Looking to buy a beat up Vmax

[Scaredpickle]

Hi! Pretty new to the forum, but so much great info on here! I'm in the market for a Vmax currently. Looking for one that needs some love. Not looking for a mint condition beauty. Looking more for a neglected, rusted, torn seat kinda ride. I'm in north CA and if anyone hears of a Vmax like this let me know.

 

[desert_max]

Welcome and good luck with your search. I have now and have had over the years a variety of motorcycles. Most of the time, clunkers can be found - especially if you're patient. However, the Vmax is one that doesnt often get reduced into such a sorry state. They are out there, but most are reasonably well loved.

 

[Fire-medic]

Apart from crash damage, probably the #1 expensive problem to be aware of is worn dogs on 2nd gear. Under hard throttle, the bike will pop-out of gear. Engine out of the frame, cases split to fix, at-least one gearset, and since it's open, the shift drum and shift forks, assuming you're keeping it. If you cannot do this work yourself, the cost at a reputable shop will unfortunately exceed the value of the bike in most cases, since the bike probably has a bunch of parts replacement it needs: tires, brake pads; bleeding and rebuilding of the master cylinders (rebuilt or replaced), a good battery, carburetors rebuilt; fork seals replacement, or replacement of fork downtubes because of rust; steering head bearings, seat covers, etc. You get the picture. Fortunately, pretty-much everything is still available new or used.

I wouldn't pay-over parts-bike prices for anything which wouldn't start and run, with a demonstration of 2nd gear being intact. It has to have a title, too, it costs too-much to get a title for a bike without one, after checking the insurance company registry and the NCIC computer system for stolen bikes.

Pay $1800 for a bike, "it just needs a new battery," and come to find-out, the carbs need disassembly, cleaning, and rebuilding, and once it's able to start, you discover 2nd gear is bad, to begin, plus the parts named above, due to being used-up and not maintained. Good luck finding a Yamaha dealer even willing to do that case-split repair, because the owners often abandon the bike once they get that $2,000+ bill. If you have skills to fix a bad 2nd gear, your options are increased.

My non-runner top-price is about $500, depending upon the condition of the bike overall and its accessories. A disassembled, roached-out bike, < 1/2 of that.

I once answered an ad for a "V-4 Yamaha", he wasn't asking much for it, but when I saw the bike it was debatable if I would take it, if he gave-it to me! It was stored outside, the carbs were off, and there were mosquito larvae in the standing water which filled the intake runners. No paperwork with it. He was losing his storage space, it had to-go, but he was adamant that it had value. Not to-me! I kept my eye on the storage yard, and one day I saw a roll-off dumpster and a big front-end loader scrapping everything in the yard.

Here's a good thread to read: New Vmax Owner FAQs....new members please read!

 

[Parminio]

Apart from crash damage, probably the #1 expensive problem to be aware of is worn dogs on 2nd gear. Under hard throttle, the bike will pop-out of gear. Engine out of the frame, cases split to fix, at-least one gearset, and since it's open, the shift drum and shift forks, assuming you're keeping it. If you cannot do this work yourself, the cost at a reputable shop will unfortunately exceed the value of the bike in most cases, since the bike probably has a bunch of parts replacement it needs: tires, brake pads; bleeding and rebuilding of the master cylinders (rebuilt or replaced), a good battery, carburetors rebuilt; fork seals replacement, or replacement of fork downtubes because of rust; steering head bearings, seat covers, etc. You get the picture. Fortunately, pretty-much everything is still available new or used.

I wouldn't pay-over parts-bike prices for anything which wouldn't start and run, with a demonstration of 2nd gear being intact. It has to have a title, too, it costs too-much to get a title for a bike without one, after checking the insurance company registry and the NCIC computer system for stolen bikes.

Pay $1800 for a bike, "it just needs a new battery," and come to find-out, the carbs need disassembly, cleaning, and rebuilding, and once it's able to start, you discover 2nd gear is bad, to begin, plus the parts named above, due to being used-up and not maintained. Good luck finding a Yamaha dealer even willing to do that case-split repair, because the owners often abandon the bike once they get that $2,000+ bill. If you have skills to fix a bad 2nd gear, your options are increased.

My non-runner top-price is about $500, depending upon the condition of the bike overall and its accessories. A disassembled, roached-out bike, < 1/2 of that.

I once answered an ad for a "V-4 Yamaha", he wasn't asking much for it, but when I saw the bike it was debatable if I would take it, if he gave-it to me! It was stored outside, the carbs were off, and there were mosquito larvae in the standing water which filled the intake runners. No paperwork with it. He was losing his storage space, it had to-go, but he was adamant that it had value. Not to-me! I kept my eye on the storage yard, and one day I saw a roll-off dumpster and a big front-end loader scrapping everything in the yard.

Here's a good thread to read: New Vmax Owner FAQs....new members please read!

That's good advice.

A friend of mine did exactly that. We rode all the way to North Carolina to look at a Vmax he found on the internet. Guy wanted 1600 for it. It was complete trash. No front brakes, rattling exhaust, carb's spitting, forks trashed.

I told him I wouldn't give the guy 400 dollars for it because it needs way too much work. He still gave the guy 1200 dollars for it.



He sank another 800 into it. I did the carbs and brakes for him. He still needed new coils, a new fuel pump and more.

He parked it and bought a new M109R about 5 months ago. Over 2000 dollars sank into a boat anchor. It's just not worth it. Buy one running and go from there.

 

[Fire-medic]

That's good advice.

A friend of mine did exactly that. We rode all the way to North Carolina to look at a Vmax he found on the internet. Guy wanted 1600 for it. It was complete trash. No front brakes, rattling exhaust, carb's spitting, forks trashed.

I told him I wouldn't give the guy 400 dollars for it because it needs way too much work. He still gave the guy 1200 dollars for it.



He sank another 800 into it. I did the carbs and brakes for him. He still needed new coils, a new fuel pump and more.

He parked it and bought a new M109R about 5 months ago. Over 2000 dollars sank into a boat anchor. It's just not worth it. Buy one running and go from there.

My opinion of your friend is, "not too-good at making decisions involving mechanical things." I would've told him, "listen to what I'm saying: if you insist on buying this, I'm not going to work on it for-you!" At least he would know he's going to have-to lay-out more $$ on it, and that could sway his decision. Hey, I'll buy it-for $300! You should make him a deal, you have him buy what's left, for the needed parts, and you get the thing running so he can sell it, and you swear that you won't bring it up again, what a stupid decision he made, in a moment of illogical "passion-mechanical." At-least for a week.

 

[sdt354]

Do consider fixing up a clunker can cost as much or more than buying a nice ride with sensible mods already done. Plus the labor involved. Seats, wheels, suspension, etc. $$

 

[Bullies74]

Definitely not the type of motorcycle to purchase as a clunker.

Purchased my 94 for a fair price just about two years ago.

37k on the odometer, second owner garage kept.

Bikes in very good condition for a 26 year old running machine.

After six months or so of riding, had to rebuild the carbs, replace valve cover gaskets, install fork seals and install new neck bearings.

Fortunately Im able do the work myself, as many on this site can.

If you can hold out, purchase a 93 or newer. If you research long enough, you can find a well taken care of machine for a reasonable price.

