I know there is a thread in here that has information on this subject, I just can't find it again. When I shift into first gear the bike bumps forward with a loud clunk. It has 3,500 miles on it a 2002 stock. It will do it every time. Do I need more miles on it to loosen it up? Thanks for any help.
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shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
Mine does it a little bit.Worse with 10w40 oil in it.
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
It might have been that sometimes when you start these bikes the lunge forward a foot or two because the clutch is sticking in the cold oil.I always pump my lever 3 or 4 times to break it loose before staring it.
Check the obvious. IF the clutch is doing it every time that would suggest that it is not fully releasing.
While cold, this could be due to thick oil binding the friction plates but if it still does it when warmed up then the clutch is not releasing properly.
Have you tried bleeding the clutch hydraulic line?
If you have a 2002 model with very low mileage on it, it sounds like it spends most of its time just sitting around doing nothing. Thats a great opportunity for seals to bind in the slave cylinder.
Mine did this when the slave cylinder piston was binding on the seals. It has never done it since the clutch slave and master cylinder seals were replaced.
While cold, this could be due to thick oil binding the friction plates but if it still does it when warmed up then the clutch is not releasing properly.
Have you tried bleeding the clutch hydraulic line?
If you have a 2002 model with very low mileage on it, it sounds like it spends most of its time just sitting around doing nothing. Thats a great opportunity for seals to bind in the slave cylinder.
Mine did this when the slave cylinder piston was binding on the seals. It has never done it since the clutch slave and master cylinder seals were replaced.
Robbarrie
Well-Known Member
Mine does it when cold and it hasn't had enough time to warm up. What I do is get it rolling down the drive way and then release the clutch. Or I usually have it on the center stand so I'll put it in gear while on the stand as it warms up a bit. - just don't rev it or you may find it could be taking off without you on it. :biglaugh:
81LS1Camaro
Well-Known Member
I am having the same problem and just rebuilt the slave and master cylinders. I also thought it was not fully releasing, just dont know what to try next. I also have bled the system multiple times.
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tugla
Well-Known Member
has anyone come up with the solution to the problem as i also had this last year and rebuilt the slave, thought it would do it but sure enough when bike is warm and in 1st it wants to creep forward, can hold it back with either my feet or brake but also makes for finding neutral hard. if i rev it up with clutch in it helps or make sure i hit neutral before i come to a full stop. wondering if i have to change the clutch, its not slipping while driving but maybe starting to do with these symptoms?
Won't be the clutch. Sounds more like either bad master or bad slave cylinder.
Sean
Sean
tugla
Well-Known Member
what do you think sean its worth a rebuild on the master, or most of the time thats a waste of time, if not then do you sell rebuild kits also?
just to clarify its not the lurch into gear im wondering about its the creeping forward as clutch is in, and thinking thats whats making it shift shitty, if i shift fast its better but if i hold in the lever for a moment or so(nice lazy shifting) for sure it does not go into gear nicely.
Sounds like pressure is slowly bypassing which if you don't have a leak (loss of fluid) I would say the master is bad. You could try a rebuild kit or swapping it out. Never tried to rebuild the master but i've not had a shortage of them either! Most of the ones i have look like crap though and would need painted or they have had the mirror mount broken off.
You may be able to simply take it apart and clean up the bore (typical place for corrosion to build up).
Sean
You may be able to simply take it apart and clean up the bore (typical place for corrosion to build up).
Sean
tugla
Well-Known Member
guess id have to open it up again, nothing was floating around in the reservoir when i rebuilt the slave unit looked nice just a little dark the fluid which obviously is all chg out.
drop me a line if you have a decent unit kicking around for sale and how much, havent decided is i'll try the rebuild yet or not. any other bikes i can take one off of and through on you know of?
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
This is caused by the clutch not disengaging the whole way. Either the master or slave or both need rebuilt. I have seen on some bikes, after a lot of abuse, the clutch basket gets notches worn into the slots that retain the "fingers" of the friction plates. More common on dirt bikes than street bikes. I know on my CR5 I couldn't even sit still with the bike in gear, holding the clutch lever in. The basket was severely notched. I took a flat file and smoothed out all the notches. The clutch now works better than it ever has. First time I could start the bike in gear in YEARS... Not saying the basket is the issue with your max. Just saying it is not disengaging for some reason.
tugla
Well-Known Member
ive had that on my dirt bikes and was wondering if it could be that, had to have been lots of abuse by PO to have a worn basket.
when you filed it doesnt it create too much slope in the basket then for the clutches??? i know temp fix but how about the chatter then if any?
Baskets do get worn over the years and depends on how it was treated and how much stop and go. Used masters are $75 and the rebuild kit is $30
Sean
Sean
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
There is definitley more slop in the basket after filing. I can't say wether or not it will hurt anything. My guess is that it will do it all over again, but faster this time since there is more room to move. Not that I have any proof but thats just a guess. I can say that it has cured my disengagement issue and the clutch is now smooth as silk and works great. Not sure how long it will last but I'm in no hurry to spend a few hundred on a clutch basket for a 20 year old dirt bike.
If you find the basket to be the problem I do have a vmax/venture outer basket that may fit. I know its good for 85-96. Not sure about the newer years. I also have the parts to convert the clutch over to a coil spring setup. If you were interested in that it would work with any year vmax and would include the outer basket if you really need one.
The outer baskets are the same for venture and vmax. The inner early baskets are different on the coil spring setups and you need the inner basket, outer pressure plate with springs and bolts, and short push rod to convert. We have chromed them and I am getting ready to install one that has been candy red powdercoated over chrome (for red chrome). Looks sharp - see pics on the facebook site.
Sean
Sean
