High Idle part 2...

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HDKILA

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Well I think I figured out my high idle.

As I stated in the first post toward the end my throttle plate does not rest on the thumb screw idle adjust plate (it sits a few mm off of it but when pushed down my bike will not only idle much lower but also die). I can push it down with my finger but it just pushes back up!

I adjusted all the synch screws so that plate would touch but it seems like it just won't touch plate to plate!

I took the cables completly off and inspected everything but could not find anything...

Any thoughts?
 
Maybe you can try to post some close-ups of the linkage areas and we can
see if there is anything missing, or not assembled correctly. Another thing
you could try is to see if there is one specific carb that is causing the problem. Maybe you could try pulling plug wires one at a time and see if you get something that is irregular... just a thought?
 
If you expierence a high idle lasting longer than 4 hours contact your physcian

I approve of this message paid by lankeeyankee foundation
 
If you are using the stock cables there is a specific method to adjust it sounds like the cable slack is not set right you should have atleast 2-4mm of slack in the cable at the twist part of the throttle on the handle bars. if you have S.S. throttle cables there are set nuts on both ends of the cables for the easy adjustment. The stock you adjust it thru the junction. Hope this helps. Also just to make sure you linkage on the carbs arent getting hung up or bend somewhere which wont allow it to fully return. Roy
 
I would split into halves and remove the cables. Carefully inspect each carb and especially the sync linkages.
 
I think I may have found the problem...

In the manual it states that when the cables are in the junction box they need to be within the markers on the junction box. My open side is well within spec but my closed side is not...

It says to replace cable(s) if they are not within the junction box markers.

My question is which cable? The cable from the throtttle to the junction box or the cable from the junction box to the carbs OR both?

Either way it makes good sense to me...if the closed side is not pulling the throttle plate closed all the way that would explain my high idle.

But I had both the cables off and it seemed like it still would not shut all the way. Does it need that cable pull to close all the way?
 
U sure you didn't swap the cables by mistake? I think it's easy to do..

Also, a cable would stretch over time, but never get shorter. By the sound of what you're saying, it seems something got reversed, because if the return cable was out of spec it would be too long - not too short. In your case it sounds too short (not pulling the throttles closed) which makes me believe you either got them reversed or your adjuster's all the way out..
 
Don't forget that the cables are adjustable too. One adjustment on the switch housing side and another on the carb side.

Sean
 
Abe, follow the procedure in the manual. It has you adjust carb side first and then throttle side. Make sure butterflies open fully. I forgot about the markers at the junction box. There are two sets of throttle cables. One set is for open and other closed. I would closely inspect throttle side as I used my own when testing your carbs. I didn't have problem adjusting idle so it has to be something unique on your bike or something got bumped in shipping?
 
Start bike and warm up..then disconnect cables at junction box and see if idle drops to normal..may have to readjust idle screw when cables are disconnected to get into proper range..will at least tell you if it's a cable problem
 
Start bike and warm up..then disconnect cables at junction box and see if idle drops to normal..may have to readjust idle screw when cables are disconnected to get into proper range..will at least tell you if it's a cable problem

i have already done this...it seems to stay high with or without the cables.
 
Do I understand this correctly? With both cables disconnected you still have high idle and it doesnt sit on idle plate. If this is the case you must have something hung up in you carb linkage or it is bent. Check all pivot points and and clean if needed. Good luck hope to have helped. Roy
 
I just talked to Abe and he figured it out. Left side sync screw was out-of-sync. That screw controls where that plate sits against idle screw.
 
I just talked to Abe and he figured it out. Left side sync screw was out-of-sync. That screw controls where that plate sits against idle screw.

Mark,

Thanks for all the help. Idle is mint now but still missing pretty bad in the upper rpm range.

Time to do some electrical digging and possible vacuum leak. If you want to sell those spare carb boots let me know.

Where do you think I should start with the electrical?

Thanks,
Abe
 
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