Barn find V-Max - what to inspect

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wmajinw

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I'm looking for general advice on what to look for in a "barn find" VMax.

I've been looking around for a project bike for me and my father (more my father) for winter and came across an add for a 1999 VMax that was stored in a shed for more than 20 years.

https://autoplius.lt/skelbimai/yamaha-v-max-1200cc-cioperiai-kruizeriai-custom-22217232.html
I'm wondering if it's at all worth a serious consideration and if so, what and how should be inspected?

I'm somewhat mechanically inclined and not new to bikes, but looking at this particular condition would be new to me so any advice is very much appreciated.
 
#1 is, 'does it run? Is the engine locked-up (does not turn over)?'
#2 is, 'does it jump out of 2nd gear?' Without it running, you cannot know this.
#3 is 'does it have crash damage?'

Twenty years not operational, well, it could be a total waste of $. Don't spend any more $ or Euros than you're willing to lose, after buying it, finding out it's no-good, and then parting out anything you can sell. Here in the USA, my upper price for a non-operational VMax similar to this, but with the engine not frozen, would be $750, or about 1,000 Euros less than this one is apparently going for. I usually would offer $500, and go up if it had cosmetically good pieces, and no signs of flooding, fire damage, or vermin destroying the wiring.

What to check? What access do you have, what are you allowed to do? Assuming it doesn't run, seeing if it's frozen is probably about all you would be allowed to do. I can assure you the brakes and the clutch probably won't work as hydraulics usually won't survive that long of an idle time. They'll need to be disassembled, flushed, seals replaced, and reinstalled, and systems bled. Corrosion causing pitting of bores and deterioration of metal parts those parts likely need replacement.

Vermin will probably have made nests, and have eaten wiring.

The gas tank probably needs rust mitigation, carbs completely disassembled, rubber tubing in the fueling and braking systems replaced, and the electrical loom inspected for continuity. Oxidation on the wire loom connectors after such a period is probable. The three wires along the left lower frame tube from the stator and where their connector is, often overheats because of oxidation, and the resistance will 'cook' the plastic connector, causing it to crumble, discoloring is another sign.

Obviously the tires need replacement, and that includes the valve stems or at least the valve cores, but better the valve stems.

There are more things to consider, and I'm sure others have ideas, but these are some basic points of value to be found, or not to be found, affecting the bike's value or lack of it.
 
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30,000 km is a lot just for being used for a couple of years I've got an 85 with 5000 MI, the entire bike needs to be gone over mechanically and electrically all fluids changed needs new tires new rubber hoses on the cooling system, I would love to get my hands on that bike
 
My advice (having done this myself) would be not to worry too much about what is wrong and what is right. Just assume that it is all wrong, take it all apart down to the last nut and bolt and fix everything that you find. It will keep you and your dad busy for a long time, cost a lot of money, and some of the work will be very difficult, but when you have finished you will know for sure that the whole lot is good, and you will be riding a bike about which you know everything.
 
I think everyone approaches projects differently. I would replace all the consumables (filters, oils, etc), get it running, and go from there.

I've seen too many projects where the person tears the project down to nuts and bolt, then runs out of time, money and interest. The project is then a pile of parts. It kinds of depends on your ability to keep at it. It's hard to stay motivated when you can't ride your pile of parts and the end looks way far away.
 
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I think everyone approaches projects differently. I would replace all the consumables (filters, oils, etc), get it running, and go from there.

I've seen too many projects where the person tears the project down to nuts and bolt, then runs out of time, money and interest. The project is then a pile of parts. It kinds of depends on your ability to keep at it. It's hard to stay motivated when you can't ride your pile of parts and the end looks way far away.
I agree with just seeing if the thing runs as a first order of business, and then go from there. As a precaution, let's say that you don't even look in the gas tank, you just throw a gallon into the tank, and use a temporary battery to attempt a jump-start. The engine turns-over, but the carbs start peeing gasoline everywhere, out the overflows, from the float bowls, both the drains, and the bowl gaskets. Bad news! I hope you're doing this outside and not within vapor-carrying distance (30 ft is possible) of a gas-powered hot water heater or a furnace. You need to stop, clean up the spills, and drain any gasoline remaining in the bike to prevent it leaking further. This is common-sense stuff, but impatience can ruin the best of intentions.

Using a temporary tank is a good way to bypass a gunked-up, rusty bike gas tank. Checking the gas lines for clamps properly placed and fastened, and rubber/plastic gas hose not leaking should be done. A quick screwdriver use can check for any residual fluid in the float bowls, but if it's been more than a few months' of inactivity, any gas has probably reverted to varnish and brown/black gummy residue. A year or more, and that's probably become hardened scum.

If I knew the bike had been inoperable for more than a few months, I'd probably just expect I have to remove the carbs, and do a thorough disassembly. I use an ultrasonic cleaner, and rarely do I need to do it a second time. Jet blocks out, brass jets inside removed, and compressed air after the soak to clear passages. If three carburetors' passages flow a similar amount, and one doesn't, you know what needs to be cleaned again.

A generic gas filter will fit in-place of the OEM, and is much cheaper. Turn on the fuel pump w/the hose into a receptacle and see what volume you get out of it. If it passes muster, use the accessory gas tank, hook up the gas, and having checked for spark, see what happens. You did change the oil & filter? Perhaps you're lucky and it starts w/o issues, but w/o the air filter, it's not going to run as it should, it needs to be clean and in-place, and then you can see about the engine accelerating smoothly.

This is some basic stuff, many people are likely to do similarly.
 
Maybe you guys do not have the obsessive-compulsive disorder that makes me do so many stupid time-consuming and useless activities!
 
Check oil level (add if low), check fuel tank (add if low and NOT completely full of crap), jump start it (or add a new battery), and see what it does. You can change the oil, coolant, and flush brake stuff later.
 

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