Okay I got my self the Gen 1 Buza forks, but now where I find the triple clamps...???

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Time to get some paper and pen. Do some good ole fashioned leg work.
I mean finger work to search this forum, a few well known site's, flea bay etc.
Really, the choices are many, the prices vary widely, as does the quality.
Im sure the information is somewhere here, i just have not found it


I guess i need a depper commitment
 
Rake and trail are set by the frame but you also need to consider the offset i.e. the distance between the centre line of the steering head and the fork tubes.
For info the Max has a rake of 29° and trail of 4.7".
Just to throw another pebble into the pond, the Marauder weighs 456lb and the Max 597id so I would assume that some changes to spring weight and possibly damping would be required?
 
I believe the fork legs have the casting for the second rotor and just need drilled out? It's been awhile and I haven't looked at the fork leg set here. I would simply run a 320mm rotor on your Vmax wheel, make the adapters to hang calipers, then whatever spacers needed to get the wheel in there.
 
Rake and trail are set by the frame but you also need to consider the offset i.e. the distance between the centre line of the steering head and the fork tubes.
For info the Max has a rake of 29° and trail of 4.7".
Just to throw another pebble into the pond, the Marauder weighs 456lb and the Max 597id so I would assume that some changes to spring weight and possibly damping would be required?
Sorry just use to throwing rake and trail together when talking about bikes suspension. Different offset on triples affects the trail. Changing how quick the turnin. My human race teams fzr750r ( 2time world endurance champion bike) has adjustable offset triples. A couple mm can make a big difference...in the trail. And steering quickness.
 
Sorry just use to throwing rake and trail together when talking about bikes suspension. Different offset on triples affects the trail. Changing how quick the turnin. My human race teams fzr750r ( 2time world endurance champion bike) has adjustable offset triples. A couple mm can make a big difference...in the trail. And steering quickness.
I have a 1st year FZR1000 2nd owner, a friend bought it new. Still fun to ride. It doesn't get out much.
 
I have a 1st year FZR1000 2nd owner, a friend bought it new. Still fun to ride. It doesn't get out much.
I bought the first FZR1000 in the state of Wisconsin in 87. Later had RES in Texas build it to the max even lightened the crank. 187hp. $6400. Had a guy pull out in front of me. They determined that I was doing less than 35mph. I was wearing a helmet and full leathers. Spent 2 1/2 months in the hospital. Anyway that's why I bought the Human Race Teams. Fzr750r to put that motor in.
 
Finally i got to compare the Marauder forks..

First they are almost two times as heavy as the buza forks

They are the same lenght as the gen 1 vmax forks, the triple clamps about 10mm wider

The brske mounts dont let me install the big six piston tokico calipers and one side is pre,cast but the holes are not drill all the way (no big deal at all)

Things i can not live with, the axle is Punny like 12 maybe 13mm and not much meat to remachine a much bigger one [18-19-20mm]

Also they are softer than most of my bicycle forks and bring them up to vmax spects will be cost prohito ÷
 
Im afraid i jumo two guns by not doing my homework

The buza forks are 55mm to short and will need custom.made drop clamps, not cheap even if i made them

The marauder are of the same lenght but they bounce like a pogo stick and the wheel sxle us far to punny to provide the rigidity im looking for


Also the brake mounts are from a really old standard

Plus no after market support or just literature

So i got me a set of early R1 775mm so about 1 1/4" to short but i think i have a clever mount with out spending hours on the bridgeport


I show you next week


Ps: for some reason the R1 are cheaper and plentyful and with more truthwordy fellow, i almost got scam two times by buza sellers
 
Im afraid i jumo two guns by not doing my homework

The buza forks are 55mm to short and will need custom.made drop clamps, not cheap even if i made them

The marauder are of the same lenght but they bounce like a pogo stick and the wheel sxle us far to punny to provide the rigidity im looking for


Also the brake mounts are from a really old standard

Plus no after market support or just literature

So i got me a set of early R1 775mm so about 1 1/4" to short but i think i have a clever mount with out spending hours on the bridgeport


I show you next week


Ps: for some reason the R1 are cheaper and plentyful and with more truthwordy fellow, i almost got scam two times by buza sellers
If you go to the Cycleoneoff site, click on USD front ends, scroll down to New Fork Tube Extentions.
There you'll see what it is you need if you dont want the dropped triples.
Those fork tube extender's go up to 2" for all popular USD swaps.
Check it out for the info and pics, you might be able to turn out your own if you have a machine and alittle billet on hand.
 
If you go to the Cycleoneoff site, click on USD front ends, scroll down to New Fork Tube Extentions.
There you'll see what it is you need if you dont want the dropped triples.
Those fork tube extender's go up to 2" for all popular USD swaps.
Check it out for the info and pics, you might be able to turn out your own if you have a machine and alittle billet on hand.
Thanks found the folder and it is some light at the end up the tunnel

http://m.cycleoneoff.com/?url=http://www.cycleoneoff.com/#2897
 
Okay i got my self a whole R1 front end, except the punny 4 pods yamaha calipers [they dont even work that well on my R6 that is much lighter]

So the question is..

Anybody has a pattern/blue print, etc to run the 6 pod tokicos on the R1 forks...??
 
Can somebody explain me..

The R1 forks 28" when the vmax are like 33"

How can i make the diference with a 2inch drop clamp..??

Do i slide the fork legs the rest of the missing distance...??
 
If you go to the Cycleoneoff site, click on USD front ends, scroll down to New Fork Tube Extentions.
There you'll see what it is you need if you dont want the dropped triples.
Those fork tube extender's go up to 2" for all popular USD swaps.
Check it out for the info and pics, you might be able to turn out your own if you have a machine and alittle billet on hand.
It's funny the picture of the fj1200. In cycleoneoff's page for fork extensions. Belongs to a fellow fj fanatic. Who bought some of my old extensions I had made for my gixxer forks on my fjs. To replace his cycleoneoff extensions. He didn't like that they just slip over the end of the forks. Mine were clamped down with 3 allen head bolts. Which after I designed and built Mine I thought was kinda overkill.
 
It's funny the picture of the fj1200. In cycleoneoff's page for fork extensions. Belongs to a fellow fj fanatic. Who bought some of my old extensions I had made for my gixxer forks on my fjs. To replace his cycleoneoff extensions. He didn't like that they just slip over the end of the forks. Mine were clamped down with 3 allen head bolts. Which after I designed and built Mine I thought was kinda overkill.
Thanks..

By know i know all those photos by heart

The tube extenders scare me, but they are fir sure simpler than milling a 7inch tall chuck of aluminum to make a half moon shape..



Do people lower the forks too steppen the head angle..???


Looking to run a 130/70/R17 tire, i dont think anything bigger will fit the R1 rim

Thanks again for all the help
 
It's funny the picture of the fj1200. In cycleoneoff's page for fork extensions. Belongs to a fellow fj fanatic. Who bought some of my old extensions I had made for my gixxer forks on my fjs. To replace his cycleoneoff extensions. He didn't like that they just slip over the end of the forks. Mine were clamped down with 3 allen head bolts. Which after I designed and built Mine I thought was kinda overkill.
Is it "overkill" or "avoidakill"....if ya get my drift.
When I was assembling my COO set-up I was thinking the same thing.
My extentions , powder coated inside and out, going over the powder coated fork tubes.
A light press fit and the bottom triple clamp is whats holding it all together.
Kinda scary but its held since , well, almost ten years now, even survived a car attack.
I looked long and hard at the billetbikebitz, Otec and some other eye candy but chose local and American, ohwell, I keep things in check but ride the hell out of it too.
 
Thanks..

By know i know all those photos by heart

The tube extenders scare me, but they are fir sure simpler than milling a 7inch tall chuck of aluminum to make a half moon shape..



Do people lower the forks too steppen the head angle..???


Looking to run a 130/70/R17 tire, i dont think anything bigger will fit the R1 rim

Thanks again for all the help
Again, check the euro sites for that fat tire,(200 front, 360 rear) look.
Of course they offer smaller sizes , but there's one of many resources.
 
The extensions will survive very hard crashes. I have more sets being made but if anyone wants a set to fit the Busa forks I need to get them made 1mm larger (55mm lower vs 54mm for most other forks)

IMG953239.jpg IMG_20170830_180247694.jpg
 
Is it "overkill" or "avoidakill"....if ya get my drift.
When I was assembling my COO set-up I was thinking the same thing.
My extentions , powder coated inside and out, going over the powder coated fork tubes.
A light press fit and the bottom triple clamp is whats holding it all together.
Kinda scary but its held since , well, almost ten years now, even survived a car attack.
I looked long and hard at the billetbikebitz, Otec and some other eye candy but chose local and American, ohwell, I keep things in check but ride the hell out of it too.
Oh so you are the one..

My respects, yes looks scary but is a very clever implementation, it becomes a mono block after the bolts are tight and even before is pretty solid..

So far my favorite solution


Congratulations
 
Well done you have discovered another source of expense.

As you have discovered there is no provision for a speedo drive nor, I suspect, sufficient space to install one?
As far as I know you have two choices both of which involves changing the speedo:
i) Use a magnetic pick-up for example this
ii) Use a GPS pick-up for example this

I'm sure others who have gone down this route will tell you their solution.
 
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