I read something about being able to adjust the VBoost setting. Is this possible and what if anything would it do to the engine wear or fuel economy? Also what are my options for upgrading the exhaust with out having to go through a huge hassle with jetting or air issues?
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Well-Known Member
Buy a t-boost kit if you want to adjust the vboost setting. http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/TBoost.htm
Vboost on all the time or on at 3K rpm may make you a little rich in the mid range and lower your fuel economy a little.
I put a full Marks exhaust on the bike and ran it for awhile without changing jet. I played with the A/F screws a little. Ran pretty good. It got a lot better after jetting it properly though.
Its not hard nor expensive. A couple set of jets (147.5 and 150) and some needle shims will run about $25 or so.
Vboost on all the time or on at 3K rpm may make you a little rich in the mid range and lower your fuel economy a little.
I put a full Marks exhaust on the bike and ran it for awhile without changing jet. I played with the A/F screws a little. Ran pretty good. It got a lot better after jetting it properly though.
Its not hard nor expensive. A couple set of jets (147.5 and 150) and some needle shims will run about $25 or so.
The SASY works well for adjusting the V Boost also....it allows you a wide variety of rpm settings, or an off position also.
Some full systems can be installed without anything more than a little A/F screw adjust....I also have the Marks, all stock jetting, pulled 117 hp on the dyno.
Some full systems can be installed without anything more than a little A/F screw adjust....I also have the Marks, all stock jetting, pulled 117 hp on the dyno.
Super Trapp Slip Ons, if you don't want to drop the money for a full system. I haven't messed with the Vboost,,,,, yet...
Handling would be at the top of my list with a new build. Huge room for improvement over all stock components... Good Luck..
Handling would be at the top of my list with a new build. Huge room for improvement over all stock components... Good Luck..
Miles Long
Well-Known Member
First thing you should buy, before any mods.......
A service manual. Either O.E.M., Haynes, or Clymer.
This will prove to be the most useful $30-$40.00 spent on your bike. Trust me.
Cheers!
A service manual. Either O.E.M., Haynes, or Clymer.
This will prove to be the most useful $30-$40.00 spent on your bike. Trust me.
Cheers!
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
+1 with the service manual. after securing one or two, then working out your handling is first in my book. this includes, not in any particular order and not limited to:
next i would work out the brakes
next i would work on the clutch
- handlebars
- front and rear suspension
- front
- progressive rates springs (Progressive Suspension and Racetechs are favorites in this forum)
- cartridge emulators (Ractech and Intimators? are favorites)
- lower
- USDs
- rear
- i haven't research this mod enough yet, so i don't know the choices except that you've got Progressive Suspension's and some piggy-back ones by another manufacturer
- front
- tires and wheels
- if stay with stock wheels, then your limited to bias-plys.
- Shinko Tourmasters and Metzeler ME880s are favorites here
- You can stick a wider tire on the rear (170/80-15)
- if you want radials then you need to change out the wheels. there are a couple paths you can take for radials:
- keep the front stock and send your rear stock out to someone like Kosmon and widen it, or
- dump the coin into a new set
- if stay with stock wheels, then your limited to bias-plys.
- frame strengthening
- solid motor mounts
- torque bar
- frame plates
- hmmmm what else....
