I will fast forward some.....an aftermarket air filter came loose while the truck was running. She doesn't know how many times she tried restarting. She said she pumped the gas peddle(a lot). Truck now fires up but.....it wont stay running. Could it be that flooded? I tried starting a day later. Dump the oil and try again? Advice welcome.Chad
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Modern fuel injected 5.3's don't flood from pumping the pedal. If the engine is not turning over there is no fuel being injected into it. Might have had the fuel pump go bad.
NO. It can't be THAT flooded. More info on vehicle please. Fuel injected?
Bad gas? Fuel pump delivering correct pressure? Fuel filter ever been changed out?
How to test fuel pressure vid here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53w5v7CHpCQ
Check this site for some common fueling issues: http://www.autorepairinstructions.com/?p=224
Bad gas? Fuel pump delivering correct pressure? Fuel filter ever been changed out?
How to test fuel pressure vid here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53w5v7CHpCQ
Check this site for some common fueling issues: http://www.autorepairinstructions.com/?p=224
Ah...hem, Sean, if the engine is not turning over, there is probably a problem with the battery or electrical system someplace. :ummm:
I think what you mean to say is "If the engine is not firing over, .....". But I do agree, there's a big chance this fuel pump has gone bad. :biglaugh:
In fact, sometimes, if this is a tank mounted fuel pump, a person can get lucky by simply pounding on the tank a couple/three times. This will on a rare occasion cause the pump to 'unstick' long enough to get into a shop for proper replacement. This actually happened with Shala's 01 Silverado at the gas pumps one time, and to my surprise, a bystander walked up, saw what our difficulty was, and proceeded to throw himself to the pavement right then and there and deliver two good wallups to the tank. He then stands back up and says "there, try it again." F'ing worked!
All I gotta say is, if a person drops one of those tanks by him/herself, don't forget to disconnect the damn ground strap up next to the fuel inlet nozzle. It can be kinda hidden when disconnected everything else up there for the drop. When the tank comes down, you will rip the OEM electrical ends off the strap, and have to go in search of a new strap. (don't ask me how I know that.)
sdt354
Well-Known Member
What is the fuel pressure?
Pardon me, but wouldn't that right there would be an excellant indicator of a failing fuel pump. Not a stuck pump, mind you, but it could be an exceptionally weak pump not delivering the correct pressure to keep up with a running motor. :confused2:
It, for sure, could indicate chitty gasoline.
tugla
Well-Known Member
fuel pressure reg goes on those...cheap easy to chg... pull the vavume hose off and if there is fuel in the line its shot.
also I'd chg that aftermarket filter.....the oil clogs up the mass air sensor and makes idle weird.....reg paper and clean the sensor......but as mentioned do a fuel pressure test....I forget the number but should be 50 or 60 +\- 1 psi
also I'd chg that aftermarket filter.....the oil clogs up the mass air sensor and makes idle weird.....reg paper and clean the sensor......but as mentioned do a fuel pressure test....I forget the number but should be 50 or 60 +\- 1 psi
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
Makes sense...especially with the air cleaner becoming dislodged.
Although the IAC is supposed to last the vehicle's lifetime, various reasons may cause it to fail/malfunction prematurely. The most common failure mode is partial/complete jamming of the valve (due to dirt/dust or even oil) where it cannot be smoothly controlled. The result is an engine that idles very rough and frequently stalls. A valve that is only jammed may be restored simply by cleaning it. However a valve that has stopped working due to a fault in its solenoid will need replacement
Although the IAC is supposed to last the vehicle's lifetime, various reasons may cause it to fail/malfunction prematurely. The most common failure mode is partial/complete jamming of the valve (due to dirt/dust or even oil) where it cannot be smoothly controlled. The result is an engine that idles very rough and frequently stalls. A valve that is only jammed may be restored simply by cleaning it. However a valve that has stopped working due to a fault in its solenoid will need replacement
adambweird
Well-Known Member
It should trip a fault, my cutlass did when it went out and that was on an '87. If its just sticking or gummed up and moving wrong it wont trip a fault in most cases. Id remove n clean the IAC first, but its really sounding like a fuel pump to me.
I can see a dirty IAC valve causing a rough idle, but wouldn't think it would prevent the engine from running better as more throttle was applied. I had one on my old 96 Caddy that began causing rough idle (140k miles), and got by with a partial disassembly and pressurized carb cleaner to correct the situation.
If the vehicle has a MAF sensor, I suppose it could be seriously fubarring after warmup.
I had a crank sensor on my old Riviera start giving grief one time. It would cut out at weird times, then run great for days. The car would hardly pull itself down the road when the sensor was screwing off. Then clear up. A couple of times, it flat killed the car and wouldn't restart for minutes. That one was a beotch to diagnose, not to mention the aggrevation in traffic.
If the vehicle has a MAF sensor, I suppose it could be seriously fubarring after warmup.
I had a crank sensor on my old Riviera start giving grief one time. It would cut out at weird times, then run great for days. The car would hardly pull itself down the road when the sensor was screwing off. Then clear up. A couple of times, it flat killed the car and wouldn't restart for minutes. That one was a beotch to diagnose, not to mention the aggrevation in traffic.
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
My 2010 3/4 ton chevy service van with a 4.8 (What a pig, so glad to be in a real pickup now) had the IAC valve go bad and it immediately threw a fault code.
But it didn't effect drive ability or exhibit any symptoms, just kept throwing a CEL light. It could be reset and would come back within 30 miles or less.
But it didn't effect drive ability or exhibit any symptoms, just kept throwing a CEL light. It could be reset and would come back within 30 miles or less.
fmcandrew
Well-Known Member
My 2001 5.3L Tahoe will not stay running without the air snorkel attached to the throttle body...sad but true...
twistedmax
Well-Known Member
Blocked cat?
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
That's cause the air flow sensor is located at the end of that hose closer to the filter box than to the throttle body. Disconnect the hose at the throttle body and there's no air flow through the upstream sensor. So the engine management system doesn't have a clue how much fuel to add
twistedmax
Well-Known Member
A "bad cat code" or a lean code ue to encreased flow? I had a plugged cat that would act similiar at times.Just grasping at straws:confused2:
