Yes , It's a 82 GT . But right now it's got 93 GT dog house with a Cobra R SVO hood . But I still have the original dog house.
Winter Projects
- Thread starter CaptainKyle
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I had a '82 GT with the SROD Mexican iron 4-speed, the OEM 7.9" rear end; I bought a wrecked '88 GT and swapped the parts out, it had a good drivetrain and interior, but had a hard hit on one front-side. That got me a 225 HP V-8 & a B-W T5 5-speed, a 8.8" posi rear end, the interior, and nearly-all the body panels. I had it repainted in the red body/silver bottom, w/the GT rocker panels, hood/nose/lights, and rear spoiler, I added '92 16" wheels. It was more-fun to-drive than a Z-28 or either of two Trans-Am's I had before that. My advice on the body: ditch the ricer-look taillights, replace 'em with LX OEM taillights, and keep the body as-subtle as you can get it w/stock panels. I always liked the dark green the GT's came-with, think a '68 390 GT from Bullitt. The handful of Fox-bodies which came with the Mystic paint-jobs were pretty.
Yes , It's a 82 GT but it's got a 91 to 93 front fender , the wheel well opening is an inch wider for the 16-in pony wheels. With the 87 up GT front end with a Cobra R SVO hood . But I still have the original dog house .
The tail lights we're bought when they were cool I plan on going back to LX tail lights. And all rear ends where 7.5 , till 86 GT. 83 was the first year for a 5 spd , 85 was the first year for roller cam. And every head sucked from 79 to 93 . Unless you got a 93 cobra and they still ain't that great. I've owned this car since 1988. The only thing Ford on this car is the block and rear end and it's a 9-in
I still have the 390 mm txr rims , I blew the 4spd within a couple months of owning it. I did five lug swap ford ranger rotors and passenger axles world class t5 welded spider gear 373s with 100 shot and it was fun as hell. Especially when pophood and had a two barrel. But a lot of people don't know it's a 500 cfm 2 barrel with aluminum intake from the factory.
Steeda is here in Pompano Beach, when the Fox-body was current, you could go buy OEM equipment from them very-cheaply. They built some great cars, and their stuff they fabricated was good, though I never went all-out on a build.
I think you mean TRX and nor txr (wheels/tires). Supposedly the '82 GT was about the fastest thing from Ford at the time, and could run with the contemporary Corvette. That was the last year of the C3. The Ford handling was great with the Michelin tire/wheel package.
I think you mean TRX and nor txr (wheels/tires). Supposedly the '82 GT was about the fastest thing from Ford at the time, and could run with the contemporary Corvette. That was the last year of the C3. The Ford handling was great with the Michelin tire/wheel package.
desert_max
Well-Known Member
Well, in one short month, my priorities have shifted with the wind. Back on page 1 of this thread, I mentioned that I would be engaged with a couple of fuel injected projects this winter. That still may be so, but with my recent Vmax carburetor shenanigans, I figured I was on a roll and would continue down the carburetor path rather than working on the fuel injected stuff.
So… This thing is on the table again! Guess what? Slow Jets plugged. Again. You just look at these things sideways and they plug up. I have to build up my strength for this one though. The motor has to be tipped forward about 4 inches to be able to get the six pack off. That means dropping the chain and the exhaust. It’s doable, and I’ve had enough practice at it, but I have to work myself up to it. Here we go!
By the way, when I put that sticker on my toolbox years ago, I meant it. Now I’m not so sure…
So… This thing is on the table again! Guess what? Slow Jets plugged. Again. You just look at these things sideways and they plug up. I have to build up my strength for this one though. The motor has to be tipped forward about 4 inches to be able to get the six pack off. That means dropping the chain and the exhaust. It’s doable, and I’ve had enough practice at it, but I have to work myself up to it. Here we go!
By the way, when I put that sticker on my toolbox years ago, I meant it. Now I’m not so sure…
Yep them are fun carbs ! (Not) LOL
Parminio
Well-Known Member
I still love carbs as well. Rebuilt a buddies Holly 650 a few months ago pro-bono just to get my hands on one.
Savage99
Well-Known Member
Last year (winter) I went trough most of my ZRX. It was a barn find. Got it running, now I have to paint the body work - possibly this spring. Here is a before and after.
I picked up a1985 Mazda rx7 project for this winter. It is very clean with only 38k miles on it. Hasn't been driven in 16 years. Got it running and now I just have to go through usual stuff.
I picked up a1985 Mazda rx7 project for this winter. It is very clean with only 38k miles on it. Hasn't been driven in 16 years. Got it running and now I just have to go through usual stuff.
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Nice I like the ZRX and the Mazda looks pretty clean to
Savage99
Well-Known Member
Thanks Kyle, I am enjoying that little Chevy Luv project of yours.
The ZRX was a true barn find... dirt, mice and spiders got into every nook and cranny on the bike. Took everything off replaced hoses, lines, gaskets and fluids for just about everything. I had the frame and some of the black parts powder coated. Adjusted valves, jetted it with new exhaust and now just doing some final adjustments and working bugs out.
The Mazda is very clean and just needs to have similar stuff done to hoses, gaskets, carbs, brakes, etc... should be fun.
