Grind calipers or hub?

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davesax36

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Ok, it seems I'm in the final stages of this front wheel mess. The last thing I have to do to get the wheel on there and usable is get the rotors to center in the calipers. I can either grind about 1/8" off each caliper mounting arm or take the wheel to a machine shop and have the entire face where the rotor mounts machined down the same amount. I haven't done final measurements yet for that, but the rotors go in, the just touch on the outer tabs under the brake pads and leave a large gap towards the inside. Either the calipers have to move out, or the rotors have to move in. The threads for the rotor mounts go all the way through the wheel into the void in the hub. The caliper threads start pretty close to the face that would be ground. I'm not sure which is better/safer.

What do you guys think?
 
Dave
What wheel is it? Do not touch the calipers. One option you MAY have is get a set of offset rotors and bolt them backwards and you get them inwards and you can use a spacer if needed to correct centerness (this all is if the forks allow it but without looking at the thing is hard to say)
 
fzr wheel. I just picked up a round(er) wheel to replace the one I got from the project bike that had a hop and wobble. So i need to find a local machine shop, give them some good numbers, and have them turn the hub down?

Posted with my thumbs.
 
I don't believe there's room to invert these calipers. They are 10.5mm offset and end up about 3mm too far to the outside. I'm not sure I'd want the rotors out on a spacer mounted inside out, but i'll see if I can try that out later tonight or in the morning. Then i'd just have to get a friend to make me some aluminum discs with bolt holes in them.


Posted with my thumbs.
 
Calipers are cheaper than wheels and forks I'd take meat off the calipers before I would the wheels unless your 100% positive of the outcome.

Of course the caliper mounting tabs still have to be strong enough to do their job so there is some discretion required.
 
I meant room to invert rotors. Sorry. That's what I get for posting while I'm watching a movie.


Posted with my thumbs.
 
I think the Easiest solution at this point is to just put a new radial 18 on one of my old front wheels and use that with stock rotors (or wavy ones, I really don't care at this point). I'd lose an inch in tire height in the front just the same as I do with my 17" rear with a 190/50/17 on it. I don't think it would look too strange based on what I've seen in pics of a bunch of euro guys that have gone that route. Too bad I'll have two FZR wheels, one with brand new chinese wavy rotors on it, but I won't have any safety issues. I mostly don't want to cut any hard parts...

How about that way?

Posted with my thumbs.
 
IM with 17 rear and 18 front in one of mine. The other one is the opposite... LOL
 
So if I take this nub down flush with the main arm, I should just about make it to centered rotors. That's 2mm off the caliper.
vyzama8u.jpg


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That wouldn't stress me at all but my question is how do you intend to face it off?
I've milled stuff like that many times but do you have access to machinery?
If you don't, then please don't consider trying to grind, linish or otherwise because all you'll end up with is a set of calipers that are no longer square.
 
I'll have a machinist friend do it for me. I've waited this long. It can go another week.

Posted with my thumbs.
 
I think what your trying to do is move the rotor in OR move the caliper out
so, if you grind the mounts on the caliper, won't that move it in the wrong direction?
 
I think what your trying to do is move the rotor in OR move the caliper out
so, if you grind the mounts on the caliper, won't that move it in the wrong direction?

No, if he removes material from the mounting face of the caliper to the fork lobes then the caliper moves away from the wheel.
 
Dave, I have done that exact thing that you are looking at doing on my wife's bike. Had a machinist take about the same amount off the calipers.

Over 15,000 miles on the bike now with zero issues.

Mike
 
I agree with all, should be no problem as it always cracks on the weakest point and that is the narrower part (normally!) and that will be untouched. As long as teh rotor does not touch the caliper body you are ok as the pads and pistons will adjust themselves to the rotor.
 
No, if he removes material from the mounting face of the caliper to the fork lobes then the caliper moves away from the wheel.

True, my bad. for some reason I thought the caliper bolted onto the outside of the fork :ummm:
 
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