Is this a Stage 1 or stage 7 ?

[Legion]

Ok guys,
I'm not getting what this set up is (reference the pics below). I was told when I recently bought my bike that it was dynojetted. Was not told stg 1 or 7, just assumed 1. I went to change the oil 2 days ago and it took me an hour to find the oil fill cap :bang head:. Go ahead, laugh...its ok!
All I have to go off of is the owners manual that I downloaded off the web. The fill cap was not there like it was pictured :ummm:, just this hose that I found. When I followed it, it ended in the airbox attached to a 4 filter K&N setup. Also, inside the box are 4 open ended hoses, two on each side.
I looked at the exhaust pipes and they go 4-2-1 to end in a Kerker pipe. Can anyone identify this setup for me? I this a stage 7 kit? Why the hose from the oil fill to the air filter? Do I just disconnect to fill the oil? I realize these are ignorant questions, so please bear with me. Thanks alot.

 

[lankeeyankee]

Yes, thats a Dyno Jet Stage 7 kit with K&N airfilters along with a puke tank setup for blow by.

 

[maleko89]

Loosen clamp and then take adjustable wrench and loosen the adapter hose adapter. I would leave that piece intact, it'll run better.

 

[lankeeyankee]

The 4 open hoses 2 together are just vents no worries and they have no hookup.

The braided hose that goes to your crankcase is for drainage from the puke tank.

The hoses from the airfilters goto the puke tank.
Under high RPM there is a small amount of oil that is blown from crankcase pressure this is normal. this drains into the puke tank and back into your engine... Its almost like the PCV valve on your car. Hope that clears the fog over there with the stage 7 carb kit...

 

[lankeeyankee]

Ohh by the way, dont listen to MALEKO, he knows nothing about carbs nor making a burrito that doesnt cause bad gas, and before you know it he will have you adjusting your carb floats..... :rofl_200:

*None of the above information from this post is honest, only used for entertainment purposes*​

 

[maleko89]

Lankee, tell you what....I'll check your floats and you can show me how you made that niftly little drive shaft breather window. Fine, I'll find a better burrito for you.

 

[Legion]

Mark, Lankee...thanks alot guys. I appreciate it. I am going to be purchasing a carbtune soon. When it comes to tuning a stage 7, is there anything specific I need to do that would be different than a stock setup?
As a side note, I am only getting about 80 miles per tank before the fuel light comes on. With this particular setup, would that be about right? Or are the carbs significantly out of tune?

 

[maleko89]

It sounds like they need a tune-up.

 

[lankeeyankee]

Mark, Lankee...thanks alot guys. I appreciate it. I am going to be purchasing a carbtune soon. When it comes to tuning a stage 7, is there anything specific I need to do that would be different than a stock setup?
As a side note, I am only getting about 80 miles per tank before the fuel light comes on. With this particular setup, would that be about right? Or are the carbs significantly out of tune?

Yes when you goto synch the carbs you must be sure that the V-BOOST butterflys are closed. Now first you need to know the following.

1) Do you have the V-BOOST manifolds or the bypass tubes. Easiest way is to turn the ignition key on, do you here a servo motor that runs about 3 seconds?

For better gas mileage you can also try and lower your needle one slot. This will drop the needle a little lower into the main jet which will give you better gas mileage.. If your not on the lean side now which it doesnt sound like. I had to do this with mine last month since I was only getting 75-80 and the light was coming on. Now that I lowered my needles one notch I can go close to 95-100 before the light comes on. Let me know if you here the V-Boost servo come on and we will go from there.

 

[Legion]

Yankee,
When I turned on the ignition switch I heard what sounded more like a series of clicks lasting approx 1-2 sec not the high pitched whirr of a servo motor. Think that was it? :confused2: by the way, this is very off topic, how did you get your pic in your signature area? None of the areas in the CP are letting me do it.

 

[maleko89]

The clicking is your fuel pump.

