Milan Dragway Test and Tune

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I installed new baffle's and my bike's noise level is alot better but with more back pressure i thought it would have better low end and it feels like it has less low end:confused2:. In second gear it dont pull like it did before. The bike runs great and the carbs have been sniffed at each pipe coming of the motor so i dont think i can get my bottom end any better than that. carbs are set at 13.0 at idle. and dyno showed 12 to 13 at mid to top so i dont think i should play with my carbs. I have my dyna 3000 set at curv 3 so maybe i should play with that. also my v-boost is pluged in and i have stage 7 so maybe i should unplug it :confused2:.

Put your Dyna on curve one, it makes the most power.. If you've got a stage 7 and a Kerker then you really do need the comp baffle (2.5") to make it work right... Also you shouldn't be nowhere near 13:1 A/F at idle, mine is like 18:1 or something... I'm pretty hard to miss being a big guy on a yellow Max so look for me and I'll take a peek at it and see what we can do.... My friends 12 won't be as bad as that dragbike but his doesn't look like anything radical (it isn't really) but he's been 9.70's at 141 and some change so its fast...

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Family emergency just came up so I will not be there tomorrow.. Stay cool out there guys, heat indexes over 100 and an ozone warning for that area so its gonna be nasty...

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Hey all sorry Im going to miss this one, there is a car/ bike / truck show in Muskeegon that I'm going to. I think in the next 6-8 weeks we should plan an ALL-MAX DAY at a track. The weather will be cooler and we should see better times. I hope everyone has a great day with everyone making it home safe on their own accord. Keep the sunny side up everyone.....
Steve
 
I dont know what to think about this. Todd can drag race. I know its only 1/2 a second but i kicked his ass bad out of the hole. His mile per hour is higher. Anyhow we had a great time and i plan on drag racing with him again next week if he gets his drive shaft fixed in time. I will let him tell you about his great day. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsItiVJ0qqw&feature=youtu.be
 
I dont know what to think about this. Todd can drag race. I know its only 1/2 a second but i kicked his ass bad out of the hole. His mile per hour is higher. Anyhow we had a great time and i plan on drag racing with him again next week if he gets his drive shaft fixed in time. I will let him tell you about his great day. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsItiVJ0qqw&feature=youtu.be

Damn, he broke another one???

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Damn, he broke another one???

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Yes damn it !

I ran 11.38 against Mike a couple times and I knew it would run faster. So I made a few more passes. A couple really bad passes and then I ran a short string of 11.30's. I found I have to launch at a lower rpm. 4000 rpm for me works. Higher up and the bike either lofts the front end or I slip the clutch and lose major 60 ft time.

Next run 11.29 @ 120.99 mph. On the return road I thought " I am done, I got my 11.20 range, but my next thought..... maybe I can hit a 11.10 area !" Well that was my mistake. The next pass I am assuming I broke the driveshaft again.

These bikes just can't take a beating like my old GSXR could.

So I am really starting to think a Gen 2 or a Busa is going to be my choice. I love my Gen 1. But I will not have a bike that breaks every time I go to the track. Thats silly.

So I am not sure what I am going to do at this point. I may give up my 10's goal for this bike. I just can't see babying this thing out of the hole, or soft shifting this thing. A HD driveshaft will only lead to broken trans parts or a cracked case from a mid gear explosion.

Needless to say I am happy, but not happy with today.

I am just not sure if I went with a Gen 2 if I would be looking at broken parts as well.

The next bike WILL be a 9 second bike. I may keep the Gen 1 and just go to a Busa for the track. That would be the most cost effective way to go. Heck I could probably sell my Gen 1 and almost find a stock Busa someplace if I looked hard enough...:ummm:

Todd
 
Well it looks like I missed a great time, but at least my bike is still in one piece! Sorry to hear about your bike breaking, that TOTALY SUCKS!!!! I am with you Todd, our bikes are fun in town bikes but I never thought they could handle the abuse of the track and certainly not the fastest bikes there. I fell in love with the 2012 ZX1400 at the bike show today, they are more unique than a Busa and just as fast. Talk with you all soon and glad everyone had a Safe day riding. Has anyone thought about the ST. Johns ride next weekend? Hit me up
 
The new 14 is faster than a Busa by a decent margin. You need an airshifter brother, not saying you won't break any parts with one but I've only ever broke one in two seasons of racing. These bikes are a labor of love because they sure as shit aren't cheap to build but your not gonna run 9's without big bucks and you can do that easy with a Busa or a 14 but then your just like everyone else... It's not an easy road because if it was then everyone would be cool ;)

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If I continue back into racing its more about consistency and reliability. Which the reason you don't see any Vmax's as serious racers, is because they just aren't competitive enough. Yes you can find one here and there. And I am sure you can find a 9 second Gen 1. But I guarantee that it cost more then triple or more then it would to season a Busa or ZX14, or possibly even a Gen 2 Max.

