I am in over my head with radials installation

Discussion in 'VBoost Room' started by mundmc, Mar 21, 2020.

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  1. Mar 21, 2020 #1

    mundmc

    mundmc

    mundmc

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    Hi all, hope everybody’s safe,
    It’s been a while. I finally tried to put my 18” wheels on that I purchased from a forum member some rime back. Per him, they came off a vmax. The rear is an Avon Am23 180/55.

    The first big problem- the tire hits the drive shaft. The second big problem- the rear brake calipers don’t really fit without putting a lot of pressure on the disc.

    Any thoughts on where to start here??? I’ve read up a bit, but I know just little enough to go down a very wrong path.

    My thanks in advance
    Mun
     
  2. Mar 21, 2020 #2

    Fire-medic

    Fire-medic

    Fire-medic

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    Vmax rear 5.5 X 17_01.jpg
    You can try re-positioning the rear axle washer to get a bit-more tire clearance.

    https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/rear-wheel-axle-washer-swap-fit-wider-tires.35953/

    You need how-much clearance on the tire? Do the washer swap first, and see how-much (if-any) additional room you need. If it's just-barely 'kissing' the driveshaft, at a narrow point of contact, perhaps a touch of sanding of the tire will clearance it sufficiently. I'm not telling you to sand an inch-wide band, down-to the tire cords. Probably a better choice is to mark where the interference is, and to determine how-much space you need-to gain. A bit of heat and some persuasion with a ball pein hammer (yes, you're going to have to repaint the swingarm where you heated it) should gain you whatever space you need.

    I think most people on-here who have gone to an 18" rear wheel/tire haven't had that issue. I have a machinist make 5-1/2" X 18" rear wheels to use the stock splined hub, and I haven't had an interference problem with 170 or 180 mm width-tires, in a 55-series aspect-ratio. How-wide is your rim inside the tire flanges? If it's 6" I suspect you will have an interference without clearancing your driveshaft/swingarm.

    About your rear caliper, you have an opposed-piston caliper, one of them. I think your post is just a typo: "...my calipers...". You may have a sticking piston or pistons, probably due-to corrosion on the caliper body and the pistons. The pistons should never be 'tight' on the rotor, unless you have pedal pressure on them. Probably time for a disassembly and cleaning of the rear caliper, a flush of the rear master cylinder, brake line, and caliper, and replacement onto the bike.

    I am considering another possibility. You may-have put pressure on the rear brake pedal, while the caliper was off the rotor, and now the pistons are too-far together. You need-to push them apart, so the caliper can easily slip-into place. Then you tighten the bolts and the axle nut, and pump the rear brake pedal a few times to move the pushed-out pistons inwards towards the brake rotor. If you don't, the first time that you try to-use the rear brake pedal, it will bottom-out against the stop, with no braking, and if you don't have time to pump the rear brake pedal enough to restore your pistons to being just-off your rotor, no brakes!

    I recommend doing a 'reverse-bleed' for your rear brake. It's much-quicker, and more-effective for removing any air in your brake system. You can use the same technique on both f & r brakes, and the hydraulic clutch. No-need to tie-wrap any lever (clutch, brake) or pedal (rear brake) in the hopes that air bubbles will rise-to the master cylinder, because you won't have any bubbles in either the f & r brakes or the hydraulic clutch, if you properly-perform the reverse-bleed.

    https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/reverse-bleeding-clutch.47305/#post-472105
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2020
  3. Mar 21, 2020 #3

    mundmc

    mundmc

    mundmc

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    Hey Fire Medic, long time!

    I know of the “Furber fix,” I’ll look into the rear axel washer- i THINK i know the washer you are talking about, and I have seen this referenced on the boards.
     
  4. Mar 21, 2020 #4

    mundmc

    mundmc

    mundmc

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    Whoah i only saw a little bit of your original response- thanks for the thoughtful post! Fun fact- you referred me to the seller in July of 2017!

    Just to be clear- I think I move the washer from (between the caliper bracket and the swing arm) to (between the, uh, wheel hub and final drive housing)? Can you tell I’m new at this?
     
  5. Mar 21, 2020 #5

    mabdcmb@yahoo.com

    mabdcmb@yahoo.com

    mabdcmb@yahoo.com

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    Yes, put washer between splines on wheel and differential
     
  6. Mar 21, 2020 #6

    mundmc

    mundmc

    mundmc

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    Awesome, thanks so much!
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2020
  7. Mar 23, 2020 at 11:57 AM #7

    Itgoes

    Itgoes

    Itgoes

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    Checked our your post and just realized you purchased those wheels from me. After much searching I found some photos that show the wheel on the bike. I hope they help! It looks like maybe there is only one thin washer used on the right side. there is not a real clear shot of the left side unfortunately.


    can.jpg plate rear.jpg rear wheel.jpg shock.jpg

    Good luck!
     
  8. Mar 23, 2020 at 12:05 PM #8

    mundmc

    mundmc

    mundmc

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    Hey! Thanks so much for these! I had no doubt this was working out at some point, and you included extra washers which i already put to use on the front wheel.

    Interestingly enough, it looks like the swappable-washer is in the stock position here. I’ll report back in after swapping it.
     

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