Went out and took some pics earlier of my nitrous setup, I bought the kit used for $200 and bought 3 helium bottles from a friend for $100 (they are basically the same as high pressure CO2 bottles) and I went ahead and added a low fuel pressure safety switch and a full throttle microswitch.. I put the nozzles in the intakes just in front of the Vboost butterflies, I mounted the fuel pump to the swingarm pivot crossmember and put the solenoids under the seat where the factory coils used to be and I used a smaller Ballistic battery to gain some space here too, pardon the wires everywhere because there is wiring for my air shifter, wideband O2 sensor, nitrous & fuel solenoids, bottle heater, ect, ect.. I pulled the gas tank and removed the drain bolt and drilled & tapped it to 1/8"npt and put a T in there with a plug so I could still drain fuel and the other port I ran to the fuel pump. I used the plastic lines with the funnel jets and personally I think this is the way to go because routing is so much easier and everything blends nice.
Now I did extend my swingarm myself and I laid it all out so I could mount my bottle as pictured. I'm just kinda holding it in place in the pics and the band clamp isn't in place but you get the idea... I set it up with 11.5" shocks cause I needed limited suspension travel to where it would be impossible to hit the bottle with the tire, I ditched the mud guard and used the tabs on the gas tank to fab a bracket to hold the bottle secure in place and I've got probably 5000-8000 miles this year and nothing ever comes close to touching. I also took this opportunity to weld up the brake side and underbrace for the swingarm air tight and weld in a fitting to use the swingarm itself as the air tank for my air shifter... I modified my stock gauge cluster to mount an oil press gauge and a nitrous press gauge, I also put in a valve on the side of the bike so you can wheel open the bottle and see your bottle press but with the shutoff valve you can keep from having pressure on the solenoid all the time... If you see someone you wanna bust off just open the shutoff valve turn on the toggle and hurt some feelings LOL the kit comes with a dpdt switch and I hooked the trigger up to my starter button, with the switch off everything works like normal but turn the switch on and the fuel pump starts running and providing your at wot then just touch the starter button and your having fun.
I was already using the horn button for my air shifter (my horn didn't work but if it does you can use a dpdt switch here too) so that's why I used the starter button for activation but first time I sprayed at night I learned that my headlight was going out, makes sense because it does while cranking too so I put a small toggle on it and bypassed the headlight "grounding out" while the button is being pushed. This came in handy later after I added a bottle heater so now I can leave the headlight off in the staging lanes and get my bottle pressure up without overtaxing my charging system, plus its nice to have the option of shutting your headlight off. Next I found that I really needed a purge, not for performance but so you can keep the bottle pressure from going too high.. That's about all I can think of now, if anyone has any questions feel free to ask.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
Now I did extend my swingarm myself and I laid it all out so I could mount my bottle as pictured. I'm just kinda holding it in place in the pics and the band clamp isn't in place but you get the idea... I set it up with 11.5" shocks cause I needed limited suspension travel to where it would be impossible to hit the bottle with the tire, I ditched the mud guard and used the tabs on the gas tank to fab a bracket to hold the bottle secure in place and I've got probably 5000-8000 miles this year and nothing ever comes close to touching. I also took this opportunity to weld up the brake side and underbrace for the swingarm air tight and weld in a fitting to use the swingarm itself as the air tank for my air shifter... I modified my stock gauge cluster to mount an oil press gauge and a nitrous press gauge, I also put in a valve on the side of the bike so you can wheel open the bottle and see your bottle press but with the shutoff valve you can keep from having pressure on the solenoid all the time... If you see someone you wanna bust off just open the shutoff valve turn on the toggle and hurt some feelings LOL the kit comes with a dpdt switch and I hooked the trigger up to my starter button, with the switch off everything works like normal but turn the switch on and the fuel pump starts running and providing your at wot then just touch the starter button and your having fun.
I was already using the horn button for my air shifter (my horn didn't work but if it does you can use a dpdt switch here too) so that's why I used the starter button for activation but first time I sprayed at night I learned that my headlight was going out, makes sense because it does while cranking too so I put a small toggle on it and bypassed the headlight "grounding out" while the button is being pushed. This came in handy later after I added a bottle heater so now I can leave the headlight off in the staging lanes and get my bottle pressure up without overtaxing my charging system, plus its nice to have the option of shutting your headlight off. Next I found that I really needed a purge, not for performance but so you can keep the bottle pressure from going too high.. That's about all I can think of now, if anyone has any questions feel free to ask.
Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
