Morleys electrical test kit

Discussion in 'General Vendor Display' started by TB99Max, Jan 5, 2017.

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  1. Jan 5, 2017 #1

    TB99Max

    TB99Max

    TB99Max

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    A few weeks back I posted about ongoing issues I'm having with my Vmax. Long story short.... a few had mentioned to contact Sean and get his electrical test kit. I received it today and HOLY CRAP! So much stuff in there! He even sent a full set of carbs... unbelievable! I can't even imagine how much all that stuff cost and he sent it NO CHARGE!! I offered to pay for shipping and he declined. Other than me buying a seat from him about 9 months or so ago, he doesn't know me and he still sent all this stuff! Awesome! So now I just got to figure out where to start. I'm open to suggestions....
    THANKS AGAIN SEAN!
     
  2. Jan 5, 2017 #2

    davesax36

    davesax36

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    Start with the carbs.

    At least I think I would. I have to go read your thread again, but I think you said it runs fine for a few days then gets bad. After that, I'd do the coils and cdi. Then switch your components back in one at a time.

    Or you can hook up all the parts and start swapping your stuff back in however you want until the symptoms return. Then you know what you need.
     
  3. Jan 6, 2017 #3

    tothemax93

    tothemax93

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    What ever you start with, do one thing at a time. It's so easy to get off track and create confusion by doing a bunch of changes at once.
     
  4. Jan 6, 2017 #4

    TB99Max

    TB99Max

    TB99Max

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    Thanks for the info guys! I will definitely do one at a time to figure out exactly what it is. I've been dealing with this for probably six months now if not more, so the least I can do for everyone here that has helped is post exactly what's wrong! I'm sure we can all admit that these VMax's can be as temperamental as high maintenance woman! So if I can possible help someone in the future by nailing this down to one thing, I'm gonna do it. Now I just need to lock myself in my garage to keep the wife and kids out :rofl_200: and get it done :punk:
     
  5. Jan 6, 2017 #5

    davesax36

    davesax36

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    SO MUCH THIS!!!!


    Don't ask me how I know...
     
  6. Jan 6, 2017 #6

    Fire-medic

    Fire-medic

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    I've had two ignition pick-up coils go bad on my 1992 in the 24 years I've owned it. It would start, and run fine, but after about 10 minutes of running, the engine would shut off like someone flipped the kill switch. It would turn over fine but never catch, until it cooled down. Then it would run, again until it heated-up. It drove me crazy trying to diagnose it.

    The second time it began doing the same thing, years later, I swapped it out immediately, and I'm still running on that one. Early ignitions (1985-1989) have two pairs of pick-up coils, another reason to consider swapping your early-model components for the 1990-2007 design ignition system. COPS added to that is about as-good as it gets, unless you want an Ignitech or DYNA for the rev limiter and other functions, if/when your engine control module goes bad. If that's your case, the 'black box' behind the steering head, ask Sean about the latest DYNA, or the Ignitech, he sells both, before you just swap in for good a used stock box. Fuhgeddabouit buying a new OEM ignition box.
     
  7. Jan 10, 2017 #7

    TB99Max

    TB99Max

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    Ok... I have an update, kind of. I first tried coils and wires, no change. Then I tried the cdi box, ignition box, black box,:rofl_200: whatever you want to call it! And no change. So I figured the carbs have been off and fiddled with so much might as well slap the new ones on and see what happens, IT WORKED! I only got to ride it for 5.5 miles then it started raining but hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to put some more miles on it to make sure it's good. when I had them off before I didn't check the coasting enrichers and in my thread that I started a few weeks back I remember someone mentioning those. So I took them apart and ALL FOUR had cracked diaphragms! Also I hadn't taken the brass pieces that connect to the choke and slide in and out. So I removed them and they all had some build up on them, one was pretty bad. Not sure if these are going to fix the whole problem but I was having a lot of popping on deceleration so now that'll be fixed (thanks to Sean)!
     
  8. Jan 10, 2017 #8

    tothemax93

    tothemax93

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    Good for you:clapping: I know how encouraging it can be, after all that frustration.
     
  9. Jan 11, 2017 #9

    TB99Max

    TB99Max

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    Once I get the diaphragms and get it all back together I need to check the float levels because I didn't do that last time I took them off so it also might have been contributing to the problems. No gas was leaking out of the overflows but that indicates a stuck float if I remember right, it doesn't dump out if the level is a little off does it?
     
  10. Jan 11, 2017 #10

    davesax36

    davesax36

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    It won't dump unless the float is stuck. They can be way off with no outside indicator.
     
  11. Jan 11, 2017 #11

    TB99Max

    TB99Max

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    The rain finally let up for a bit today so I got to ride a little! I now have just over 26 miles and everything is still good! :clapping: I start my 7 days on ( work ) tomorrow and I'm working nights so once I get the parts I'll be able to take the carbs to work with me and do it all there! Love my job sometimes :eusa_dance:
     
  12. Jan 12, 2017 #12

    Fire-medic

    Fire-medic

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    OK, so apparently carbs, not electrical, sounds like you found the issue. If you don't want to mess with them, you can send them to Dannymax, Sean, or Captainkyle. But, it sounds as though you've been far-enough into them previously, so just take your time. Perhaps get Damon's carb dvd?
     
  13. Jan 12, 2017 #13

    TB99Max

    TB99Max

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    I should be fine, I have taken them apart a few times. Checking the float levels is really the only thing I'm unsure of. I haven't done a wet check but when I had the float bowl apart I had it lined up with the little circle mark.
     
  14. Jan 13, 2017 #14

    one2dmax

    one2dmax

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    DON'T rely on the circle! At least do the dry measurement which should be close enough. I can't stress how critical float settings are to proper operation.
     

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