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Parts Wanted Looking for COPs setup

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Denci

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2020
Messages
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Location
Las Vegas, NV
Hey guys I am looking for a set of COPs, My bike is a 1998 so my understanding is I don't need to run resisters.
If anyone has a set please let me know. Also I would prefer Denso over Mitsubishi.
I have a slight stumble when I punch it. It doesn't happen if I am just rolling on the throttle just when I try to punch it regardless of speed or gear the stumble is the same.
I have checked the fuel delivery for any issues and can not find anything. I am pulling about 14.1v on the charge system so that seems fine that is why I am suspecting the coils.
They all ohm out with in spec but the two front ones have significant cracking on them. Instead of replacing I thought I would just go with the COPs setup.
So if any of you guys have a set please let me know. thanks!!!
 
If you check under "cracked ignition coils" in the threads, you will find that the coils' cracks usually are only cosmetic. In other words, they don't affect the operation. The #1 advantage to COP's is a quick, easy swap-out if one does go bad.

COP's on their own do not add power to a VMax, on a properly-operating bike. If you want a better ignition, go for DYNA green coils of the proper ohm rating, and a DYNA 3000 ignition box, or an Ignitech ignition box. Both have rev limiters, which will help your engine live longer. The OEM box has no such rev-limiter. I suggest new NGK spark plug caps, and good wires, you can buy good spark plug wires by the foot at a good auto supply store. Buy wire with the same O.D. as the stock wires so the 'olives' on the wires fit snugly on the wires where they insert/rest at the high-tension towers of your ignition coils. The 'olives' are oval grommets that the screw cap has to keep the high-tension wires tight in the ignition coil towers.

As to 'I don't need resistors,' anecdotal evidence says the analog CDI box (1985-'89) seems to be more-susceptible to issues developing than the 1990-2007 digital ignition system, when using COP's.

As to the hesitation on acceleration, I'd synch the carbs well, and tune the air pilot screws properly, for highest RPM. Gas filters are cheap, replace it. Look inside the gas tank with a powerful light source, and ensure that you have no gunk or rust on the floor of the gas tank.

VMax pilot screw pkg.jpg
 
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If you check under "cracked ignition coils" in the threads, you will find that the coils' cracks usually are only cosmetic. In other words, they don't affect the operation. The #1 advantage to COP's is a quick, easy swap-out if one does go bad.

COP's on their own do not add power to a VMax, on a properly-operating bike. If you want a better ignition, go for DYNA green coils of the proper ohm rating, and a DYNA 3000 ignition box, or an Ignitech ignition box. Both have rev limiters, which will help your engine live longer. The OEM box has no such rev-limiter. I suggest new NGK spark plug caps, and good wires, you can buy good spark plug wires by the foot at a good auto supply store. Buy wire with the same O.D. as the stock wires so the 'olives' on the wires fit snugly on the wires where they insert/rest at the high-tension towers of your ignition coils. The 'olives' are oval grommets that the screw cap has to keep the high-tension wires tight in the ignition coil towers.

As to 'I don't need resistors,' anecdotal evidence says the analog CDI box (1985-'89) seems to be more-susceptible to issues developing than the 1990-2007 digital ignition system, when using COP's.

As to the hesitation on acceleration, I'd synch the carbs well, and tune the air pilot screws properly, for highest RPM. Gas filters are cheap, replace it. Look inside the gas tank with a powerful light source, and ensure that you have no gunk or rust on the floor of the gas tank.

View attachment 83683
Hey thanks for all the advice but like I said I have gone through the fuel delivery system, I should have stated I went through every aspect of it.
First I checked the filter by the way i have a duel filter setup and no it does not impede the flow rate of fuel to my carbs. they were both clean and are made to replace the internal filter. My tank is squeaky clean the lines are not deteriorated. The carbs are synced that checked out .New spark plugs were done a couple of months ago as I was hunting for the issue which by the way has been going on for about a year. The plugs I took out were in good shape and only had about 1500 miles on them anyway. The plug wires are also fairly new, when i installed them is when I noticed the cracked front coils so instead of replacing them with oem I thought i would switch to the COPs. So I am still looking for a set and I guess if I can't find any I would just make my own. I just am having a problem finding the right connectors as I don't want to change the factory ones if I don't have to. Once again I do apreciate your advice as it is sound just like all the advice and help i have gotten on this forum.
 
If COP's is what you desire, I bought a set for $135 and really don't need them now after reading Fire-medic's advice. I will let you have them for $100 plus shipping to your location and they are new unused. I have similar issues with my 2000. After reading Fire-medic's troubleshooting advice I believe my issue is rust in the tank which translates to carb issues. I have kept up with fuel filter changes but let's face it micro particles get through the filters but not the carb. Bike runs reasonably well it just has a hesitation when snapping the throttle and when it's hot an idle is set to spec has a drop in rpm every 15-20 seconds. Set idle to 1200 and the issue goes away.
 
