Caliper piston popped out

[ZackDaniels]

Yeah that's pretty well the same thing for street. Which is to give yourself extra room and ride with extra caution until the bed-in is completed. However long that takes.

Bedding in Procedures with for Street use.
Worn discs or rotors dramatically extend bed in time and will reduce brake effect severely until pads bedded in. Ride SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY after installing new brakes until you are satisfied brakes are performing to your total satisfaction.

If you're a proper hooligan you can find a nice quite road and accelerate the whole process by using the road race guideline.

To bed in brakes with new rotors, undertake this in a practice session and allow 20 medium speed "snubs" at 10 second intervals scrubbing off speed from 90 MPH to 60 MPH followed by 10 snubs taking speed from 110 MPH to 60 MPH again with 10 second intervals.

I live in a highly urbanized area... even on expressways at 3am there's still enough traffic to make me not want to do that. What they don't seem to say is after following a process like that and heating both the rotors and pads up that much that quickly you want to go for a long cool down ride... if you park directly after while everything is cooking supposedly it can result in a big glob of pad baking onto the rotor and making for a very uneven surface.

 

[Redbone]

I read on the FJR forum that while breaking in brakes is to use the controlled stops but to make sure not to come to a complete stop to avoid transferring the pads heat into the rotor possibly causing rotor issues.
Here is the post link: http://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=18175

 

[Bullet223]

Fire Medic, do you know the proper torque settings for the bridge bolts? They are not in the manual.

 

[Fire-medic]

yeah, it says, Never loosen the bridge bolts on the caliper!

Well, I have totally disassembled Brembos and also Yamaha's bridge bolts and made sure to reinstall the o rings in their cavities. I'm not gonna be able to give you a torque spec for a bolt the factory says, "don't remove."

Let's think about some other fastener, on some other part of the bike. For an M10 X 1.25 thread, they say 32 ft/lb for the brake caliper to bracket connection. look in the back of the manual, just ahead of the lubrication diagrams, and there is a torque spec page, that's where I got this from.

If you decide to split the caliper halves, it might be worthwhile to use a drop or two of red locktite, bear in mind the factory says, "don't split the calipers." I have done it multiple times, I use brake spray cleaner to make sure all mating surfaces are very clean, including the o-ring on the passageway between them, and then I reassemble them using several rounds of tightening to gradually bring them to the final value. This will help to prevent warpage due to tightening one bolt too-much.

The old MG-TC and TD if you tightened their wheels without sequentially and progressively tightening them, would warp the brake drums, causing their brakes to not perform adequately. Remembering a spirited ride in my oldest brother's Jaguar XK-120 to a speed nearly-matching the model #, the braking on its drum brakes wasn't really adequate for those speeds. Later models got among the first disc brakes on cars. I think the Crosley was the first 'production' car to get disc brakes, but how many Crosley's have you ever seen? And that was on their factory hotrod, the "Hotshot."

Fire Medic, do you know the proper torque settings for the bridge bolts? They are not in the manual.