What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

[desert_max]

Very nice update on the vmax brakes...but i think that without high pressure brake lines and a proper brake master cylinder is a half-done job!
...but for me a six pot caliper from gsxr 1000 K1-K2 is much much better and ultra lighter!!!!...

Well, as our friend from Greece pointed out, and rightly so, doing a brake upgrade and leaving 35 year old rubber brake lines in place is not a good idea. I knew better, but was in a hurry and thought I’d play it cheap. So, I basically got to do the job twice…

Well, that job is no longer half done! Galfer braided steel lines from Sean showed up today and went on just a couple of hours later. If I thought the brake action was improved with just the calipers and rotors, the firmness of the lever now is just amazing. Transformed this Motorcycle! The brakes are almost digital. It’s gonna take some getting used to, but let’s just say Mr. Max will stop now. And I mean now.

 

[johnissan]

Yes you have a point my friend.....with a six pot calliper you can use a little bit longer pads but they are heavier and with the adaptors and the screws become more heavier and the evolution of the pads is not so geat anymore. All the manufactores turned to 4 pot callipers. But i think that you can't compare the 30 years old technology 200 plus grams heavier 4pot callipers of the 93-07 vmax with the latest 4pot callipers that yamaha is using to all the bikes that are in production! Notice that i love six pots callipers and for my busa i've paid almost 900 euros to buy the Nissin gold series with the diferent pots diameter and the great feeling!! and not 650 euros to buy a racing monoblock Brembo with the great stoping capability.
I'm not selling anything....just my opinion!

 

[johnissan]

Well, as our friend from Greece pointed out, and rightly so, doing a brake upgrade and leaving 35 year old rubber brake lines in place is not a good idea. I knew better, but was in a hurry and thought I’d play it cheap. So, I basically got to do the job twice…

Well, that job is no longer half done! Galfer braided steel lines from Sean showed up today and went on just a couple of hours later. If I thought the brake action was improved with just the calipers and rotors, the firmness of the lever now is just amazing. Transformed this Motorcycle! The brakesView attachment 77061View attachment 77062 are almost digital. It’s gonna take some getting used to, but let’s just say Mr. Max will stop now. And I mean now.

Well done my friend!...but in my opinion a geat brake system is an combine of few things more!...a beter brake master cylinder and an upgrade to the front suspension system will give you superordinate stoping capability!....but the parts that you put on your vmax are definetly much much better than the stock brake system!

 

[desert_max]

Well done my friend!...but in my opinion a geat brake system is an combine of few things more!...a beter brake master cylinder and an upgrade to the front suspension system will give you superordinate stoping capability!....but the parts that you put on your vmax are definetly much much better than the stock brake system!

I can understand the desire for springs. Perhaps even the need. But I have no compelling reason to upgrade the master cylinder. In fact, I asked about that, and it turns out that many folks continue to use the stock master. It seems the fluid displacement ratio is still a good match. I don't know what the bore in all those caliper cylinders is versus the displacement from the master cylinder but it's extremely functional, the lever action is two finger, so I'm not convinced upgrading the master cylinder would even be an upgrade. What would be the benefit? If spending money for bragging rights counts, then perhaps so.

 

[VmaXXX]

Put in a K&N oil filter and 5 qts of 10w50 semi-synthetic Yamalube. What a fiasco. The plug and filter both felt welded on. My drain pan wouldn't fit under the bike. My filter wrench wouldn't fit behind the radiator. My oil funnel wouldn't fit in the filler hole. Anywho. She's topped off and buttoned up. Between wrestling with Brutus and getting my 2nd vaccine dose this morning, I'm feeling beat up.

 

[johnissan]

I can understand the desire for springs. Perhaps even the need. But I have no compelling reason to upgrade the master cylinder. In fact, I asked about that, and it turns out that many folks continue to use the stock master. It seems the fluid displacement ratio is still a good match. I don't know what the bore in all those caliper cylinders is versus the displacement from the master cylinder but it's extremely functional, the lever action is two finger, so I'm not convinced upgrading the master cylinder would even be an upgrade. What would be the benefit? If spending money for bragging rights counts, then perhaps so.

