whiskey
Active Member
Has anyone changed the clocks on the dash before.
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wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
Yes. Ask Maxmidnight here...
Yes, there are many options you can do.
Sean
Sean
MaxMidnight
Well-Known Member
Guilty as charged.
I have had three incarnations and they needed new face-plates to accept the gauges and warning lights.
I used to have separate speedo and rev counter but this shows the MkI after I had fitted the Koso. Warning lights are LED.
As the Koso has many of the warning lights this version just had low fuel level and 5th gear lights.
The MkIII was similar to MkII but also has a smoked perspex facia that covers the two warning lights.
In addition to the faceplate you will also need to fabricate mounting brackets.
I used the same Hitachi type connectors that the OE unit has so that I didn't need to hack the loom about.
Bare in mind that if replacing fuel level and indicator warning lights with LED's you will need to insert ballast resistors as well and also diodes into the indicator lamp if using left and right lights rather than the single OE set up.
I have had three incarnations and they needed new face-plates to accept the gauges and warning lights.
I used to have separate speedo and rev counter but this shows the MkI after I had fitted the Koso. Warning lights are LED.
As the Koso has many of the warning lights this version just had low fuel level and 5th gear lights.
The MkIII was similar to MkII but also has a smoked perspex facia that covers the two warning lights.
In addition to the faceplate you will also need to fabricate mounting brackets.
I used the same Hitachi type connectors that the OE unit has so that I didn't need to hack the loom about.
Bare in mind that if replacing fuel level and indicator warning lights with LED's you will need to insert ballast resistors as well and also diodes into the indicator lamp if using left and right lights rather than the single OE set up.
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
Very nice work on the gauges.
What are the specifics on the resistor used for the fuel light circuit?
What are the specifics on the resistor used for the fuel light circuit?
wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
Just check the lamp and get a resistor with a power enough that added to the led power equals to the stock lamp (usually resistor with same power as bulb due LED is very low power). Then put it in parallel.
whiskey
Active Member
Thank you very much for the advice fellas. I like the MK111 where can I get it and does it come with the full instruction's .
KosRider
Well-Known Member
Very nice work there Steve. :clapping:
Best Gen1 guage / dash upgrade I've ever seen. :worthy:
Best Gen1 guage / dash upgrade I've ever seen. :worthy:
Guilty as charged.
I have had three incarnations and they needed new face-plates to accept the gauges and warning lights.
I used to have separate speedo and rev counter but this shows the MkI after I had fitted the Koso. Warning lights are LED.
As the Koso has many of the warning lights this version just had low fuel level and 5th gear lights.
The MkIII was similar to MkII but also has a smoked perspex facia that covers the two warning lights.
In addition to the faceplate you will also need to fabricate mounting brackets.
I used the same Hitachi type connectors that the OE unit has so that I didn't need to hack the loom about.
Bare in mind that if replacing fuel level and indicator warning lights with LED's you will need to insert ballast resistors as well and also diodes into the indicator lamp if using left and right lights rather than the single OE set up.
That is beautiful!! I'm probably going to go a similar route with mine this winter, don't really care for the digital tach/shift light setup I have now.. I may bug you with a few questions when I get that far :thumbup:
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
Hey Steve looks like your Star Trek setup stirred the pot. Well done indeed chap...
johnpclynch
Well-Known Member
I was looking into something similar today, but yours looks better than what I imagined.
I was hoping to get 3 dials in but was wondering about sensors (esp. the speedo I was looking at) something about induction sensors on the driveshaft/wheel - and those dials are not cheap!
Sent from my Xbox... (seriously)
I was hoping to get 3 dials in but was wondering about sensors (esp. the speedo I was looking at) something about induction sensors on the driveshaft/wheel - and those dials are not cheap!
Sent from my Xbox... (seriously)
MaxMidnight
Well-Known Member
It isn't a commercially available product but something I threw together myself.
I would think that a local engineering shop with a CNC mill would be able to make one up quite cheaply.
Try a 4.7 Ω, 7 watt resistor which is what I used. That puts the light out and allows you to run the pump in the 'On' position.
I've never had to find out if this gives the same reserve capacity as the OE set-up so don't blame me should the reserve capacity be diminished!
Happy to help if I can
If you run with the Koso device (bought from Digital Speedo's) a cable drive adaptor that screws into the speedo drive is available and avoids the need for magnetic bolts and the like.
Potentially more problematic is the location of the oil pressure sensor.
The one for the Iridium gauge is quite large and not easy to fit out of site.
Yameringha thoughtfully provided a couple of tapped holes in the crankcase just bet hind the sump which allowed a mounting bracket to be located.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Hey Steve, do you have any photos of that oil sensor and mounting bracket?
wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
You can use the one under the waterpump... Or a sandwich pickup plate for the spin-on filters
MaxMidnight
Well-Known Member
Not the best pic I have ever taken but hopefully you will get the drift.
The angle iron bracket is first bolted to the crankcase and then the sender cable tied to it
....and yes, the wiring has been tidied up!
