however the best way to unscrew the damper rod bolt, is to leave the fork all in one piece and then attach it. pressure should be enough to loosen it, (it was on mine) and when I installed progressives the pressure sure was enough to hold it.

EDIT: here it is:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/faq.php?faq=vmax_tech_faq_1#faq_front_forks

Looking at that thread has me confused.

The picture of the 2005 and later damper rod does not seem to show anywhere that a tool could be inserted that would positively engage, but there seems to be a number of threads that talk about using a 29mm bolt head (43mm fork tubes) to build this damper rod retaining tool.

Does anybody know for sure?

If there aren't any engagement points, I was thinking of making up something like this to try and grab the inside of the damper rod.



When the washer at the top is cranked down, it will compress the rubber bushing at the bottom and hopefully grab the inside wall of the damper rod tight enough to get the allen bolt out of the bottom.

The bolt trick works on earlier forks than what you have. The newer style forks are a bit more of a PIA to tear apart because there is no real good way to grab onto the damper. Release the air from your fork and then try to remove the bolts with an impact wrench, electric or air. Keep the forks together. That has worked for just about anyone who has tried it.

98Redlne said:

Looking at that thread has me confused.

The picture of the 2005 and later damper rod does not seem to show anywhere that a tool could be inserted that would positively engage, but there seems to be a number of threads that talk about using a 29mm bolt head (43mm fork tubes) to build this damper rod retaining tool.

Does anybody know for sure?

If there aren't any engagement points, I was thinking of making up something like this to try and grab the inside of the damper rod.

When the washer at the top is cranked down, it will compress the rubber bushing at the bottom and hopefully grab the inside wall of the damper rod tight enough to get the allen bolt out of the bottom.

Click to expand...

not sure how u'd keep the pressure on the threaded rod? maybe you wouldn't have to

i would try a broom stick with a helper or just re-assemble (maybe with a longer piece of schedule 40 pvc than the spacer to give it more pressure) and try to get the bolt free.

the holder is for the different style damper rods that have a 12 pt pattern on them.

gamorg02 said:

not sure how u'd keep the pressure on the threaded rod? maybe you wouldn't have to

Click to expand...

I am assuming you mean how to keep the rod from turning when wrenching on the allen bolt?

I guess you could put another set of jam nuts on the top and tighten them down enough so putting a wrench on them would keep the threaded rod and the tool from turning

Note: I have never used anything to hold any year vmax fork dampener rod when I have taken them apart. I need to do a fork seal to my 2005 so when I do I will try to make another "Short" video.

Sean

98Redlne said:

I am assuming you mean how to keep the rod from turning when wrenching on the allen bolt?

I guess you could put another set of jam nuts on the top and tighten them down enough so putting a wrench on them would keep the threaded rod and the tool from turning

Click to expand...

have u tried just re-assembling and popping it out with the pressure of the spring?

one2dmax said:

Note: I have never used anything to hold any year vmax fork dampener rod when I have taken them apart. I need to do a fork seal to my 2005 so when I do I will try to make another "Short" video.

Sean

Click to expand...

Sean, say someones damper rod was spinning even with normal pressure, think it might be worth it to put a longer PVC spacer than whats in there to add pressure?

98Redlne said:

Looking at that thread has me confused.

The picture of the 2005 and later damper rod does not seem to show anywhere that a tool could be inserted that would positively engage, but there seems to be a number of threads that talk about using a 29mm bolt head (43mm fork tubes) to build this damper rod retaining tool.

Does anybody know for sure?

If there aren't any engagement points, I was thinking of making up something like this to try and grab the inside of the damper rod.

When the washer at the top is cranked down, it will compress the rubber bushing at the bottom and hopefully grab the inside wall of the damper rod tight enough to get the allen bolt out of the bottom.

Click to expand...

This is a modified long stem plumbers plug and IMO would work just fine....in the event of a spinning damper rod.

Pretty clever, I'd say! :thumbs up:

An essential tool for bottom bolt removal is a good impact wrench, turn it to the fastest reverse setting and give the bolt a good snap....if you use a hand wrench you're prolly going to have trouble, the bolt needs that snap to break it loose, prolly cause of the lock-tite.

I have always used an impact and not by hand. The stubborn ones I just pull or push and burp the throttle on the impact gun. You can even do it while it's completely together. Then take the top nut off and let the spring out at that time.

Sean

one2dmax said:

I have always used an impact and not by hand. The stubborn ones I just pull or push and burp the throttle on the impact gun. You can even do it while it's completely together. Then take the top nut off and let the spring out at that time.

Sean

Click to expand...

How do you re-install the bolt to the damper rod for the late model forks? A video would be great for the disassembly / reassembly of both late and early model forks.

Heretic said:

How do you re-install the bolt to the damper rod for the late model forks? A video would be great for the disassembly / reassembly of both late and early model forks.

Click to expand...

same way it came out. esp with progressive springs more than enough pressure to get the job done.

