If you are only getting into the trans then I would only suggest maybe stuff like DD clutch, Solid motor mounts and HD oiling.
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Redbone
Well-Known Member
+1 and you may want Sean undercut your gears as well. :thumbs up:
symptom ... pops outa second...
which gear(s) are the offending gears?
looking at the trans see a tad o wear on a couple gears... looks like more wear in one corner on each dog... Im thinking these must be high spots and dogs engage with about half or so of the mating surface actually in contact..
this is noted on #3&4 gears on the smaller shaft
which gear(s) are the offending gears?
looking at the trans see a tad o wear on a couple gears... looks like more wear in one corner on each dog... Im thinking these must be high spots and dogs engage with about half or so of the mating surface actually in contact..
this is noted on #3&4 gears on the smaller shaft
The smallest gear on that primary shaft (the shorter one) will be first gear. 2nd gear and 3rd gear are connected together (1 physical part). 2nd gear engages into 5th gear (the farthest outboard gear by the bearing). If the edges of the dogs are smoothed/rounded off then that's the problem. You'll probably see one edge is nice and sharp (or almost) and the other side that is worn. They should be the same.
I could send the info via PM but it's easier for me to keep track of by email. So, please shoot me a note and I can reply back to you with address/info.
Sean
[email protected]
I could send the info via PM but it's easier for me to keep track of by email. So, please shoot me a note and I can reply back to you with address/info.
Sean
[email protected]
Without seeing them I would not be certain that those are the only ones you need but those are the most commonly worn gears. I would still suggest to undercut them but I actually have them new on hand if you want to go that route. I suggest the undercut because you get a better trans then one done in a production environment. Basically, a production gear set has allowed tolerances so that you can simply swap parts around to make them work. A professionally undercut set is mated to more exacting tolerances.
Sean
Sean
under normal circumstances I would definately be doing the undercut trans, unfortunately the past couple of years have not been normal and I am finding myself with a budget issue on this resto project. so basically I need to get from a to b with the least possible $$.
Im thinking replace gears with new.
first ones lasted 19k ... thatl' work for me. Im not thinking of this one as one to mile up. Im thinking restore to like new codition, ride occasionally, and keep in garage with a cover on her. It is only one of a very few super early originals.
how much for the gears?
also wondering about the shim pack... those super thin meal ones that go on the largest bearing of the large gear assembly. the seller said his son had R&R'd the motor and replaced shift fork. clearly he had..... those were crushed between the casehalfs and were bent severly... I think those also should be replaced. there are two on it..
Im thinking replace gears with new.
first ones lasted 19k ... thatl' work for me. Im not thinking of this one as one to mile up. Im thinking restore to like new codition, ride occasionally, and keep in garage with a cover on her. It is only one of a very few super early originals.
how much for the gears?
also wondering about the shim pack... those super thin meal ones that go on the largest bearing of the large gear assembly. the seller said his son had R&R'd the motor and replaced shift fork. clearly he had..... those were crushed between the casehalfs and were bent severly... I think those also should be replaced. there are two on it..
Looking at $127 for the 2/3 gear and $92 for 5th gear.
You really need to inspect the rest of the gears over very closely. That's more what I am worried about. Many of the other gears will have wear on them and though they aren't popping out right now they may very well start within an unknown distance after you put it back together. If there is a significant amount of wear there (or you want to be a little cheaper too) I can probably sell you a Venture trans for a lot less then the undercut. I am going through my inventory right now and have 2 later model versions which had thicker gears (same as the Vmax) but the 2nd gear is the same as the very early vmax setup. This isn't normally an issue and the gear itself is actually stronger then the regular vmax gears. I have not looked them over completely but I think I have at least one good one. I'm going to be selling them on ebay or you can have one for $100. First gear is a little "quicker" and fifth gear is slightly more overdrive (like 2% different). 2nd 3rd and 4th are the same.
Look at the bump areas of the shift drum and make sure they are nice and smooth still. You should not be able to barely tell where the forks were traveling along them.
I probably have the shims you need but will need to know the thicknesses. They varied considerably. You can likely bend them partially straight and continue to use them without any issues. When I get one like that we bend it back straight and then rotate the shim so that it makes it sit outward away from the case.
Back out the retaining bolts (large countersunk bolts with torxs bit) and then shift the shaft outward (everything will stay in place and let the main shaft and bearing shift over. This lets you have more room when going back together so you don't smash the shim again.
Sean
You really need to inspect the rest of the gears over very closely. That's more what I am worried about. Many of the other gears will have wear on them and though they aren't popping out right now they may very well start within an unknown distance after you put it back together. If there is a significant amount of wear there (or you want to be a little cheaper too) I can probably sell you a Venture trans for a lot less then the undercut. I am going through my inventory right now and have 2 later model versions which had thicker gears (same as the Vmax) but the 2nd gear is the same as the very early vmax setup. This isn't normally an issue and the gear itself is actually stronger then the regular vmax gears. I have not looked them over completely but I think I have at least one good one. I'm going to be selling them on ebay or you can have one for $100. First gear is a little "quicker" and fifth gear is slightly more overdrive (like 2% different). 2nd 3rd and 4th are the same.
Look at the bump areas of the shift drum and make sure they are nice and smooth still. You should not be able to barely tell where the forks were traveling along them.
I probably have the shims you need but will need to know the thicknesses. They varied considerably. You can likely bend them partially straight and continue to use them without any issues. When I get one like that we bend it back straight and then rotate the shim so that it makes it sit outward away from the case.
Back out the retaining bolts (large countersunk bolts with torxs bit) and then shift the shaft outward (everything will stay in place and let the main shaft and bearing shift over. This lets you have more room when going back together so you don't smash the shim again.
Sean
John, I missed your call. Call me again if you want. I did find enough good gears (at least good enough gears) to put together 2 of the stronger venture transmissions. If you are interested definitely email me with your information.
The other one is also spoken for I believe too. I think I have a few other venture transmissions with the thinner gears (they are not all thinner). I'm planning on posting them on ebay for $50-$75 plus shipping. I would not suggest these transmissions though we have built a few 1300 conversions using them and haven't really had any issues.
Sean
The other one is also spoken for I believe too. I think I have a few other venture transmissions with the thinner gears (they are not all thinner). I'm planning on posting them on ebay for $50-$75 plus shipping. I would not suggest these transmissions though we have built a few 1300 conversions using them and haven't really had any issues.
Sean
my day job has me sitting in a black hole for cell phones so you may need to try after 2:30 central time.
i still refuse to believe in said "day job"
Redbone
Well-Known Member
:rofl_200:
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