Low Power

[Lally]

I was driving my bike one day and out of nowhere smoke comes up from the regulator and the main fuse blows. I removed the old one and replaced it with a new. I am only getting 1.2 volts from the new could the stator be bad even though its getting 30-50 volts ac and 42 ohms out of it. So confused and frustrated.

Lally

 

[MaxMidnight]

Suggest you work your way through this.

 

[Lally]

the stator was removed today and 2 wires were melted together and the stator was junked new one already ordered

 

[Lally]

:ummm:OK stator and rectifer replaced still only getting 1.58 volts very confused need help.:bang head::ummm::bang head:

 

[Miles Long]

:ummm:OK stator and rectifer replaced still only getting 1.58 volts very confused need help.:bang head::ummm::bang head:

Are you measuring the 1.58 volts across the battery terminals, or at another location?
Assuming that your stator and RR are now working properly, the first item to check would be 3-pin connector, from the stator to the RR (all white wires) This connection is notorious for failing on the V max, and other bikes. Many people cut it out completely, soldering the connections permanently. Others use three insulated bullet connectors. Since it is A.C. current at this point, you don't have to worry about the arrangement of the connections....any wire to any wire is just fine.
If this is not the problem, check the red wire (positive)connector coming from the RR to the wiring harness, for corrosion and conductivity. If you follow the same red wire further upstream, you will come to the infamous "crimp " connection, where it connects to the red main fuse wire. Many people solder this connection, to improve charging capability.
Following the same wire further, check both of the main fuse connections, as well as the fuse itself. Last but not least, check your battery post connections for tightness and corrosion and the negative wire ground connection for same.
Cheers!

 

[Lally]

negitive term to regulator output

 

[Lally]

Great news that stator from electrosport is awesome 75v at 5000 rpms cant beat that, r/r sucks butt. I am going to do the r/r mod outline in http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=2463 just without the stage 7 kit.

 

[Lally]

heres a quick vid on testing your charging system
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivOML54j1_s&feature=player_embedded#!

 

[Miles Long]

(QUOTE=Miles Long) Are you measuring the 1.58 volts across the battery terminals, or at another location?

negative term to regulator output

Charging voltage is determined by measuring across the battery terminals.
I measured the RR output once as you did, and got a similar voltage as you (around 1.5) This was with a good stator and RR.
Try measuring across the battery. You should see a minimum of 13.5 volts or so at idle, and up to 14.8 at 5000 rpm, if your new stator and RR are doing their thing.
I squeezed another 1/2 volt out of my system by piggybacking both the negative and positive output wires from the RR.....the extra black going to a good ground next to the middle gear, the extra red going directly to the positive post of the battery (this wire has a 30 amp in-line fuse incorporated). A few years ago, I had done the "crimp" mod, but voltage increase was only marginal.
With the dual wire arrangement, my battery now shows 14.8 volts at around 2000 rpm.
Cheers!