No headlight, no instrument lights?

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Sauron

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I walked out of a friend's house last night, got on the bike, started her up and-hey presto, no headlight and no instrument lights. I still had running lights, tail light, turn signals and brake lights. All fuses are fine, no loose connections I could find.

Is this the symptom of a sticky starter button?

Thanks, guys. I appreciate all the advice you give everyone in need.
 
I can't see how the gauge lights would be affected by a sticking starter switch. The Clymer schematic shows the gauge lights receiving their power from a blue wire, that originates at the ignition switch. This arrangement appears to be common to all model years. The blue wire also powers up the front running lights and the taillight. The only fuse shown to protect this blue wire circuit is the main 30 amp fuse, downstream of the ignition switch. This seems odd. Maybe done this way for safety?
Do the Haines and OEM manuals indicate a similar arrangement?
 
I can't see how the gauge lights would be affected by a sticking starter switch. The Clymer schematic shows the gauge lights receiving their power from a blue wire, that originates at the ignition switch. This arrangement appears to be common to all model years. The blue wire also powers up the front running lights and the taillight. The only fuse shown to protect this blue wire circuit is the main 30 amp fuse, downstream of the ignition switch. This seems odd. Maybe done this way for safety?
Do the Haines and OEM manuals indicate a similar arrangement?

The Clymer schematics are wrong in places including that little piece which is why I don't use the Clymer electric diagram. I prefer the factory service manual as the schematics are more accurate. The dash and speedo lights do cutoff when the start button is pushed.
 
Mark is correct. The start button is a dual switch. It disconnects the light power when pushed in and connects the starter relay. When out it disconnects the starter relay and reconnects the headlight. BUT, when they stick (which is very common) it get's stuck just in between the 2 different sets on contacts.

Sean
 
The Clymer schematics are wrong in places including that little piece which is why I don't use the Clymer electric diagram. I prefer the factory service manual as the schematics are more accurate. The dash and speedo lights do cutoff when the start button is pushed.

Say it ain't so, Maleko!
The Clymer manual was one of my first purchases in 03, after the bike. It's been like a bible to me(no offense to The Good Book), in particular, the wiring diagrams. I've modded extensively - another four-circuit fuse box, a few stand-alone fused circuits, and numerous tap-ins and deletions to the original wiring.
So far, I haven't run across any discrepancies in terms of wiring colour or routing, everything has been per the Clymer schematics.
Recently, Alorio1 was kind enough to forward me some updated diagrams(I believe they had been done by Dingy), but they didn't apply to my model year.
So I guess I should look around for an O.E.M. manual, or maybe a Haynes?
Do you know of any mistakes in that one?
Cheers

p.s. - I just started my bike. Like you stated, the dash lights go off when the starter button is depressed. A curse on you, Mr. Clymer. I'm sticking pins in my manual right now! Feel my pain!!:damn angry:
 
Miles, I haven't ever seen a Haynes so can't comment on that. I think the discrepancy I think I remember is from the early years schematic...something about the cutoff circuit.I prefer the traditional schematic Factory has as it's easier for me to follow..especially with the relay internals.
 
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