Yes maybe you are right!...But for my customers i usualy use Nissin radial master cylinders from Kawasaki ZZR1400 they are very strong with great feeling and adjustable levers....also the Brembo master cylinders the cheap series from KTM super duke 990-1190 is the other option that i usualy use. But for guys that they don't want seperate fluid reservoirs i use master cylinders from FJR 1300 which are also compatible to vmax with dot4 brake fluid and they will have spare parts for many years. Yamaha and other companies don't like to support the older bikes with spare parts and for an examble yamaha stoped production crank safts for vmax gen1 and other parts. Any way here in Greece we like to brag about our aftermarket parts and modifications but you see.... we have only two race tracks to consume our energy and we compete each other on national roads with a lot of turns and hillclimbs...very dangerous situations...so we need every help we can find from frame-brakes-suspension!......I'm always telling my opinion...maybe i'm comlete wrong!

 

[one2dmax]

The manufacturers went back to 4 piston calipers to save weight on their liter bikes and other "sportbikes". They did not need the amount of stopping power provided by the 6 piston due to less overall bike weight AND they used larger rotors which have more leverage. If you look at the heavier bikes they do use a combination of larger rotors AND the larger calipers (for example on the gen 2 they still use the 6 piston calipers).

The 6 piston sumitomo's and the 6 piston hayabusa calipers both help achieve the greater stopping power due to the greater pad surfaces. Sure there is a TINY bit of added weight but for most not looking for 100% acceleration they are more then happy due to the increased stopping power they are able to achieve. If you are concerned with weight then run our single 6 caliper/big 320 rotor setup. This isn't as much stopping power as if you did twin versions but they are very similar in stopping power of the 6 piston/298mm setup but less rotating mass and less static mass.

The stock 5/8" masters are a very good match and provide the rider with good "feel" instead of the wooden or solid feel that the R1 4 piston calipers can tend to create. Depending on the year of the FJR1300 used they are ALSO 5/8" so moving over to them only gets you the adjustable levers (which can be bought for the stock Vmax anyway). Most of the years with different bore size also do not have mirror mounting provisions so you have to come up with a fix for that too (either handlebar clamp or bar end mirrors).

We've used a number of master versions on the Vmax but usually we look for that 5/8" bore size since it works so well overall.

A number of brake upgrades we have done (and still have most available) in order of the pictures:
85-92 Forks w/Nissin 4 piston calipers and Stock size 280mm rotors
85-92 Forks w/Hayabusa 6 piston calipers and Stock size 280mm rotors
85-92 Forks w/R1 4 piston calipers with larger 298mm rotors (usually work best with -2" shorter lines)
85-92 Forks w/Hayabuse 6 piston calipers and 298mm rotors
85-92 Forks w/Hayabusa 6 piston caliper and 320mm rotors

93-07 Forks w/Sumitomo 6 piston caliper and 298mm rotors
93-07 Forks w/Hayabusa 6 piston caliper and 320mm rotors and +4" Longer lines
93-07 Forks w/Hayabusa 6 piston caliper and 298mm rotors and +4" longer lines (still in development testing)
93-07 Forks w/R1 4 piston calipers and 298mm rotors (usually work best with -2" shorter lines) *Note, while not an upgrade in power the gold dot are anti-stiction coated and operate very smoothly.

Example of sportbike masters conversions with custom billet reservoirs eliminating the remote plastic version.

 

[wallacedoolittle]

Courtesy of Sean Morley new frame braces

 

[johnissan]

The manufacturers went back to 4 piston calipers to save weight on their liter bikes and other "sportbikes". They did not need the amount of stopping power provided by the 6 piston due to less overall bike weight AND they used larger rotors which have more leverage. If you look at the heavier bikes they do use a combination of larger rotors AND the larger calipers (for example on the gen 2 they still use the 6 piston calipers).