Believe me I love the looks of the Gen 1, but honestly I am not going to spend $15,000 to get it to be a low 10 second machine with flirting high occassional 9's ( if thats a feasible # ).

I am just curious about chain drive..... maybe the slack in the chain would take better shock, or am I going to skip the driveshaft breakage and go into breaking transmissions.

Busa's and ZX14's where strictly designed for balls out beatings, from day one. With only more and more upgrades availabel for them to make them more reliable. Obviously if I want a 7 second turbo Busa I would spend big money.

I think I can probably dick with this bike a little more, crack a 10 and call it good and just street ride it with an occasional track day.

Regulating this to a street bike only would definitely save the breakage, because your sure not going to hook like you do at the track and I think that is the problem, it hooks at the track. People don't break parts on the street because tires spin and the traction isn't there. However slight it is ( tire spin ) on the , its still there whether you notice it or not. And that ever so slight slippage is what is saving your parts.

Been there and done that with my street race cars. Never broke anything on the street, take it to the track , hook up and I broke just about every part you can imagine.

Todd
 
As for being different and people being surprised, the SV1000 I raced a few times was an easy kill for me. His best time against me was .2x slower et, his mph was faster ( 122+ ). He said he was pretty amazed at how fast it was.

So it was pretty cool to be on a non sport bike close to sport bike territory.

Todd
 
Did you break it on a shift again? The only one I ever broke was on the street on the 1-2 shift and its the shock from a full throttle shift that's breaking them and not traction... That's why I was saying to go to an air shifter but to run the times you want your right just get a Busa...

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I think we figured I am at 235 ish with gear. So your only about 50 ish lbs more then me.

Yes it was at 1-2 shift. So obviously my shift technique is causing too much shock and breakage.

But on the street the tire spins for me. Not much, but enough that when I go back I can see clean cement or a slight haze of rubber dust on the ground.

Do you ride yours on the street with the air shift disconnected? I would assume so because how would you connect a air compressor setup on that bike ( I am sure it can be done with a small electric compressor ).

Todd
 
You can run the air shifter anywhere. Either get a C02 version or an onboard compressor.
 
I think we figured I am at 235 ish with gear. So your only about 50 ish lbs more then me.

Yes it was at 1-2 shift. So obviously my shift technique is causing too much shock and breakage.

But on the street the tire spins for me. Not much, but enough that when I go back I can see clean cement or a slight haze of rubber dust on the ground.

Do you ride yours on the street with the air shift disconnected? I would assume so because how would you connect a air compressor setup on that bike ( I am sure it can be done with a small electric compressor ).

Todd

50lbs on a bike is huge brother, about the equivalent of 400lbs on a car... what's your email? I'll send you pics, I have a small onboard compressor so mine is always there. I sent ya my number in a pm so give me a shout and I'll tell you all about what I've done :)

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50lbs on a bike is huge brother, about the equivalent of 400lbs on a car... what's your email? I'll send you pics, I have a small onboard compressor so mine is always there. I sent ya my number in a pm so give me a shout and I'll tell you all about what I've done :)

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Oh I know 50lbs is a bit.

[email protected]

Todd
 
Sean sold me mine and I'm thrilled with it :)

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How many tenth's will 50 more lbs slow a vmax down in a 1/4 mile. I was 5 tenth's of a second slower than Todd and i think Todd did a great job on his et. We both got crap 60' time (1.85 and 1.87) so i know i can shave 2 tenths on my 60' so if i new how much my extra weight will slow me down i would be able to come up with a number to shoot for. Im thinking at 268lbs in full gear i should run 11.60s maybe 11.50s on a great run. Todd what was your 60' when you got the 11.29 Im thinking a 1.75
 
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