Issues after flash.

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Eric Levitz

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Hi guys.
So I recently put on a starrider 4 in to 2 exaust, nash flash ecu, airbox mod with k and n air filter.
I am noticing 2 issues.
I am having a bit of lag and flat feeling in my throttle . This is only under slight throttle opening or if I am just holding it open at a modest level.
If I am at w.o.t it goes , no problem.... although at times it feels like it should have a bit more power or that the power is showing up later than it should. I can clarify this later.
The second issue is that I am getting some backfire on decell.. from what I can hear it is only on the left side. I get it bad going down hill, but in general all the time.

Ais is not plugged, but disabled.
Airbox mod was done with a bracket, not with airbox lid. Although tim said this should not be a problem.

Any help or insight would be great.
Thank you all!!
 
I'm inclined to first think air leak on the exhaust, maybe leaning it out (must be a lot) and making it flat and deccel backfire.

Certainly not consistent with a good flash. Hard as it will be to find. do you know anybody you can swap ECU's with just to be sure?
 
I'm inclined to first think air leak on the exhaust, maybe leaning it out (must be a lot) and making it flat and deccel backfire.

Certainly not consistent with a good flash. Hard as it will be to find. do you know anybody you can swap ECU's with just to be sure?

I have an extra ecu.... it is not flashed tho, its stock . What do you think ?
 
I'd try it. Not going to hurt much of anything. Would have been better to use your flashed ECU on another bike.

AIS is plugged?
 
I’m repeating myself from other thread, but sync throttle bodies, if you havent already done it yet.
Ok, I will do tmro. Just a quesion, the " standard " screw that i am not supposed to touch .... and suposedly has white paint... may be different on each bike? . I dont see any white paint on any of my sync screws. Kindof afraid to take a gamble as the are 3 warnings in the document I have for the job.
Thanks in advance.
 
I had paint on two screws 😄 If you just check it and theres no need to adjust, you’re fine. I’m not 100% sure which screw is this standard screw, but I think it is right front if you are sitting on bike. Someone can confirm this or correct?
 
So update .. sorry for the delay.
The throttle bodies were perfectly in sync. Did not have to adjust. Someone sugested i put new coils. I have them but have not tried that yet.... thinking of having them put in woth new plugs when I get my valves checked... I have 50km on the bike .... so frustrating.. and the backfire is a bit worse.
 
I’m repeating myself from other thread, but sync throttle bodies, if you havent already done it yet.
dude do you know how to remove the air box and stacks to get underneath its a pain in the arse i wish someone could give step by step instructions on how to cause the manual doesn't show you how.......
 
Hi guys.
So I recently put on a starrider 4 in to 2 exaust, nash flash ecu, airbox mod with k and n air filter.
I am noticing 2 issues.
I am having a bit of lag and flat feeling in my throttle . This is only under slight throttle opening or if I am just holding it open at a modest level.
If I am at w.o.t it goes , no problem.... although at times it feels like it should have a bit more power or that the power is showing up later than it should. I can clarify this later.
The second issue is that I am getting some backfire on decell.. from what I can hear it is only on the left side. I get it bad going down hill, but in general all the time.

Ais is not plugged, but disabled.
Airbox mod was done with a bracket, not with airbox lid. Although tim said this should not be a problem.

Any help or insight would be great.
Thank you all!!
only issue i am having after the flash is the cold start, have to hit starter 2 for about 3 seconds for it to start, and i called tim nash and he told me that is an issue with the flash but he said if you have a pc 5 you can adjust that for starting. its really not a problem but an issue never the less......
 
dude do you know how to remove the air box and stacks to get underneath its a pain in the arse i wish someone could give step by step instructions on how to cause the manual doesn't show you how.......
You dont have to remove nothing else but the rubber plugs from where the meters hoses goes. So four plugs, easy with long tip pliers. plenty of room, 15 min job including warm up etc.
 
The stock bike normally has to crank a number of seconds before it starts. Always bugged me compared to other fuel injected vehicles or even the gen 1 carb'd that starts almost immediately most of the time.
 
I had paint on two screws 😄 If you just check it and theres no need to adjust, you’re fine. I’m not 100% sure which screw is this standard screw, but I think it is right front if you are sitting on bike. Someone can confirm this or correct?

Service manual states not to use a rear cylinder as the standard. Also, the standard varies bike to bike...my 2011 was different than my 2020. Pick the painted screw from either front cylinders...and hope that they both don't have paint. I don't know what to tell you then.
 
Tim's description of his reflash says throttle response is slightly softer just off idle, makes it a bit more manageable. I noticed that after the reflash on my 2011.
 
only issue i am having after the flash is the cold start, have to hit starter 2 for about 3 seconds for it to start, and i called tim nash and he told me that is an issue with the flash but he said if you have a pc 5 you can adjust that for starting. its really not a problem but an issue never the less......

I wouldn't call it an issue. My first vmax never failed to start, even in the dead of winter. It's a gen2 Vmax quirk...but not an issue ;)
 
My gen 2 did it new and after the Nash flash. Would be interested if there is a fix? All the gens 2 that I see do it…it’s a normal engineering defect. This is my number one complaint on my gen 2. If it is hot… like pull off for fuel, it will start up normal. First spin of the crank.
 
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