The sidestand ignition cutout switch sometimes gets 'sticky,' meaning the shaft will not move as it's supposed to, Some 5-56, WD-40, or another lubricant, sprayed on the shaft of the switch at its point where the shaft is fully-extended, and then a bit of "the old in & out" as Alex the Droogie said in
A Clockwork Orange, should restore normal function, and should be added to your beginning of the riding season annual maintenance.
Any VMax sitting for months probably needs a carb removal, and cleaning. The pilot jets are notorious for easily becoming plugged, because their passage is so-small. You have to remove the jet block to access the pilot jet, in each carb.
Look at your gas tank, if you have
any corrosion visible, you need to clean the corrosion. Use a coffee filter to drain your float bowls into, to see if you have any particulate material. Also see if you have any water, it's very-obvious if there is any, the water will resemble a 'lens' of heavier liquid on the bottom of the receptacle into-which you drain the carb float bowl. Use an empty receptacle for each carb draining.
As-to popping the carbs off, use of a long pry bar, from the opposite side of the bike for its purchase point on the frame, and carefully locating the shaft onto the underside of the carb bank, and using upward pressure, should pop one side free, repeat in the opposite position. With one side free, you should be able to manually remove the carbs. Actually, one corner pulled-loose should allow enough 'purchse' to remove the carbs. Be
very careful where you place the bar to-pry, as the metal the carburetors are made-of is not-strong, and prying in the wrong place, like the narrow edge of a carburetor bellmouth will probably cause it to-break! Some carb bodies are no-longer available as OEM replacement parts from Yamaha.
There is a pvc cap used in plumbing for sink drains, which is a perfect fit to block-off the VBoost manifold. It will fit into those rubber boots on-top of the VBoost which just gave you a struggle. The caps are used for temporary blocking-off plumbing work to prevent anything dropping into them, and for testing lines. These work much-better than a contaminated, dirty shop rag! At $0.41 US apiece (you need four, of-course) you can afford them.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1...VWPfjBx2VNgrgEAQYBSABEgL_J_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
When you get ready to replace the carburetor bank of four, try this, it works very-well, it's quick, and it's something you can
feel in the seat of your pants, a time-honored metric of performance adopted by shade-tree mechanics the world-over. With the bike on its centerstand, I straddle the bike and sit on the airbox and carb ass'y. You can usually feel them 'pop' down into position. A bit of water-soluble grease on the boots helps too. Make-sure things are lined-up before you do it. Easy-peasy.
. With the use of a hair dryer and some prying the carbs are out. Even managed to find the small steel tube that sits on the bolt for the clamps as when I removed the bolts, it dropped down on to the engine - I wasn't aware of it but it is a damn good idea to prevent overtightening. Actually when I removed that bolt 2 days ago, it was held by the screwdriver (magnetised) and disappeared into the bike. After 1/2 hour of searching, I found it had dropped into the bracket holding the overflow pipes.