next i would work out the brakes
- change out the front calipers with R1/R6 4-pots
- since your have an '85, you are able to consider hayabusa 6-pots for the front
- change out the rear caliper with a stock 4-pot
- if you change out the calipers, then you really ought to use a 14mm master cylinder (FJR1300 is the choice master, if you can find one)
- change out the rotors (Galfer seems to be a favorite, as well as the Chinese Arashis sold on ebay)
- put in some EBC HH pads
- stainless steel braided hydraulic lines
next i would work on the clutch
- DD mod, PCW HD mod, or Barnett Spring Conversion
- if you do one of these mods, then you should consider 14mm master
- stainless steel braided hydraulic line
- hole mod
- full-up or slip-ons
- if you go full up then Stage 7 or Morley Muscle intake kit
- if slip ons, maybe those intake kit, or basic rejetting
- battery
- Odyssey seems to be the choice
- Morley's got a "fat battery"
- COPs
- Dynatec 3000 ignition box
- turn signals
- smaller ones if the lollipops aren't doing it for ya
- LEDs to lighten the load
- tail light
- eliminate the box with something like a CBR600's
- LEDs to lighten the load
- R/R upgrade
- R/R to battery direct connect
- Powder coat
- Chrome
- nano-scale pigment induced primer followed with a couple coats of low-friction, humidity-coupling, molecularly-stranded should shave a couple seconds of your traps (black of course)
WOW!!! I have some work to do and some money to make!! Ninjaneer has given me a grocery list! hahaha I actually have some of this done. The upgraded clutch the hydrolic lines and the brakes and tires. I have the ME880 set on it now and just called my rep at Parts Unlimited with a list of other stuff also ordered another set of tires just to have them around. The brakes are an interesting project I would have never thought of going with Busa but the R1 calipers would have eventually come up Im sure.
I was going to order the gel battery but am looking into Li-Ion has anyone else done this. I have a buddy that put one in his Moto Guzzi and it is amazing plus it weighs nothing. I want to keep the original ( if it is) paint cause my girl likes the way it changes colors in the different lights, it is dark blue in low light turns purple in bright sun and then black in the dark. Was this a stock paint for this year?
The front suspension I ordered a progressive kit.
The other thing I am seeing is an issue with is my cooling system. Not sure what it is but my bike starts to get hot while sitting at idle in traffic. Noticed it today while my GF and I were riding. It isnt over heating but it gets up there to the line and Im not a fan of that.. Should I look into an oil cooler? or radiator flush? t-stat issues? any pointers there would be welcome.
thanks for everything so far.
hahahaha I read a post earlier that someone said that rings true...bring you wallet and work some overtime because the mods are expensive but worth it!
I was going to order the gel battery but am looking into Li-Ion has anyone else done this. I have a buddy that put one in his Moto Guzzi and it is amazing plus it weighs nothing. I want to keep the original ( if it is) paint cause my girl likes the way it changes colors in the different lights, it is dark blue in low light turns purple in bright sun and then black in the dark. Was this a stock paint for this year?
The front suspension I ordered a progressive kit.
The other thing I am seeing is an issue with is my cooling system. Not sure what it is but my bike starts to get hot while sitting at idle in traffic. Noticed it today while my GF and I were riding. It isnt over heating but it gets up there to the line and Im not a fan of that.. Should I look into an oil cooler? or radiator flush? t-stat issues? any pointers there would be welcome.
thanks for everything so far.
hahahaha I read a post earlier that someone said that rings true...bring you wallet and work some overtime because the mods are expensive but worth it!
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
I'd flush it out first, maybe there's some gunk in the lines blocking flow.
There is a "cherry" of an oil cooler that would plain trick out the Max, but the guys here say that that's the only benefit. read this thread: Oil cooler
Look into the manual fan override. You could change out the thermoswitch with one that kicks the fan on earlier in the temp range. (I've got one in my project closet, if you're interested). Here are some threads to look into:
overheat/stall
How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan switch?
Fan Override Cooling Switch
V-Max overheating?
Fan override switch question
Thermo switches to solve overheating
Overheating?
" ninjaneer" gave you a good place to start. You can use the search function for ea. of those mods and see what results others have had, who sells the parts for the best $, and associated changes others may have tried and/or discarded.
I am not sure about your paint being stock, but it sounds like the "Mystic" paint which is an advanced type of what used to be called, 'flip-flop,' but I am sure one of the more-knowlegable body-shop guys may be able to inform you about that. I think PPG was the first to use the "Mystic" moniker. When they offered it originally, it was an option on Ford Mustang H-P cars, and the only way it was sold was thru the PPG dealer and then only enough for the work which had to be done, plus it was v expensive! That was years ago and I assume it is now available w/o having to show your paint code at the shop to be allowed to buy just enough for your repair. That was the way they kept it exclusive for its rollout.
