Bike creeps forward and stalls with clutch in.

[kvb34441]

The other day, I hopped on my 94 vmax to go out for a ride. Started it, let it warm up, pulled the clutch in and dropped it into 1st...... stall. Whenever I have the fully clutch pulled in, it just creeps forward as if I was riding the clutch. I changed the fluid in the master cylinder and bled it, and that didn't help. I don't know where to go from here so any help or input would be really appreciated.

 

[Fire-medic]

Look for a wet spot underneath the bike in front of the left swingarm pivot, roughly under the footpeg, your slave cylinder is probably leaking. Rebuild/replace, completley change the fluid.

 

[KSRider12]

I had the same issue. I rebuilt both master and slave clutch cylinders. The parts are relatively cheap and while you're doing one, might as well do the other 'cause you're going to have to sooner or later anyway. I'm a big believer in PM now, not roadside repair later.

 

[sdt354]

Not getting total disengagement happens for different reasons. I've had my clutch disk stick before. And it took my front tire up against a tree and letting the clutch out a few times to get release. But like mentioned, it can be hydraulic related as well as mechanical.

 

[Fire-medic]

Not getting total disengagement happens for different reasons. I've had my clutch disk stick before. And it took my front tire up against a tree and letting the clutch out a few times to get release. But like mentioned, it can be hydraulic related as well as mechanical.

I've never had that happen with a stock clutch, on a VMax bike that's being ridden. I have had that happen continuously with a Barnett clutch, on a Kawasaki Mach III (The Widowmaker) but I've always used OEM friction discs on my VMax'es.

 

[kvb34441]

I've never had that happen with a stock clutch, on a VMax bike that's being ridden. I have had that happen continuously with a Barnett clutch, on a Kawasaki Mach III (The Widowmaker)) but I've always used OEM friction discs on my VMax'es.

Ok that may explain it, the guy I bought it from installed a Barnett clutch a couple months back.

 

[Fire-medic]

If you add your location under your screen name, you may find help from a local-to-you forum member.

Do you store your bike inside? Put a piece of paper beneath the engine and see if you're leaking fluid. The centerstand will help you to see easily where the leakage is.

 

[kvb34441]

I'll try that tonight, if I see hydraulic fluid, that means it would be the slave cylinder right?

 

[Radioguylogs]

Actually there is brake fluid (DOT 3/4) in the hydraulic clutch system.

 

[kvb34441]

Actually there is brake fluid (DOT 3/4) in the hydraulic clutch system.

I know, just said that for simplicity’s sake.

 

[kvb34441]

I’m assuming brake fluid did this?

 

[user 16790]

certainly looks like it

 

[kvb34441]

so it's the slave cylinder I suppose.

 

[Screwloose]

Had the same. Slave cylinder was half full of crap. Stripped and fitted new kit, and works great now.

 

[kvb34441]

Not getting total disengagement happens for different reasons. I've had my clutch disk stick before. And it took my front tire up against a tree and letting the clutch out a few times to get release. But like mentioned, it can be hydraulic related as well as mechanical.

Had the same. Slave cylinder was half full of crap. Stripped and fitted new kit, and works great now.

any tips or things I should watch out for in particular when rebuilding?

 

[Screwloose]

Rebuilding: when bleeding the system i left the slave cylinder slightly slack and forced the air back up the to the master cylinder. I just could not get it bled from the master cylinder alone. Seems to be a small air pocket in the slave cylinder that needs a nudge. Good news is that i also pulled the clutch out and the friction disks were on the bottom limit, rebuilt and everything ok.

 

[Fire-medic]

Remember to use the 'search' function on-here, you will find things like this:
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/
Follow the directions for a 'reverse-bleed' which will be the easiest way to quickly provide you with a firm lever. I have > 1 Mity-Vac, which is how I used-to bleed the brakes and hydraulic clutches on bikes I own, now, it's a syringe and backwards-pressure from the bleeder nipple. Be careful about spraying fluid where you don't want it! I recommend a hose clamp on the 1/4" I.D. clear plastic hose, to minimize leaking brake fluid.

I recommend DOT 4 brake fluid, the boiling point is higher than DOT 3, it's probably available in your supermarket aisle where they have oil and anti-freeze, and windshield washer fluid. How-easy can you get?

The 'reverse-bleed' eliminates issues like Gearloose (above) posted. Another way to minimize the trapped air is to pre-fill the slave cylinder before bolting it in-place. Remember, bubbles rise/float to the top, so introducing brake fluid at the lowest point in the system is going to cause any residual air to move towards the master cyl. When the tiny little bubbles stop coming-out of the small hole you should be ready to button things up and pump the brake or clutch lever a few times.

 

[sdt354]

I've never had that happen with a stock clutch, on a VMax bike that's being ridden. I have had that happen continuously with a Barnett clutch, on a Kawasaki Mach III (The Widowmaker) but I've always used OEM friction discs on my VMax'es.

Running DD, so it goes with the benefit of extra clamping pressure. Now with the spring upgrades available, the DD isn't a necessity anymore.

 

[kvb34441]

Thank all of you for your help! I rebuilt my slave cylinder today and the problem is fixed, bike shifts silky smooth.