So it seems like the way to approach this for an 07 front end is to:

1) Leave the forks in the triple trees
2) Bleed the air off
3) Drain the oil
4) Hit the bolt with an impact wrench at the fastest speed (FWD and REV if necessary to break it loose)
5) Disassemble per the remaining instructions.

Reassembly is the same way in reverse order.

Seems fairly straight forward. Actually it seems much easier than trying to make a damper rod tool and hold all of it together while you try and wrench out the bolt manually.

98Redlne said:

So it seems like the way to approach this for an 07 front end is to:

1) Leave the forks in the triple trees
2) Bleed the air off
3) Drain the oil
4) Hit the bolt with an impact wrench at the fastest speed (FWD and REV if necessary to break it loose)
5) Disassemble per the remaining instructions.

Reassembly is the same way in reverse order.

Seems fairly straight forward. Actually it seems much easier than trying to make a damper rod tool and hold all of it together while you try and wrench out the bolt manually.

Click to expand...

you will have to take the forks out of the triples to drain the oil. you shouldn't have to do parts 2-3 to get that bolt loose. once its spinning, when u get it apart just shove a broom handle down there to hold it by hand.

gamorg02 said:

you will have to take the forks out of the triples to drain the oil. you shouldn't have to do parts 2-3 to get that bolt loose. once its spinning, when u get it apart just shove a broom handle down there to hold it by hand.

Click to expand...

I'd recommend doing steps #2 & #3 Garrett.....if you're a little heavy on the trigger of the impact gun (remember, you got it cranked to the highest setting) and end up spinning that bottom bolt all the way out you may get a chest full of pressurized hydraulic fluid!

That actually happened to a guy over this way!! It was ugly!:rofl_200:

That should work Redline, only change is forks need to be removed from the tree to drain the oil. Unless you want to tip the bike upside down!

you can't really drain the oil since there isn't a drain plug like the early forks have. Here's what I do.

1 - Get the front end off the floor and remove the wheel.
2 - remove the air
3 - remove the threaded upper cap (careful as there will be some spring pressure/preload that will make the cap "jump" about an inch.
4 - lift the fork leg up carefully and remove the spacer, washer, and spring.
5 - remove the fork and drain the fluid through the top.
6 - remove the dust seal and retaining clip (wire spring)
7 - re-install the fork into the triple (easier then using a shop vice)
8 - While pulling down on the fork leg, hit the impact in reverse - "burp" the gun and not just hold it on.
9 - when the bolt releases from the dampener the forks will jump down about 4-6 inches. If you don't have any luck and the dampener continues to spin you can re-install the spring, washer, preload spacer, and cap. This will put additional holding pressure to the inner dampener.
10 - You can now yank on the lower leg using it like a slide hammer. This will let the lower separate from the upper. The seal and upper slide will not be loose. Clean everything up and get ready to re-assemble.

11 - A slide driver (and seal driver) can be made using simple schedule 40 pvc tubing from the hardware store.

Maybe in the next couple of weeks I can make the video we need. Maybe even sooner.

Sean

very good directions Sean. I"m surprised you don't have a garbage triple mounted to a bench somewhere for these type jobs! as you noted using the triple is a lot easier than a vice, but my bike was in sub 10? temps so a vice in 65? basement with some rags was my only option, and it does work, but a few extra hands help.

I usually just use my hands to hold it while I take it apart. I have a vice too that we use on occassion.

Sean

Ok, to fire up this old thread with the dreaded new damper!

I just got done working on a set of '07 forks.
One the damper bolt came out great with the normal methods.
The other :bang head:

I got a few turns with the impact and then it came to a sticky spot and it was spin city! It would not come out or go back in.

I tried stacking a few washers for more spring pressure and no dice.
Finally I SQUEEZED in a 27mm socket on top and she came loose!

I attached some other pictures of the setup and it looks like the only tool that would work would be a 3' rod that once in the damper you could push out two nubs to lock into the holes.

If I had more time I would have tried to fab something up.

Anyway I just wanted to pass along what worked for me and post the pics if someone has some spare time to engineer a tool.

tcflint said:

Ok, to fire up this old thread with the dreaded new damper!

I just got done working on a set of '07 forks.
One the damper bolt came out great with the normal methods.
The other :bang head:

I got a few turns with the impact and then it came to a sticky spot and it was spin city! It would not come out or go back in.

I tried stacking a few washers for more spring pressure and no dice.
Finally I SQUEEZED in a 27mm socket on top and she came loose!

I attached some other pictures of the setup and it looks like the only tool that would work would be a 3' rod that once in the damper you could push out two nubs to lock into the holes.

If I had more time I would have tried to fab something up.

Anyway I just wanted to pass along what worked for me and post the pics if someone has some spare time to engineer a tool.

Click to expand...

I just did a front end progressive lowering kit on my friends 2005 for him. I use an impact wrench and they both come right out. For installing them, I just use the back end of a paint roller wooden stick pressed down on the rod to hold it in place and its worked perfect for his and mine. Extra tools not necessary IMHO.