Help me out here. Try as I might, I can only figure out 2 ways to get a smooth, non-"CRRRunk" shift from 1st to 2nd. The ways I can get a nice shift are shifting almost immediately or shifting 6,000 RPM or above. Am I alone?
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vmaxinID
Well-Known Member
My 99 is smooth shifting, perhaps yours is a symptom of a brand new bike.
I'd say stick to the break in plan and look for signs of improvement as the bike aquires miles.
I caution you against using synthetic oil as a fix to help smooth up the shifting. (insert opinion here)
Major parts of the tranny were designed over 20 yrs ago, so I suspect it has a bit of old school clunk in it.
I'd say stick to the break in plan and look for signs of improvement as the bike aquires miles.
I caution you against using synthetic oil as a fix to help smooth up the shifting. (insert opinion here)
Major parts of the tranny were designed over 20 yrs ago, so I suspect it has a bit of old school clunk in it.
Bill Kratzenberg
Well-Known Member
Before i knew better, i used synthetic oil and yes it shifts smoother and it was alot easier to find neutral. The downside is that it cost me a new clutch:bang head: Live & learn i guess:confused2:
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
You can always remove the tranny and have it professionally back cut.Shifts smooth as hell and stays in each gear twice as good.This should be done to any tranny that has lost 2nd gear.I feel that replacing gears with new stock ones is pointless as it will just happen again.
davidon
Well-Known Member
Shawn
What is the easiest way to remove the cylinder water plugs especially since they seem very brittle with age? I tried this on a blown engine but they were so brittle that they did not move and i had to take them out piece by piece (some pieces falling into the block) Would'nt want this to happen with a good engine
Tom
What is the easiest way to remove the cylinder water plugs especially since they seem very brittle with age? I tried this on a blown engine but they were so brittle that they did not move and i had to take them out piece by piece (some pieces falling into the block) Would'nt want this to happen with a good engine
Tom
4gasem
Well-Known Member
What's this have to do with a clunky shift?:ummm: :whistlin: :biglaugh:
I run Shell Rotella T 15W40 in my K6 with only 1600 miles on it and it shifts great!
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
4gasem
Well-Known Member
What kind of oil do you use?:ummm:
davidon
Well-Known Member
davidon
Well-Known Member
4gasem
Well-Known Member
600?? No wonder it clunks... It takes the transmission a few thousand to break in...
I had my oil changed some 3 times by 600... First was at 26 miles. Would have been two put I had the oil pan off so I decided to change it then too... Change it NOW and use the Rotella. It is Diesel engine oil. It is non energy conserving and is high in zinc which is what gives you great shear and impact protection. I did a lot of research on it and came away with nothing but positive thoughts...:thumbs up: I use a Mobile 1 oil filter that I buy from Auto-Zone.
Rotella can be bought at just about any auto parts store and even Wally World... Oh and it's convesional/dino oil...
red98vmax
Well-Known Member
You're not the only one, 1st to 2nd is worse than the others cause of going thru neutral. I read in a book that to shift up, first apply some pressure under the shift lever, not enough to push it out of the current gear, but fairly firm, experiment with the amount of pressure. Then pull the clutch, ease off the throttle some, not much, and firmly and quickly finish the shift into the next higher gear. You should do this always for all gear shifts up.
Sometimes you'll find yourself coasting in neutral traveling at 20-25 MPH. This really shouldn't happen, but sometimes it does. The right thing to do is to slow down/stop so you can put it easily into first gear, cause if you try to go to second, the tranny will grind like a somabitch. I find that if I blip the trottle to 2-2.5 K RPMs quickly that it will slid nicely into second.
Try these things and let us know if they help you. I really don't think you are alone in this and you don't have a malfunctioning bike, but you will if you keep grinding and clunking.
Steve
Sometimes you'll find yourself coasting in neutral traveling at 20-25 MPH. This really shouldn't happen, but sometimes it does. The right thing to do is to slow down/stop so you can put it easily into first gear, cause if you try to go to second, the tranny will grind like a somabitch. I find that if I blip the trottle to 2-2.5 K RPMs quickly that it will slid nicely into second.
Try these things and let us know if they help you. I really don't think you are alone in this and you don't have a malfunctioning bike, but you will if you keep grinding and clunking.
Steve
Great feebback. Thank you and I'm on it! (Changing the oil and experimenting with a little prepolad on the shifter). Hey 4Gasem, I sorta wonder if they use a thinner oil for break-in than what is optimal....
44 magnum
Well-Known Member
Speaking of the pre-load on the shifter, that's is what I do in every gear. The difference being that I don't pull the clutch.
I doubt I'm the only one who does this, but I learned that there's no more effort needed in moving the shifter (when the throttle is "blipped" correctly), as apposed to pulling the clutch and shifting. I still use the clutch to down shift, but in running around town or shifting from the light, I only use the clutch to get out of first. It's very smooth, ultra-quick and very quiet.
Not sure this will help the original question or not. If not, sorry y'all.
I doubt I'm the only one who does this, but I learned that there's no more effort needed in moving the shifter (when the throttle is "blipped" correctly), as apposed to pulling the clutch and shifting. I still use the clutch to down shift, but in running around town or shifting from the light, I only use the clutch to get out of first. It's very smooth, ultra-quick and very quiet.
Not sure this will help the original question or not. If not, sorry y'all.
4gasem
Well-Known Member
In some cases they do do that... Haha I said dodo...:rofl_200:
Mine clunks but not bad... I am comparing it to my SV which is MUCH shorter but clunky as well...
Maybe my idea of ok is different than yours...
I broke my engine in the www.mototuneusa.com way...:thumbs up:
Zewerr
Well-Known Member
I bought my bike with about 2200 miles on it. It's shift smoothly since. If you time everything right, it seems like it should be smooth. I usually take about a half a second to shift. I think it's all about how you let the clutch out and apply the gas.
Wouldn't shifting without the clutch shorten the life of the tranny? I know I do it sometimes, but I usually make it an effort not to.
Wouldn't shifting without the clutch shorten the life of the tranny? I know I do it sometimes, but I usually make it an effort not to.
44 magnum
Well-Known Member
As long as you're matching the RPM's of the next gear right before the shift, there won't be an issue. If you've ever done this in a car/truck it's the same concept. I learned this a long time ago from an old farmer.
The way I started practicing on the bike was using the same pre-load that red98vmax brought up. Before I shifted, I'd just put a little bit of pressure under the shifter. When I was ready to go to the next gear, I just blipped the throttle. I didn't completely get out of it, just enough and the lever just fell right into place. It's incredibly easy on a bike to perform this.
Does anyone else do this out there??
The way I started practicing on the bike was using the same pre-load that red98vmax brought up. Before I shifted, I'd just put a little bit of pressure under the shifter. When I was ready to go to the next gear, I just blipped the throttle. I didn't completely get out of it, just enough and the lever just fell right into place. It's incredibly easy on a bike to perform this.
Does anyone else do this out there??