If COP's is what you desire, I bought a set for $135 and really don't need them now after reading Fire-medic's advice. I will let you have them for $100 plus shipping to your location and they are new unused. I have similar issues with my 2000. After reading Fire-medic's troubleshooting advice I believe my issue is rust in the tank which translates to carb issues. I have kept up with fuel filter changes but let's face it micro particles get through the filters but not the carb. Bike runs reasonably well it just has a hesitation when snapping the throttle and when it's hot an idle is set to spec has a drop in rpm every 15-20 seconds. Set idle to 1200 and the issue goes away.
Yeah I know what you mean with particles getting into the carbs, That's why I run two filters. Once I got the system clean I wanted it to stay that way. Every few months I run my endoscope into my tank to check it's condition.
I will take the COPs off your hands, if you want to check shipping I am in las vegas,nv zip code is 89123
I will PM you with my details and you can let me know your preferred payment method.
 
Yeah I know what you mean with particles getting into the carbs, That's why I run two filters. Once I got the system clean I wanted it to stay that way. Every few months I run my endoscope into my tank to check it's condition.
I will take the COPs off your hands, if you want to check shipping I am in las vegas,nv zip code is 89123
I will PM you with my details and you can let me know your preferred payment method.

Here is a pic of what you are receiving. They had instructions as follows:
1985-2007 Yamaha Vmax Cops. 4 Cops and 4 Wires all are new.
These will plug into the existing clips that are already on your stock coils.
They will certainly add reliability too. Quicker starts and cures hot starts.
You can leave your old coils on your bike and just plug these right in their place. Cops, clips and couplings are new.
You will notice there are two longer wires-these will go in the front and will need to cross to plug into their connectors-as you remove your old wires and coils you will notice that the left front wire go to the right front cylinder and vice versa.
 

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I have a slight stumble when I punch it. It doesn't happen if I am just rolling on the throttle just when I try to punch it regardless of speed or gear the stumble is the same.
That has nothing to do with your ignition. That has to do with fuel delivery.

The reason it stumbles when you punch it is the engine is literally running out of gas. When you open the throttle the butterflies open wide instantly letting in a ton of air. If you're not getting proper fuel flow the engine will starve, stalling a bit, until the vacuum helps the gas flow catch up.

That's why it doesn't do it when you roll on the throttle - the vacuum is able to keep the gas flowing and there's no need for an initial big dose of gas.
 
That has nothing to do with your ignition. That has to do with fuel delivery.

The reason it stumbles when you punch it is the engine is literally running out of gas. When you open the throttle the butterflies open wide instantly letting in a ton of air. If you're not getting proper fuel flow the engine will starve, stalling a bit, until the vacuum helps the gas flow catch up.

That's why it doesn't do it when you roll on the throttle - the vacuum is able to keep the gas flowing and there's no need for an initial big dose of gas.
I posted that I checked the entire fuel delivery system and I checked every facet of the fuel system, I couldn't find any issues. I checked, tank,lines,filter,fuel pressure and flow rate and I could'nt find any vacuum issues which was what I thought it might be originally, also it only does under load. PARMINIO if you have any other ideas I would love to hear them I am completely stumped on this one. Also I am mostly doing the COPs conversion because my front coils have cracks in them so I just decided to change it over since I am going to be in there and it is a pain in the ass to take the front coils out . I really appreciate everyone's advice I will definitely revisit the fuel system when I put in the COPs.
 
Here is a pic of what you are receiving. They had instructions as follows:
1985-2007 Yamaha Vmax Cops. 4 Cops and 4 Wires all are new.
These will plug into the existing clips that are already on your stock coils.
They will certainly add reliability too. Quicker starts and cures hot starts.
You can leave your old coils on your bike and just plug these right in their place. Cops, clips and couplings are new.
You will notice there are two longer wires-these will go in the front and will need to cross to plug into their connectors-as you remove your old wires and coils you will notice that the left front wire go to the right front cylinder and vice versa.
Awesome thanks!!
 
And if you ever find yourself in a lake, drop the ballast. It'll help you float.

There will be no floating w/the OEM coils in place, of that I can assure you haha!

The fronts (IIRC) are finicky to pull but their not inconsiderable heft had me remove them for OCD reasons if nothing else. IMHO that job could be easier with an actual quality JIS screwdriver instead of a phillips. Oh, and Scottish profanity helps counter rusted fasteners for those that were not fully aware.
 
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Here is a pic of what you are receiving. They had instructions as follows:
1985-2007 Yamaha Vmax Cops. 4 Cops and 4 Wires all are new.
These will plug into the existing clips that are already on your stock coils.
They will certainly add reliability too. Quicker starts and cures hot starts.
You can leave your old coils on your bike and just plug these right in their place. Cops, clips and couplings are new.
You will notice there are two longer wires-these will go in the front and will need to cross to plug into their connectors-as you remove your old wires and coils you will notice that the left front wire go to the right front cylinder and vice versa.
Hello, I’m looking for a part number for cops, could you please provide the model # of the cops you purchased.
thank you
 
I’ll have these in my 1992. It need also wires w. resistors
 

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I've got these
 

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