4th & 5th Gear

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MSGU1-4936

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Riding home today and I was having problems getting the bike into 4th and 5th gear, 1-2-3 no problem, but 4th and 5th espically at the higher revs. Any thought or suggestion would be greatly appreciated. I took the casing off and took a look at the plates and discs, I really dont know what to look for, bike has 14000 miles, is an 88, I think those are the original plates and discs


Ron

:confused2:
 
Riding home today and I was having problems getting the bike into 4th and 5th gear, 1-2-3 no problem, but 4th and 5th espically at the higher revs. Any thought or suggestion would be greatly appreciated. I took the casing off and took a look at the plates and discs, I really dont know what to look for, bike has 14000 miles, is an 88, I think those are the original plates and discs


Ron

:confused2:

Did it go into 4th or 5th? if it just goes 1-2-3 then nothing else the culprit is probably a little star shaped piece that holds 5 pins that the internal shifter linkage grabs to shift. chances are one of the pins has fallen out.

If you go 1-2-3 then a difficult 4-5, sorry can't help ya I'm not up to snuff on the max trans.
 
Did it go into 4th or 5th? if it just goes 1-2-3 then nothing else the culprit is a little star shaped piece that holds 5 pins that the internal shifter linkage grabs to shift. chances are one of the pins has fallen out.

If you go 1-2-3 then a difficult 4-5, sorry can't help ya I'm not up to snuff on the max trans.



The bike does go into 4th and 5th gear but with difficulty, more so at the high revs

Thanks,

Ron
 
hmm, is your clutch slipping at all? or does it seem pretty tight. is this a lmid to high rpm problem, or any rpm.
 
hmm, is your clutch slipping at all? or does it seem pretty tight. is this a lmid to high rpm problem, or any rpm.


The clutch daoes have some slipage I think, if you mean that it has poped out of gear when cranking her , yes that has happened to me a few times. On the way home in 3rd, rpms up, and I could not get her into 4th, seems more so at the higher RPM, same with 5th, I could go through all the gears at the lower speed, RPM with little difficulty. Bike was used and abused when I got it, wondering if its time to replace the plates and discs.

I have newer brake fluid as well as new lines replaed a few months ago

I have the Clymer manual, the picture of the clutch housing in the manual has the 2 nipples at the bottom, mine are at the top, does it make a diff

Ron
 
Did it go into 4th or 5th? if it just goes 1-2-3 then nothing else the culprit is probably a little star shaped piece that holds 5 pins that the internal shifter linkage grabs to shift. chances are one of the pins has fallen out.

If you go 1-2-3 then a difficult 4-5, sorry can't help ya I'm not up to snuff on the max trans.


I too think it is the shift segment behind the clutch.Very bad design on the early bikes.There are many threads here already about fixing it and replacing the bad parts with the new design.Not real hard to do or expensive.The biggest thing you will need is and impact wrench to break loose the clutch basket.I can change the segment in less than half an hour.

Do a search here,punch in shift segment.It will also give you the new part numbers.
 

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I too think it is the shift segment behind the clutch.Very bad design on the early bikes.There are many threads here already about fixing it and replacing the bad parts with the new design.Not real hard to do or expensive.The biggest thing you will need is and impact wrench to break loose the clutch basket.I can change the segment in less than half an hour.

Do a search here,punch in shift segment.It will also give you the new part numbers.


Thanks Shawn, I will order the parts tomorroow, can you tell me what the procedure is for removing the segment, do you simply remove the star bolt in the center
 
What exactly am i looking for Shawn, the pins, or the segment / assembly as a whole.

Thanks,

Ron


Look at the pic I posted.You can see the star looking thing is bent all up.This holds the pins in place that the shift shaft pawl pulls on to turn the shift drum.

The new design does away with these stupid parts.And pins falling out.
 
Look at the pic I posted.You can see the star looking thing is bent all up.This holds the pins in place that the shift shaft pawl pulls on to turn the shift drum.

The new design does away with these stupid parts.And pins falling out.


All the retaining pieces/ star are good to go Shawn, the plates are not warped or showing signs of bluing, all the discs are good to go. When I run thru the gears, 1, 2, and 3 no problem 4th and 5th are hit and miss, more so 5th.


Ron
 
That is not good.Sounds like a bent shift fork then.The motor has to come out and then split to get to the tranny.
 
That is not good.Sounds like a bent shift fork then.The motor has to come out and then split to get to the tranny.

Sean,and Shawn, I wondering if you can explain why if it is or sounds like a bent shift fork is it not affecting gears 1-3
Well I'm posted to Nairobi this summer for 2 years and I cannot register the bike due to its age, I guess this could be my 2 year project. :surprise: anything else I can look at that might be the problem.
:hmmm:


Ron
 
Sean,and Shawn, I wondering if you can explain why if it is or sounds like a bent shift fork is it not affecting gears 1-3
Well I'm posted to Nairobi this summer for 2 years and I cannot register the bike due to its age, I guess this could be my 2 year project. :surprise: anything else I can look at that might be the problem.
:hmmm:


Ron

Ron,

There's 3 shift forks in the tranny for gear changes - one can be bent while the others are ok

Mike
 
Check your tranny with the back tire off of the ground.Roll the tire slow while you shift up and down.One time mine cracked the L shaped bracket by the shifter on the left,outside of the engine.It was flexing all over the place and would not let it shift right till I rewelded it. If its none of this It will be the shift fork or shift drum.Good time to back cut the gear dogs.
 
Check your tranny with the back tire off of the ground.Roll the tire slow while you shift up and down.One time mine cracked the L shaped bracket by the shifter on the left,outside of the engine.It was flexing all over the place and would not let it shift right till I rewelded it. If its none of this It will be the shift fork or shift drum.Good time to back cut the gear dogs.

Took a look at the shifter and noticed that the rod that the shifter is connected to that goes to the right side of the bike, there was about quarter inch of play back and forth, so I put the shifter flush and pushed the rod from the right while I thightened the shifter nut, well it seems to shift through the gears now????

:ummm:

Guess I will put her back together with the double d mod since she is apart now, and order the new segment. and give her a go


Ron
 
Shawn, I never really paid any attention to the order I took the plates and discs off, I was measuring for any warped plates, I will be doing the double "D" so I know that I will start off with a disc then a plate, does it follow in that order disc then plate., ending with the special disc, that one is marked! As well the plates have a sharp edge and a dull edge, it states in the manual to make sure they are all the same way, does it make a diff if they go sharp facing out or in.

Ron
 
Shawn, I never really paid any attention to the order I took the plates and discs off, I was measuring for any warped plates, I will be doing the double "D" so I know that I will start off with a disc then a plate, does it follow in that order disc then plate., ending with the special disc, that one is marked! As well the plates have a sharp edge and a dull edge, it states in the manual to make sure they are all the same way, does it make a diff if they go sharp facing out or in.

Ron


I always put them in,sharp side in.How do they look?I bead blasted mine. The clutch plates also have markings(dots) that line up with a dot on the basket.
 
I always put them in,sharp side in.How do they look?I bead blasted mine. The clutch plates also have markings(dots) that line up with a dot on the basket.


The plates have little indents, dots on them, not really sure what a new one looks like so i cant really tell what they should look like. So am I correct on the double "D" full friction disc first, then plate, followed by disc, then plate until complete, them finish off with the special disc .

Ron
 
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