I am looking forward to more of everyones updates
The ZRX was a true barn find... dirt, mice and spiders got into every nook and cranny on the bike. Took everything off replaced hoses, lines, gaskets and fluids for just about everything. I had the frame and some of the black parts powder coated. Adjusted valves, jetted it with new exhaust and now just doing some final adjustments and working bugs out.
The Mazda is very clean and just needs to have similar stuff done to hoses, gaskets, carbs, brakes, etc... should be fun.
I am looking forward to more of everyones updates
My next-door neighbor has a early 2000's ZRX. He starts it once a week, if he's not riding it. I offered to exercise it for him. I also referred him to my friend who does all-sorts of work on bikes. Even doing maintenance on stock bikes.
I was looking at CL today, and saw a Craftsman ball-bearing 5-drawer toolbox for cheap, I saw he'd just-listed it, and I was 1st in-line, I bought it. He'd spray-bombed it and it needed some TLC, but I bought it for < 20% of the similar Craftsman ball-bearing toolbox, new. 26" W X 20" H X 16" D. I didn't even-try to negotiate, as I saw the current similar Craftsman listing is $220. A bit of attention to the ball-bearing slides, and the drawers and the top-lock, and, 'Bob's yer uncle." It even had the owner's manual in the top compartment. It also had a box of stainless steel 1/4" hex-head machine screws in the locked top-box, which would cost about $20 at your friendly Ace Hardware.
https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-19...cphy=9011860&hvtargid=pla-1053513659667&psc=1
I love bargains.
I was looking at CL today, and saw a Craftsman ball-bearing 5-drawer toolbox for cheap, I saw he'd just-listed it, and I was 1st in-line, I bought it. He'd spray-bombed it and it needed some TLC, but I bought it for < 20% of the similar Craftsman ball-bearing toolbox, new. 26" W X 20" H X 16" D. I didn't even-try to negotiate, as I saw the current similar Craftsman listing is $220. A bit of attention to the ball-bearing slides, and the drawers and the top-lock, and, 'Bob's yer uncle." It even had the owner's manual in the top compartment. It also had a box of stainless steel 1/4" hex-head machine screws in the locked top-box, which would cost about $20 at your friendly Ace Hardware.
https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-19...cphy=9011860&hvtargid=pla-1053513659667&psc=1
I love bargains.
Parminio
Well-Known Member
That looks sort of like the bottom of the red Craftsman toolbox I bought back when we bought our house back in 2003 (except mine has wheels on it). It was on sale for 250 dollars for both boxes.
(yeah, yeah, yeah. It's dirty. The entire garage is except where my Vmax sits. Gotta do spring cleaning.)
(yeah, yeah, yeah. It's dirty. The entire garage is except where my Vmax sits. Gotta do spring cleaning.)
That is actually the top box. It's 16" deep, while the 'homeowner's' top boxes are usually 12" deep.
Does your toolbox have plastic side handles? That's common for the lower-specification Craftsman boxes. The thicker-metal construction has the extruded aluminum side handles and the ball-bearing drawer slides, instead of plastic side handles and plain metal drawer slides, held in-place with spring clips. Kennedy used a similar plain-metal drawer slide design for their machinists' chests, the brown crinkle-paint ones.
The 'homeowner'-spec Craftsman boxes also had plain-metal drawer pulls, while the better-quality ones had extruded-aluminum full-width handles which slid-over the sheet-metal pull contour of each drawer, ball-bearing slides, and a pair of back-of-the-drawer latch pieces which secured the drawers once the top lid was closed. The 'homeowner'-spec cabinets also used flat sides to the lower chest, and a front slide-in bar to lock the drawers shut while the mechanic's ones used box-section sides with a dropped center piece, and that double-bar internal drawer locking mechanism.
Does your toolbox have plastic side handles? That's common for the lower-specification Craftsman boxes. The thicker-metal construction has the extruded aluminum side handles and the ball-bearing drawer slides, instead of plastic side handles and plain metal drawer slides, held in-place with spring clips. Kennedy used a similar plain-metal drawer slide design for their machinists' chests, the brown crinkle-paint ones.
The 'homeowner'-spec Craftsman boxes also had plain-metal drawer pulls, while the better-quality ones had extruded-aluminum full-width handles which slid-over the sheet-metal pull contour of each drawer, ball-bearing slides, and a pair of back-of-the-drawer latch pieces which secured the drawers once the top lid was closed. The 'homeowner'-spec cabinets also used flat sides to the lower chest, and a front slide-in bar to lock the drawers shut while the mechanic's ones used box-section sides with a dropped center piece, and that double-bar internal drawer locking mechanism.
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Parminio
Well-Known Member
The black handles are painted metal. Yeah, it's 12 inches deep and the bottom Is around 18 I think. The only plastic on it is that top black piece that holds the plastic storage bins (that's all detachable) and the pop-out storage bins of the top box (same). The steel lock rods are in the top with the keys. I've never used them.
Sears made good values for the $, you're proof of that. They have lasted you well.
I made my bumper and turn signal mounts and got them installed. It is not done yet but I can drive it again . I will get it out tomorrow and take pictures of the whole thing.
I am usually a fan of the OEM overall look, so when things are closely-resembling the factory appearance, it looks better to me. The LUV is lookin' good, I'm waiting for your pics.
