Battery being drained

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It works because you're not connecting both test leads to the positive side.

One test lead goes to the positive on the battery. The other lead goes on the wires that would usually connect to the positive side. As they are now disconnected, they effectively become the negative, as they are connected through all the wiring to the other side of the battery - the negative!

With the key turned off you should see 0 Volt - there isn't supposed to be any contact. When you turn the key on, contact is made and it should read about 12 Volts. If there's a reading with the key off, something's wrong and a drain is occurring.

Makes more sense now?

Thanks, I'll buy that explaination. It's always good to understand the method behind the madness.

 

[88Vmax]

Well seeing as his problem was close to mine till idid the load test, positive side off DMM at battery and cable
(key on) 12.20
(key off) 12.16

Pulled a fuse at a time nothing...

moving on to the red wire behind the left side cover my the tank
key on 12.20
key off .013- and slowly went to .007

the 3 white wire plug. this was next to the red wire plug (very corroded i may add)
key on 12.20
key off 12.16 so no change


the fuse box next to battery with 2 fuses. removed the one and
key on and off .003

Ithe starter switch (this was about an hour later so battery slowly draining)
key on 12.04
key off 11.57

WTF

any other testing i can do or is this enough for a diagnosis?

 

[88Vmax]

oh and i think charging was at 11.97 at 3k rpms

 

[Buster Hymen]

oh and i think charging was at 11.97 at 3k rpms

That is not a charging voltage. It should be around 13.5v . It sounds like your battery is never getting properly charged, not that there is a battery drain.

 

[88Vmax]

so what could be the cause

 

[one2dmax]

Bad regulator, bad stator, bad or broken wire, corrosion on wiring connectors (under left side cover), ect.

Sean

 

[88Vmax]

im fixing the crimped wire now. and the 3 white wire connector is corroded as hell. doing that to. should i be at 13.5 at 3k rpm

 

[one2dmax]

You want it to be around 13.0-14.0 volts but ideal is 13.5 (much more then that and you risk overcharging the battery and ruining it).

Sean

 

[88Vmax]

ok. my last test and its going elsewhere. I fixed all connectors and splices. Now the red wire and3white wires comming from the R/R. i tested them and heres what i found.
1 white wire has 11-12v
1 has .102
other has .073
and of course the red has the 12v

should all of these be at 12volts or not?

 

[Buster Hymen]

ok. my last test and its going elsewhere. I fixed all connectors and splices. Now the red wire and3white wires comming from the R/R. i tested them and heres what i found.
1 white wire has 11-12v
1 has .102
other has .073
and of course the red has the 12v

should all of these be at 12volts or not?

The 3 white wires are from your stator and is providing AC (not DC) voltage to your R\R. If I remember right, you should get a reading of about 30 to 40 volts AC.
You should have your multimeter on the AC setting and the bike would have to be running.
Your bike is an 88 and the stock R/R didn't come with a ground. It grounds through the plate it is mounted on. This has been a problem in the past with charging issue. See my post here (about gas tank removal) http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=9885 where you can see the "post" that is the ground path for the R/R. Once you get the charging system running properly, you will have solved your battery problems.

 

[88Vmax]

I will do that tonight when i get home. now when i testeed the r/r i had the hot wire plugged in and the 3 wires were on the r/r side not the stator. (and yes they were unplugged). so y was i getting different readings. shouldt they have all 3 been 12v or 0?

 

[Buster Hymen]

The 3 white wires only carry AC voltage to the R/R. That is converted to DC and fed to the battery from the other 2 wires. If you test for DC on a line suppling AC, you are going to get erroneous readings.

 

[88Vmax]

ok. unplugged my stator and checked it. i ran it about 3k rpms. 2 wires were getting 38.9vac and i had just one that was getting 7.5vac. so does this tell me its my stator?

Should i have had my dmm on VAC or just regular AC? cause i just rememberd it was on VAC

 

[88Vmax]

also checked the ohms on my r/r and all 3 were .45 is this a good sign?