 

[Fire-medic]

For me, it's about condition. I don't care if it's a 1985 or a 2007. Not really, well, maybe (see below)! What I mean is that a maintained bike with no issues mechanically is a better starting point than a beat-upon, not well-maintained, 'needs-work' pig-in-a-poke non-runner which has a bad connecting rod engine, and a blown second gear, which you cannot know-of unless the owner reveals it. Of course, until it's running, or is proven to not-be capable of running, and being ridden, (or not) you aren't going to know about things like a bad second gear (flipper or owner says, "I bought it like this, it's for sale, "as-is."). That's why a prudent purchase of a non-runner has to look at it as being a roller chassis with a bad engine/transmission, suitable for parts, or needing an engine swap. Paying anything like an operational, demonstrated good functional condition price, for a non-runner is a sucker's bet. As I've mentioned in some rare circumstances, the extras may provide a bit-more of a price bump beyond the 'non-runner' status; each case needs to be evaluated in that context.

I'm also not gonna spend a bunch of my time with the seller, getting a sitting for ? (days, months, years) bike to fire-up, only to have the seller tell me, "hey, the price it was being sold-for was because it didn't run, now that it runs, I want $1,000 more!" About as-far as I'm willing to-go on a non-runner in-front of the seller, is to see if the engine turns-over freely. My purchase offer is made upon that result. If I can't get the engine to spin freely, or if it won't spin at-all, I might remove the crankshaft cover and try the crankshaft bolt to see if it turns-over because the starter for whatever reason, would-not spin the engine.

I've looked at bikes, made an honest offer, and been turned-down, only to be called-back later, because they cannot sell the bike. Should I choose to go back at the invite of the seller ("I've decided to accept your offer") I'm gonna go through the same evaluation I did-before. To the consternation of the seller, my returning offer is always going to be lower than the one I made originally. I can always find a litany of additional reasons for that, for a non-runner. Take-it, or leave-it. I bring a trailer and ramps. Rarely does that trailer return home, empty.

Being a long-time owner, about the only bikes having an iota of additional value, are first year and anniversary (2005) models. Maybe the last 2007 model sold... . Again, condition is everything. The premium for those specific bikes is minimal, to-me. Now, if you have a Tourmaster 1500 cc PCW build, or something Sean Morley built, or Larry Fitzgerald at LCR Performance built, yes, those engines have value probably above the entire rest of the bike! Of course there are other builders, but those guys are the ones I'm familiar with, with-whom I've done business with, and whose work is worth something, my opinion.

 

[Pighuntingpuppy]

I paid $2000 for my 2007 last year April. Sent it to the dealer for carb work and valve adjust just cause I didnt want to do it. Spent another $1000 on that. Ive done brakes, tires, fork seals, fluids, and spark plugs. If I wanted to, I could reasonably get $3500-$4000 for mine cause it is in great condition. Dirty....but great condition at the moment. Beater bikes simply arent worth it if you are a person who values your time. If your time is worthless.....well, disregard my message, LOL. Just as others have stated here....spring a little bit more for a runner. They are out there.

 

[Scaredpickle]

Wow thanks for all of the info, this has changed my perspective a lot. I can do most of this work myself but dumping that much money into one instead of finding a runner doesn't sound like a good time to me. I'm in no rush so I'll keep searching and see if I can find a decent deal somewhere.

Thanks again!

 

[Parminio]

I keep my '07 immaculate. It has only one blemish: there's a small spot on the engine casing next to the rear brake lever where my boot has rubbed through the paint.

That's it. Other than that, you can still eat off the bottom of the engine. It's never spent a single night outdoors.

 

[sdt354]

For me, the cheap clunker is a parts bike. I did grab one for $500 a few years ago. Corbon seat, stage 7 carbs, Kerker pipe. And all the little things we need eventually. I'd like to find 10 more like it. My ride is nothing special but the investment is substantial anyway. If I ever sold it, someone would be saving a lot of money on mods. I'm going out and kiss it now.

 

[CaptainKyle]

I buy a lot of Clunkers but most I part out Like the other guys said you are better off buying a running one

 

[Klwallace69]

Southern Oregon one, for a pretty good price:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/320450325739482/

 

[Fire-medic]

Southern Oregon one, for a pretty good price:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/320450325739482/

If this bike runs OK and shifts through 2nd gear OK, this is a decent bike at a better than average price. Any transmission issues, and it drops a minimum of $1500. End of story.