The 6 piston sumitomo's and the 6 piston hayabusa calipers both help achieve the greater stopping power due to the greater pad surfaces. Sure there is a TINY bit of added weight but for most not looking for 100% acceleration they are more then happy due to the increased stopping power they are able to achieve. If you are concerned with weight then run our single 6 caliper/big 320 rotor setup. This isn't as much stopping power as if you did twin versions but they are very similar in stopping power of the 6 piston/298mm setup but less rotating mass and less static mass.

The stock 5/8" masters are a very good match and provide the rider with good "feel" instead of the wooden or solid feel that the R1 4 piston calipers can tend to create. Depending on the year of the FJR1300 used they are ALSO 5/8" so moving over to them only gets you the adjustable levers (which can be bought for the stock Vmax anyway). Most of the years with different bore size also do not have mirror mounting provisions so you have to come up with a fix for that too (either handlebar clamp or bar end mirrors).

We've used a number of master versions on the Vmax but usually we look for that 5/8" bore size since it works so well overall.

A number of brake upgrades we have done (and still have most available) in order of the pictures:
85-92 Forks w/Nissin 4 piston calipers and Stock size 280mm rotors
85-92 Forks w/Hayabusa 6 piston calipers and Stock size 280mm rotors
85-92 Forks w/R1 4 piston calipers with larger 298mm rotors (usually work best with -2" shorter lines)
85-92 Forks w/Hayabuse 6 piston calipers and 298mm rotors
85-92 Forks w/Hayabusa 6 piston caliper and 320mm rotors

93-07 Forks w/Sumitomo 6 piston caliper and 298mm rotors
93-07 Forks w/Hayabusa 6 piston caliper and 320mm rotors and +4" Longer lines
93-07 Forks w/Hayabusa 6 piston caliper and 298mm rotors and +4" longer lines (still in development testing)
93-07 Forks w/R1 4 piston calipers and 298mm rotors (usually work best with -2" shorter lines) *Note, while not an upgrade in power the gold dot are anti-stiction coated and operate very smoothly.

Example of sportbike masters conversions with custom billet reservoirs eliminating the remote plastic version.
[/QUOTE
Maybe my friend you did forget the CBR 954 back in 2002-2003 with 4piston nissin callipers and the 330mm ultra light rotors with the great stoping ability!...all the racers like to use powerfull 4piston callipers with the latest technology.....even they use 300mm or 310mm rotors to reduse the rotating mass! Some 6 pot callipers were more a marketing trick and not so usefull componet!...busa gen 1 became a thrill not for it's brakes!...gsxr 1000K-K2 has 6pot callipers likewise busas, but they are very different powerfull and very light!....the two callipers are almost the same weight as one busas, please check it!...and the weight DO matters...especialy when you add it on the suspension or on the wheels!...RI 2007-2014 with arround 185 hp and 190-205 kgr weight, use to had 6 pot callipers and the later model with more weight and arround 200 hp use 4pots and larger 320mm extra lights rotors...so.. technology goes forward and the extra weight is a loss.
Αss for the gen 2 vmax...Tiumph rocket 3 is also a very powerfull cruiser muscle bike with 165+ hp and 320+kgr and it use 4 pot brembo callipers and not 6 pot as the vmax gen 2 that it was taken from the faster bike of Yamaha R1,12 years ago!!!...also a marketing trick! Vmax 1700.....I LOVE IT and i wiil have it, because i love to change it...do it lighter (it is very heavy for my taste)....faster...and make it look like italian woman!....... As for the mirrors...you have plenty of options to match brackets from another master cylinder or another bike. They are thousands options on ebay from china or anywhere else!
I wish you all to have many safe and happy rides!

 

[desert_max]

We've used a number of master versions on the Vmax but usually we look for that 5/8" bore size since it works so well overall.