The best VMax is a stock one, because then you get to make it as you want. I think the bike takes a lot of criticism because it does use older technology. Updating to newest tires ($ wheel or wheels required!) in radials is probably the biggest handling change you can make. For the budget-conscious, Progressive Suspensions front & rear should make the suspension mpre-compliant. Slapping-on some better calipers & HH-specification pads will help the braking, but research first, as you likely will need min. 298 mm later-model discs. An advantage there for a single-pot earlier model owner is that you can re-purpose one of those setups from the front in the rear. Ebay or a local craigslist search will show you what's available for replacement discs & rotors, or master cylinders.
That's it for the suspension cheap (?) fixes, the replacement rear wheel won't be cheap but you will be able to run radials which will give you the best bang for the $ in handling dynamics from what I have read. I bought a bare rear wheel that is going to my machinist if he can do it for less than Kosman. It looks like a 5.5" rear rim is a good choice w/o having to remove & notch the swingarm.
Because it is early 1980's tech, the motor responds to intake & exhaust mods done correctly, but this is alone about the same $ amount as you just spent on your suspension/brakes/replacement rear wheel/tire(s). A new exhaust full system and stage 7 kit w/individual air filter pods & the breather system is going to set you back well-over $1K if you do the work yourself.
As you can see, these are significant $ investments especially if you bought a $2500 VMax. You can easily double your investment just by doing what I described above, and there is so-much more which you can do!
My suggestion is to make sure the stock bike is working well at first, get some mileage under your belt, and then you can take your credit card and prioritize your expenditures according to what is most in-need of improvement to suit your riding needs. I think this is the best way to approach it, rather than just spending $5K and being disappointed that your bike designed in the early 1980's doesn't perform like a modern literbike! And that $5K? You can spend that on motor mods by itself, ask Sean Morley or PCW in NY. If that's what you think you want, then save your $ and buy a Generation 2 and get a warranty in the deal, oh yes, MSRP is close to $20 K! A used one may not have a warranty but will be cheaper, by a bit. Figure on $14-18K.
Hope this helps, use the search function here to research your $ choices before you start spending thousands of dollars, and remember, judicious planning can result in significant improvements in-line with your budget, and riding preferences. Happy hunting.
I am not sure about your paint being stock, but it sounds like the "Mystic" paint which is an advanced type of what used to be called, 'flip-flop,' but I am sure one of the more-knowlegable body-shop guys may be able to inform you about that. I think PPG was the first to use the "Mystic" moniker. When they offered it originally, it was an option on Ford Mustang H-P cars, and the only way it was sold was thru the PPG dealer and then only enough for the work which had to be done, plus it was v expensive! That was years ago and I assume it is now available w/o having to show your paint code at the shop to be allowed to buy just enough for your repair. That was the way they kept it exclusive for its rollout.
The best VMax is a stock one, because then you get to make it as you want. I think the bike takes a lot of criticism because it does use older technology. Updating to newest tires ($ wheel or wheels required!) in radials is probably the biggest handling change you can make. For the budget-conscious, Progressive Suspensions front & rear should make the suspension mpre-compliant. Slapping-on some better calipers & HH-specification pads will help the braking, but research first, as you likely will need min. 298 mm later-model discs. An advantage there for a single-pot earlier model owner is that you can re-purpose one of those setups from the front in the rear. Ebay or a local craigslist search will show you what's available for replacement discs & rotors, or master cylinders.
That's it for the suspension cheap (?) fixes, the replacement rear wheel won't be cheap but you will be able to run radials which will give you the best bang for the $ in handling dynamics from what I have read. I bought a bare rear wheel that is going to my machinist if he can do it for less than Kosman. It looks like a 5.5" rear rim is a good choice w/o having to remove & notch the swingarm.
Because it is early 1980's tech, the motor responds to intake & exhaust mods done correctly, but this is alone about the same $ amount as you just spent on your suspension/brakes/replacement rear wheel/tire(s). A new exhaust full system and stage 7 kit w/individual air filter pods & the breather system is going to set you back well-over $1K if you do the work yourself.
As you can see, these are significant $ investments especially if you bought a $2500 VMax. You can easily double your investment just by doing what I described above, and there is so-much more which you can do!