It's<300 miles to check this out. If this is a runner, needing ordinary consumables, it doesn't jump-out of 2nd gear w/a handful of throttle, it doesn't overheat, and it easily-starts after a 'hot-soak,' buy it. Even if it needs aesthetics (cosmetic refurbishment) this is about as good a deal as you're likely to encounter.

 

[user 16790]

I usually buy something for too much money so I don't have to spend any more money on it, then I spend another £1000 + just to keep the price down

 

[Scaredpickle]

If this bike runs OK and shifts through 2nd gear OK, this is a decent bike at a better than average price. Any transmission issues, and it drops a minimum of $1500. End of story.

It's<300 miles to check this out. If this is a runner, needing ordinary consumables, it doesn't jump-out of 2nd gear w/a handful of throttle, it doesn't overheat, and it easily-starts after a 'hot-soak,' buy it. Even if it needs aesthetics (cosmetic refurbishment) this is about as good a deal as you're likely to encounter.

l

I was second in line and the guy sold it to the first in line. Going to look at an 03 today that's close by. Only 5k miles on it. Gonna give it a test ride and see what kinda price they are willing to accept. Listed at $4400.

 

[Fire-medic]

Looks pretty-clean and low miles, if he wants to sell it $4K cash should do it. It should have no issues starting, or re-starting. If you can't ride it before the purchase, have him demonstrate running it up in 1st, & have him shift to 2nd, & continue to accelerate hard. You want to-see if 2nd gear is gonna jump-out. If he won't do that, or it jumps-out of gear, it just lost $2,000 in value, I don't know a Yamaha dealer who would remove the engine, split the cases, and fix 2nd gear, for < $2,000.

 

[Scaredpickle]

Looks pretty-clean and low miles, if he wants to sell it $4K cash should do it. It should have no issues starting, or re-starting. If you can't ride it before the purchase, have him demonstrate running it up in 1st, & have him shift to 2nd, & continue to accelerate hard. You want to-see if 2nd gear is gonna jump-out. If he won't do that, or it jumps-out of gear, it just lost $2,000 in value, I don't know a Yamaha dealer who would remove the engine, split the cases, and fix 2nd gear, for < $2,000.

Test drive went well. Cold before it started. 2nd gear felt great (little tire slip with the shift) an it restarted great after the ride. They accepted 4200 so I'm gonna go down monday and ride it home. I didn't want to like it as much as I did but these bikes are pretty amazing. Felt great in corners and the power is pretty amazing. Gonna have a lot of fun with this bike. Thanks again for all the advice on everything.

On a side note I'm headed out on a strike team tomorrow afternoon to the north complex fire so I'll have to enjoy it when I get back.

 

[Fire-medic]

Sounds like a fair-deal. Change-out all the fluids, if the master cyl's are the color of ginger ale, you could defer that, but if any are opaque, 'change-time!' Despite what the prior owner told you, assume you're gonna keep this for years, that means, "change all fluids." That way, you're starting from a known point of maintenance. Keep it stock, learn to use it within your limits of riding skills, and start to make a 'wish-list' of changes you think would benefit you.

One I'll suggest, check the air in the forks. The air in the forks IS-NOT LIKE A (even) 700C BICYCLE TIRE! It takes very-little air to fill the downtubes with air! Leaving the air chuck from your compressor on there even 3 seconds could blow-out your fork seals! Having the proper air in the forks will make a huge difference in the performance of the forks.

Going to Race-Tech fork springs or Progressive Suspension fork springs is a frequent upgrade, after that, RICOR or Race-Tech Gold Valve Cartridge Fork Emulators, and a fork brace will make the front end feel much-more secure.
https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/...9yBuPVo2Rg6g11BzJCUkSFWaPqaR_rJ4aAl4GEALw_wcB
Change one thing at a time, and you can better evaluate the change in handling or performance.