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I have both kits also. Good quality stuff. Both kits are still available either combined or individually. On the link above, click on the "Home" tab and the other kits are shown. He used to sell both at a discount and often sold on eBay (where I got mine). Doesn't show combined kit on the link but probably will combine if asked.
Good stuff, but the guy should 'bin' the cursive script for his website and use a font like Times New Roman or Arial, something you can easily-read. That 'feathery' script is a pain in the butt!
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
I got an email back from him, he offers two kits actually:
HD Ground Cable kit USD33.00 shipping to "Down under" included.
HD Ground Cable Kit + HD starter kit USD72.00 shipping included. This will give you heavy wiring between battery - solenoid - starting motor + the HD Grounding kit.
All is built to order.
HD Ground Cable kit USD33.00 shipping to "Down under" included.
HD Ground Cable Kit + HD starter kit USD72.00 shipping included. This will give you heavy wiring between battery - solenoid - starting motor + the HD Grounding kit.
All is built to order.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Still STUMPED by the electrics on that '86..
I did a LOT of tests today, and still can't find the problem. As a comparison, I disconnected everything I could from the harness of my 2000 until everything not needed to run was off, and it still started and ran. Basically just left the battery, TCI, flasher relay, sidestand relay, main switch, RH bar switch (for starter button), RR, stator and coils.
All other bits got disconnected, even took off 3 out of 4 fuses leaving on the ignition one.
Did exactly the same on the '86 and it still won't go. Starter relay clicks, but no spin.
I even tried jumping the battery with the one from the 2000, and with two batteries it just about spins the starter but not much.
One thing I noticed while testing earlier on was that with the main switch off I would have 12.25V across the battery, but with the switch on I would see a huge drop - down to about 7V (?!?)
With everything disconnected it isn't as bad but still no worky.
I've tested just about every brown, red/white and red/black wires and they all check good, so still no luck finding the fault.
I'm using the ground strap from the 2000 which I know works.
The battery is fully charged - when I put the charger on it I get the green light.
I guess I'm gonna take out the starter motor next to have a look and clean it up, also I'm getting the grounding and starter kits from Johan to eliminate all that.
What a Pain In The Arse!!
I did a LOT of tests today, and still can't find the problem. As a comparison, I disconnected everything I could from the harness of my 2000 until everything not needed to run was off, and it still started and ran. Basically just left the battery, TCI, flasher relay, sidestand relay, main switch, RH bar switch (for starter button), RR, stator and coils.
All other bits got disconnected, even took off 3 out of 4 fuses leaving on the ignition one.
Did exactly the same on the '86 and it still won't go. Starter relay clicks, but no spin.
I even tried jumping the battery with the one from the 2000, and with two batteries it just about spins the starter but not much.
One thing I noticed while testing earlier on was that with the main switch off I would have 12.25V across the battery, but with the switch on I would see a huge drop - down to about 7V (?!?)
With everything disconnected it isn't as bad but still no worky.
I've tested just about every brown, red/white and red/black wires and they all check good, so still no luck finding the fault.
I'm using the ground strap from the 2000 which I know works.
The battery is fully charged - when I put the charger on it I get the green light.
I guess I'm gonna take out the starter motor next to have a look and clean it up, also I'm getting the grounding and starter kits from Johan to eliminate all that.
What a Pain In The Arse!!
KansasBugkiller
Well-Known Member
Could be a dead spot in starter bad starter relay too. Check the crimp in the wire loom too.
KansasBugkiller
Well-Known Member
I have heard that the mod monkey, s are paying the gremlins so to get mods done need bike bell to stop them.
The bike bell 'thing' is more-of a Harley custom, along with black H-D t-shirts, 'do-rags,' lots of exhaust noise but little power, and 'attitude.' We are more-into performance mods which make our rides actually run or work better, not just reflect solar rays because of more chromium-clad pieces...:rofl_200:
94 V-Max Rider
Well-Known Member
Start with the battery. A fully charged battery should have a standing voltage of around 12.6 volts (higher if maintenance free). With the key on, it should stay above 11 volts, and above 9 volts under cranking. Don't trust your charger. Have the battery load tested. I charged my battery a few weeks ago and it showed good standing voltage, however it failed when I performed a load test.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
:clapping::clapping::clapping:I fixed it!!! :clapping::clapping::clapping:
In the end it was a combination of things I reckon, but went through the lot and now it runs again as it should
unk:
The culprits (in order of importance)
- battery dead - came from my 2000 and worked fine on it..:bang head:
- main earth strap from battery to motor - solder rotten at battery end
- main + wire going to main fuse had a break in its sleeve, was taped but I reckon it failed when hot
- wire + from RR to harness (after connector) also had a taped break in it
- wire - from RR to battery was a home job, old and hardened
- neutral switch had high resistance around 145Ω
So, I put a new battery on, got the earth strap + starter wires kits from the guy in Sweden, replaced and soldered in new red 20A wires from RR+ to harness and to main fuse, cleaned the neutral switch, RH handle bar switches, disconnected, lubricated with dielectric grease and reconnected every connector on the bike, and now it's happy again.
Y A Y .
In fact it runs so good it spins it clutch. Separate thread for that. Thanks to all who made suggestions and helped me along the way! :worthy:
In the end it was a combination of things I reckon, but went through the lot and now it runs again as it should
unk:The culprits (in order of importance)
- battery dead - came from my 2000 and worked fine on it..:bang head:
- main earth strap from battery to motor - solder rotten at battery end
- main + wire going to main fuse had a break in its sleeve, was taped but I reckon it failed when hot
- wire + from RR to harness (after connector) also had a taped break in it
- wire - from RR to battery was a home job, old and hardened
- neutral switch had high resistance around 145Ω
So, I put a new battery on, got the earth strap + starter wires kits from the guy in Sweden, replaced and soldered in new red 20A wires from RR+ to harness and to main fuse, cleaned the neutral switch, RH handle bar switches, disconnected, lubricated with dielectric grease and reconnected every connector on the bike, and now it's happy again.
Y A Y .
In fact it runs so good it spins it clutch. Separate thread for that. Thanks to all who made suggestions and helped me along the way! :worthy:
jedi-
Well-Known Member
Awesome, glad you got it sortedunk:
unk:
