Somewhat mechanical, BUT...

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OU812

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I think my 98' Vmax has fallen to the dreaded carb funk... I have tryed everything from checking the cv dia. to changin' the coil, battery, and a number of other quick fixes... Never had a problem with any other of the number of bikes I've had including Vmax's, and not draining the bowls or using stabilizers. Thought I'd try Seafoam this past year.:confused2: Think I'm gonna have to try the "shotgun". Is this done on the bike and is it as easy as it sounds ? It runs, but right bottem pipe (cobra slashes) is popping and runnin flaaaat. Don't wanna make it worse and have to "shop" it as I got an est. yesturday of $600.00 to clean & sync them.:bang head: What to do ????
 
Man, save your $600 and do it yourself, that price is far beyond ridiculous! If it comes to it there are carb cleaning services available right here on the forum for a hell of a lot less! Maleko does them, I think Ragin Main and check with Sean M. too.
But first, do the shotgun and peashooter yourself, if you see a change, but maybe not enough, do them again! Then get a can of BG44K and run 1/3 can in each of 3 tankfulls through and see what you got.
If it still runs bad then see about carb cleaning.


Edit: Just to put the $600 in focus....you could buy a whole rack of carbs (already cleaned) for less than that!!
 
I usually charge $400 to sonic tank a set of carbs but that includes about $150 worth of new gaskets/seals. Likely it's just the pilot jet in the jet block that is clogged. Easily within your ability to fix by using the various carb threads on here.

Sean
 
Well you guys talked me into it... Did the shotgun, drained all the fuel, went by the book, and wa-la... So far, so good... put er mostly back together and went for a quick blast. ( Corona...) Seemed to do well. Friday will tell more. Wanna thank the ones that respondedto my post. This was NOT a big deal to do and by the looks of what came out of er veins, it will be an every year thing.
As I was doing this job, a friend called and informed me that he will be selling his 98' Vmax shortly if anyone is interested... Nice clean bike. Thanks again to all . I will sleep better tonight.
 
UPDATE ... Well, it ran like a "raped-ape" like it should for a day or so, then had a spell of the sputters and such, clearde a bit, & now is sorta flat once again and doesn't seem as though the V-boost isn't kickin' in. Can hear the servo cycleing, but just doesn't seem to have that rush... Hmmm. :hmmm: Will get into it more here this week. Also did the direct wireing from the R/R to the battery. BIG BIG diff.:thumbs up: Wanna get it to run as the shuttle did this morning... C that anyone ?
 
as I think about it, is there anything around the battery-coil wiring harness that may have been russled loose or unplugged that could have anything to do with the vboost system ? Is it true that I may have heard that the vboost is somewhat related to the coils & spark & such ? :ummm:
 
Yes, the vboost works by monitoring the pulses of one coil. That's how it knows the motor's hitting 6000 rpm and then it opens the butterfly valves.
 
Yep . That seemed to be the case. One of the wire ends in the #1 coil connector had pushed through and was not connected. Removed the seat and saw this rite away... Back to norm...
May be lookin' for a steering damper soon. Any suggestions would be appreciated...
Again, thanks for the info !
 
If you're looking for a damper you must be experiencing wobbles.

Two things: 1) read here about adjusting your steering bearings - they make a big difference.

And 2) the Max is simply wobbly. The frame, forks and swingarm all flex under stress because they're not strong enough for its weight and performance.

So rather than fitting a damper, you might want to consider either frame braces or fitting solid (instead of rubber) motor mounts, you'll prolly get better results.

After that you start talking big money - USD beefier forks, braced swingarm, 17" or 18" wheels with radial tires etc..
 
If you're looking for a damper you must be experiencing wobbles.

Two things: 1) read here about adjusting your steering bearings - they make a big difference.

And 2) the Max is simply wobbly. The frame, forks and swingarm all flex under stress because they're not strong enough for its weight and performance.

So rather than fitting a damper, you might want to consider either frame braces or fitting solid (instead of rubber) motor mounts, you'll prolly get better results.

After that you start talking big money - USD beefier forks, braced swingarm, 17" or 18" wheels with radial tires etc..

Going on that same assumption, check this thread out.... http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=11619

If you do have a wobble, when does it show up, under de-celleration between 50 - 35 or way up in the OMG! range (130+)?
 

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