My suggestion is to make sure the stock bike is working well at first, get some mileage under your belt, and then you can take your credit card and prioritize your expenditures according to what is most in-need of improvement to suit your riding needs. I think this is the best way to approach it, rather than just spending $5K and being disappointed that your bike designed in the early 1980's doesn't perform like a modern literbike! And that $5K? You can spend that on motor mods by itself, ask Sean Morley or PCW in NY. If that's what you think you want, then save your $ and buy a Generation 2 and get a warranty in the deal, oh yes, MSRP is close to $20 K! A used one may not have a warranty but will be cheaper, by a bit. Figure on $14-18K.
Hope this helps, use the search function here to research your $ choices before you start spending thousands of dollars, and remember, judicious planning can result in significant improvements in-line with your budget, and riding preferences. Happy hunting.
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ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
+1 fire-medic.
yep, i consider the mentioned mods as the "basic"/"essential"/"entry" mods that the Monkey just absolutely loves and most folks are willing to appease him with. But hold on to your cojones, because there are some wild ass blinging going around here. Here's a list of the members who have been recognized for their amazing work: Bling award Hit them up for some pics or talk. I'm sure they be more than happy to show their "Max"es to ya. hahahahaha Dare I say Carb Chains?
yep, i consider the mentioned mods as the "basic"/"essential"/"entry" mods that the Monkey just absolutely loves and most folks are willing to appease him with. But hold on to your cojones, because there are some wild ass blinging going around here. Here's a list of the members who have been recognized for their amazing work: Bling award Hit them up for some pics or talk. I'm sure they be more than happy to show their "Max"es to ya. hahahahaha Dare I say Carb Chains?
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Klatuu
Well-Known Member
Lots of good advice here, something I don't see yet is get a better seat. If you get your bike running and handling like you want, you're probably going to want to ride it more. Unless your ass is concave, the shape of the stock seat is awful. There are several alternatives that improve the comfort drastically. I've tried a Corbin & a Morley's Muscle seat. I liked the Corbin fine, as it's plenty wide and I have long legs, so it actually helped with leg reach. However, it aint pretty to my eyes. Morely's seat enhances the original styling cues, has a quality fit & finish, and is very comfortable.
Rollie
Well-Known Member
You have at least 5 vendors to peruse for seats here. You can also have a local upholster re-do what you have with new foam , leather , piping , etc.
The blue '90 has a custom , leather , hard upholsters foam , expanded seating area for passenger and rider for those longer rides. We rode last year at the Dragon and then took the long way back to our cabin on top of a mountain , just outside of Gatlinburg , TN. We were in the saddle fo over 8 hours during the day , and we were both pretty tired ( and got wet too ) , but our butts were not numb ! LOL
The blue '90 has a custom , leather , hard upholsters foam , expanded seating area for passenger and rider for those longer rides. We rode last year at the Dragon and then took the long way back to our cabin on top of a mountain , just outside of Gatlinburg , TN. We were in the saddle fo over 8 hours during the day , and we were both pretty tired ( and got wet too ) , but our butts were not numb ! LOL
Attachments
Rollie;218474 said:Well after 60 miles me and my girl are both not as happy as we were when we left. And who wants to responsible for a hurt a butt like hers?!?!!!!
Im not sure if I can post pics of her like this but its a butt!!
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
Well after 60 miles me and my girl are both not as happy as we were when we left. And who wants to responsible for a hurt a butt like hers?!?!!!!
Im not sure if I can post pics of her like this but its a butt!!
If redbone can get away with his avatars then.....unless ur sayin that ur girl must give permission....hahahhaha
regards from my tapatalking android...
Nope she is totally fine with it. Hell she doesnt wear much more when we go for our evening rides out in the country together.
I told her about the Corbin I ordered and she is almost as excited as I am. I cannot wait to get it on my bike. I have a club ride next week to a rally in the Hill Country that should proove its worth in gold. Anyone in Texas going to the old fashioned bike rally pig roast?
DakRatFink
Well-Known Member
No complaints about the pictures here.
haha yeah Im not complaining either.
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