Clutch Master Cylinder kit or assy needed?

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Mauidan

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I attempted to change out my worn clutch lever and got a unexpected surprise.
Removed the lever and the bushing separated from the pushrod, the pushrod popped out.
I don't even know how this was still functioning, it had to be on one of its last shifts!

So much for the 15 minute lever change I was expecting..
Can you tell me if a Clutch Master Cylinder Kit will get er' done or is the Master assy normally required?


Pushrod Bushing.jpg


Master.jpg
Boot torn.....

ckit.JPG
 

Mauidan

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Yep, they are pretty cheap, got one coming.

Do you have any tips on replacing the fluid/bleeding? Thanks
 

Fire-medic

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Yep, they are pretty cheap, got one coming.

Do you have any tips on replacing the fluid/bleeding? Thanks
See post #27
 

Mauidan

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I saw a video of bleeding the system at the top bolt (at the master) with lots of towels, just took a few minutes.
Is that not doable on this 2nd gen?
 

Fire-medic

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I saw a video of bleeding the system at the top bolt (at the master) with lots of towels, just took a few minutes.
Is that not doable on this 2nd gen?
Pissing corrosive brake fluid all-over your expensive bike and wiping it up with paper towels is like using plastic wrap as a condom. The potential end results of both are not-good. Neither is the clean-up.

One-way valves, 'speed-bleeders,' a MityVac tool, or a syringe to reverse-bleed the system as I showed are far-better ways to do this.
 

Mauidan

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10-4 ~ Cant argue with any of that.
Appreciate it.
 

V-Four

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Pissing corrosive brake fluid all-over your expensive bike and wiping it up with paper towels is like using plastic wrap as a condom. The potential end results of both are not-good. Neither is the clean-up.

Oh Boy... :oops: 🤦‍♂️

I got some calls to make..

🤣

T$
 

kingmel

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I saw a video of bleeding the system at the top bolt (at the master) with lots of towels, just took a few minutes.
Is that not doable on this 2nd gen?

I tried both way.

Syringe and reverse bleed will give you best result and much faster; because if you remove master sylinder, you must bleed out some fluid from hose so it not go to your bike.
After you install new master cylinder and fill up master sylinder you will have some air in hose.

If you reverse bleed, you press in fluid from slave sylinder and all air will go up and out.

If you try to press all air down with clutch lever and bleed out down with slave sylinder, it take longer time.

I change both master and slave sylinder and it was so easy to fill up system with new fluid without any air with reverse bleed.

I hang up syringe with nylon thread, fill syringe slowly with fluid so no air in plastic hose. Press my finger easy on hose so if there is any air it will go up in syringe and out.
Then open bleed bolt and press slowly fluid up to master cylinder.

When you change fluid, you use another syringe to suck fluid out from master sylinder, but don't suck all out because then you will get air around the valve in bottom of master cylinder again. If you have some fluid on bottom you are safe there will be no air in system.

All you need is a syringe, some plastic hose, fluid and plastic to cover your bike.
I buy some very thin plastic to cover my bike and use some tape around master cylinder, so all bike was safe. (Same thin plastic people use to cover furniture when they paint inside house.)
 

Fire-medic

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Sure, there are several ways to move the fluid, but as I've mentioned, "bubbles rise," and if you fill the slave cyl with brake fluid, and then use a ~60ml (1 ml = 1 cc) syringe through the slave cyl bleeder, you end-up pushing up and out of the system, any air. Big bubbles emerge into the master cyl (front brake or clutch master cyl) and then as most of the air is purged, you get (cue the Don Ho music) "tiny little bubbles." I call 'em 'fizzies,' after a popular 1960's summer drink where you dropped a tablet into water and they fizzed-away, adding carbonated flavor to your glass of water, colored and flavored according to the tablet used.
Fizzies.png

VMax clutch bleed.02 - Copy.jpg

In this picture with the geyser of erupting brake fluid, you can see four large groups of 'fizzies,' clusters of those tiny little bubbles, forced out of the hydraulic line as you reverse-bleed. Once you get the geyser of brake fluid as-shown, fill the reservoir to at-least the halfway-point on the reservoir window, install the cap, and then fan rapidly the lever a few times, and you should feel the resistance. You're good to-go. Of course, you always want to test things for proper operation before you head-out on the highway, so take a trip around the block, or up and down the street, to ensure that you are done.
 
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Mauidan

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Sure, there are several ways to move the fluid, but as I've mentioned, "bubbles rise," and if you fill the slave cyl with brake fluid, and then use a ~60ml (1 ml = 1 cc) syringe through the slave cyl bleeder, you end-up pushing up and out of the system, any air. Big bubbles emerge into the master cyl (front brake or clutch master cyl) and then as most of the air is purged, you get (cue the Don Ho music) "tiny little bubbles." I call 'em 'fizzies,' after a popular 1960's summer drink where you dropped a tablet into water and they fizzed-away, adding carbonated flavor to your glass of water, colored and flavored according to the tablet used.
View attachment 78730

View attachment 78731

In this picture with the geyser of erupting brake fluid, you can see four large groups of 'fizzies,' clusters of those tiny little bubbles, forced out of the hydraulic line as you reverse-bleed. Once you get the geyser of brake fluid as-shown, fill the reservoir to at-least the halfway-point on the reservoir window, install the cap, and then fan rapidly the lever a few times, and you should feel the resistance. You're good to-go. Of course, you always want to test things for proper operation before you head-out on the highway, so take a trip around the block, or up and down the street, to ensure that you are done.
Pretty entertaining dude! I ordered a Mityvac.
Funny thing is, I'm old enough to remember Fizzies, I’m probably still suffering side effects from the chemtrails they left in me.
And by the way, I live on Maui, I heard "Tiny Bubbles" more than I'll admit to (RIP ~ Don Ho) -- Mahalo
 

ShawnD

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I don't think you need to do anything other than put the pushrod back in place. That rubber piece holding it in place isn't what seals the master cylinder...that's in the bore. Assuming there is no brake fluid leaking, you certainly don't need to rebuild the master cylinder with #2 on your fiche.
 

ShawnD

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You definitely need a syringe...not sure why they put such a small reservoir on this bike. I'd get someone to help keep an eye on the master cylinder while using the mityvac. It will empty very quick.
 
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Fire-medic

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You definitely need a syringe...not sure why they push such a small reservoir on this bike. I'd get someone to help keep an eye on the master cylinder while using the mityvac. It will empty very quick.
Another reason why I like to perform the reverse-bleed, no-need to re-fill the master cylinder. You just need to ensure that when the fluid starts entering the master cyl reservoir that it doesn't overflow. By the time it's filled up, any air should be purged from the system.
 

Mauidan

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Just a thanks to those who helped out. Mityvac made the job easy. Changed front and rear brake fluid as well. Changed oil and filter, topped off coolant.. Think I'm good for a minute..
 

Dean-uk

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Just read this old thread and I'm in the same boat. I've taken apart my master cylinder and the rubber washer that was on the pushrod is knakered.
None of the rebuild kits I've seen online contain this, so what do I do
 

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