Ojref
Well-Known Member
I've got the FJR master installed, and have been attempting to bleed for the last 2 days with no good results. It doesn't seem to engage the clutch until almost near stop.
FJR Clutch master does not seem to be able to actuate the clutch slave very well.
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If you haven't already you need to try and install a braided brake line. The extra pressure will make the lines swell with stock lines. I've had similar problems with getting the FJR to work too with stock lines in place.
Sean
Sean
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Are you using anything like a MityVac to bleed the line or are you just pump the clutch lever? Also masters should be "bench bled" before you install them.
Ojref
Well-Known Member
I ordered a SS clutch line from 58Cycle today. As soon as I get it on, I'll post the results.
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I've always been taught to bench bleed new masters to eliminate air out of them first before installing them in the system. Mind you this is from working on cars but I carried it over on to bikes. Basically you place the MC in a vice and install a short brake cable so that it loops back into the fluid reservoir of the MC. Fill the MC with brake fluid and proceed bleeding this closed loop system. When you stop seeing bubbles coming from the hose, the MC has been bled. Then you install it on the bike/car. I think the theory behind it is too eliminate as much air as possible before bleeding a fresh system.
You just use the lever to bleed the system then? I have new brake calipers to install and figured I would wait until I get SS lines. Thanks Buster.
Mark
#1098
Mark
#1098
I have heard of this from a couple different people, including a close friend of mine. All of the people that I have heard complaints from were never able to get the master to work the way it should, It was NOT a bleeding problem.
In regards to R1 calipers, I know you didnt ask, but thought I would mention it, you should use the FJR brake master. The FJR master and R1 caliper have the same diameter bore.
In regards to R1 calipers, I know you didnt ask, but thought I would mention it, you should use the FJR brake master. The FJR master and R1 caliper have the same diameter bore.
Ojref
Well-Known Member
I've replaced the clutch line with a Galfer SS to no avail. The pull is just as bad as the stock line. This is pretty damn disappointing, whoever suggested the FJR master as a replacement :damn angry::bang head:
I must apologize. It has worked fine for me and others and I don't know what the difference would be.
Sean
Sean
I've read the thread in which you describe the FJR master cylinder issue.
I notice that your bike is a 1991 (stock for now) model.
When was the last time you serviced the Slave Cylinder of the clutch line?
I have recently experienced a slipping clutch and it turned out to be the seals in the slave cylinder had degraded over time. Sitting in brake fluid for all those years causes them to swell, soften deposit sticky stuff on the walls of the cylinder. This, combined with road grime and corrosion can prevent the piston from releasing properly.
As it begins to bind up, the clutch will take up further and further toward the end of the travel in the clutch lever. Eventually the lever will look fully released but the piston won't be and the clutch will slip.
Changing master cylinders and lines will not fix this problem.
The slave cylinder kit is about $20.
The FJR master cylinder is the best choice for your application.
I wouldn't even bother with the slave kit and would just replace the entire slave cylinder. I have an '89 and no matter how many times you change the clutch fluid it'll go bad with age and it's happened to me.
Mark
#1098
Mark
#1098
Ojref
Well-Known Member
I ordered an entire Clutch hydraulic slave assembly. Has anybody replaced this unit before? I think if I took the side cover off it would still be blocked by the driveshaft output.. :ummm:
davidon
Well-Known Member
I think if you just take the middle gear cover off it is held in place by a couple of bolts..someone confirm this?
davidon
Well-Known Member
OK
it's in the Haynes manual..2 bolts hold it in
it's in the Haynes manual..2 bolts hold it in
Ojref
Well-Known Member
Hi all,
Just wanted to report that clutching action is pretty good with the FJR + galfer line + new slave cylinder. It appears the slave piston was binding mid stroke. It would return properly but would bind before the clutch would engage. The pull is great, somewhat tough now with the Double D mod - but the clutch doesn't slip at all, not one iota. This along with changing the oil to Delo 15-40 made shifting action as smooth as a sportsbike. Thanks to everyone for their advice and help!
Just wanted to report that clutching action is pretty good with the FJR + galfer line + new slave cylinder. It appears the slave piston was binding mid stroke. It would return properly but would bind before the clutch would engage. The pull is great, somewhat tough now with the Double D mod - but the clutch doesn't slip at all, not one iota. This along with changing the oil to Delo 15-40 made shifting action as smooth as a sportsbike. Thanks to everyone for their advice and help!
awesome. Yes, most do not realize just how much the clutch slips with the stock setup.
Sean
Sean