A number of brake upgrades we have done (and still have most available) in order of the pictures:
85-92 Forks w/Nissin 4 piston calipers and Stock size 280mm rotors
85-92 Forks w/Hayabusa 6 piston calipers and Stock size 280mm rotors
85-92 Forks w/R1 4 piston calipers with larger 298mm rotors (usually work best with -2" shorter lines)
85-92 Forks w/Hayabuse 6 piston calipers and 298mm rotors
85-92 Forks w/Hayabusa 6 piston caliper and 320mm rotors

93-07 Forks w/Sumitomo 6 piston caliper and 298mm rotors
93-07 Forks w/Hayabusa 6 piston caliper and 320mm rotors and +4" Longer lines
93-07 Forks w/Hayabusa 6 piston caliper and 298mm rotors and +4" longer lines (still in development testing)
93-07 Forks w/R1 4 piston calipers and 298mm rotors (usually work best with -2" shorter lines) *Note, while not an upgrade in power the gold dot are anti-stiction coated and operate very smoothly.

Pretty sure I prefer the Hooters upgrade ...

 

[Fire-medic]

Desert_Max said:
Pretty sure I prefer the Hooters upgrade ...

The Daytona Beach Hooters across from the Speedway always has good er, service. No I do not use a Venmo account.

 

[Dansmaxresto]

Carbs ready to come out.

Slides out, bench ready

Carbs out

First float bowl off. Hmmm, I think I see the issue.

 

[Fire-medic]

I suggest you get a soda blaster from somewhere, HFT has a relatively inexpensive one, and you can buy bicarbonate cheaper at Home Depot than you can at Harbor Freight.

15 lb. Portable Soda Blaster (harborfreight.com) $100

For $30 more, you can get a 40 lb capacity tank. 40 lb. Portable Soda Blaster (harborfreight.com)

These do a great job of quickly and efficiently scouring all that crap out of the float bowl nooks and crannies. You can use it on the outside too, but try it on something like a float bowl first to see if you are OK with any color change. They do not pattern the die-cast bodies like a media blaster loaded with glass beads does. A word of warning, do-not blow the bicarbonate of soda onto your lawn, it's like salting the earth. You can spread a tarp and collect the used media, and then screen it to remove debris, I use a swimming pool leaf screen, with good results.



For purposes of comparison, here's a set of early Gold Wing carbs which sat I think it was close-to 30 years before being opened. The odometer showed 35K miles. A session in the sonic tank cleaned 'em right-up. If you don't have a sonic tank, the soda blaster will do a decent job, but you still have to soak 'em in something to clean the passages. For carbs that-dirty, you'll probably need to use some fine wires the poke-through the hardened deposits, even-after soaking, though usually the sonic tank will remove that crud.

 

[Dansmaxresto]

Thanks for the tip Fire-medic. I’ve never heard of a soda blaster. I forgot to get “after pics” of the cleaned carb. I will on the next one. It seemed to clean up pretty good with carb cleaned, wire brushes and thin wire. All jest have been cleaned and all tiny holes are clear.

 

[Dansmaxresto]

Here's one of the carbs after cleaning

 

[Dansmaxresto]

BTW, my son Michael, who is 20, is doing most of the work on the carbs. He's one of those guys who can do anything mechanical. He did a frame off resto of the below 2004 YZ125. It was in terrible shape when he got it. He re-did everything including motor and trans and powdercoated a whole bunch of items including frame, swingarm and hubs, etc.

 

[Fire-medic]

The dirtbike looks great, I'll send him my DT-1!

 

[desert_max]

My bones don’t do dirt anymore. My last dirt machine was a 2005 Yamaha 660 Raptor. Thumper torque monster. Last of the 660s. Saw some pretty rugged back trails in Arizona with that thing. Abandoned mines. Wild burros. Lava tubes.

 

[Coastal Grey]

Good Day All
well last night got home from work put the new Battle-axe on the rear ( if anyone is using these tires what pressure are you running them at took the center right out of the previous one no burnouts was running it near max psi) just for the record I wont be switching from the battleaxes I like them they work well for me and I have a great deal of confidence in them. Put in 5 liters of amsoil metric 10w40 ,new Napa gold oil filter a set of rear pads gave it a good look over and rubbed it down , rolled it out of the barn.
Rode to work this morning and will get a safety this afternoon, it was nice to shake out the cobwebs of winter. Let the season begin🏍
Cheers
Peter

 

[Coastal Grey]

Passed the safety no issues think he was disappointed no work for him