 

[Thevmaxrider]

I would check and make sure that the Vboost butterflys are still there. If he has Vboost eliminator tubes in synching the carbs gets a wee difficult. Remove the plastic chrome "H" pieces that cover the intake manifolds. Look between the manifolds, if there is a smooth tube your butterfly's have been removed. If there is a "knob" sticking out of the tube in the center then the buttterfly's are still there. If they are there chances are that the Vboost servo connector under the left scoop has been disconnected. Take off the left scoop and check the round white connector, if it is disconnected, reconnect and turn on key. You should hear the Vboost servo cycle. Of course this is assuming that the butterfly's are there.

 

[lankeeyankee]

Jim nailed it on the head as far as locating your V-Boost..... If you look in between your carbs you should also see a brass colored bracket with a linkage that is on a spring style shaft for return. Its hard to see but you should be able to,, I am not home now to take a pic of mine......

 

[Legion]

I'm at work right now guys, but I will check it out in the am and post some pics. Thanx

 

[cjmeg]

Mark, Lankee...thanks alot guys. I appreciate it. I am going to be purchasing a carbtune soon. When it comes to tuning a stage 7, is there anything specific I need to do that would be different than a stock setup?
As a side note, I am only getting about 80 miles per tank before the fuel light comes on. With this particular setup, would that be about right? Or are the carbs significantly out of tune?

Only speculating, but now I have had mine dynoed (?), I can go 115 mile before reserve, where before I would only get 90 miles.
I have a stage 7, but with stock airbox, no v boost. When dynoed, went from #165 main jets to #140.

Had a huge hole in the midrange before, not now. The fuel use is a bonus..

 

[naughtyG]

Only speculating, but now I have had mine dynoed (?), I can go 115 mile before reserve, where before I would only get 90 miles.
I have a stage 7, but with stock airbox, no v boost. When dynoed, went from #165 main jets to #140.

Had a huge hole in the midrange before, not now. The fuel use is a bonus..

That's interesting! My '86 is all stock apart from a K&N air filter, and I also only ever get about 90 miles before reserve. I'm about to pull my carbs to take a good look at what's happening and will find out what size jets are fitted.

I understand stock mains are 147.5, should these change for a K&N with stock exhaust @ sea level?

 

[lankeeyankee]

I'm at work right now guys, but I will check it out in the am and post some pics. Thanx

This pic should help you out... One is without the VBOOST and the other is With the VBOOST if you notice you can see the one with the v-boost still intact with the golden color bracket with a cable attached..

Basically what the vboost is a butterfly that is normally closed blocking the front and rear carbs from feeding off each other, when the factory VBOOST opens at 6500 RPMs a servo motor opens the butterflys allowing the front and rear to share carburetion.

Why we are asking if you have vboost or not to synch your carbs is...

Its very hard to get an accurate reading when there is no v-boost due to the two carbs creates an unequal vacuum when trying to synch.
When the butterflys are closed on the vboost each cyl feeds from one carb only which makes it easy to synch than....

Does this clear up things a little better?

 

[Legion]

Yankee...it clears up what type of set up I have...stage 7 w/ vboost removed. See pics below. Doesn't tell me what I need to do to tune up the carbs. Do I have to take it to a professional and have it dyno'd/tuned? What does a stage 7 buy me that a stock setup wouldn't? Is it preferable in its current state or back as stock. A partial answer to that question might be found in my riding style. I prefer low end torque and HP. Speed off the line so to speak. I dont usually travel above 100mph between work and home and I like(d) to beat the crotch rockets off the the line at lights. Hopefully that helps.
Also as a side note, Phoenix is approx 500-600 ft higher in elevation than Chicago where the bike previously was. Will that make a difference in the carb tuning?

 

[cjmeg]

Yankee...it clears up what type of set up I have...stage 7 w/ vboost removed. See pics below. Doesn't tell me what I need to do to tune up the carbs. Do I have to take it to a professional and have it dyno'd/tuned? What does a stage 7 buy me that a stock setup wouldn't? Is it preferable in its current state or back as stock. A partial answer to that question might be found in my riding style. I prefer low end torque and HP. Speed off the line so to speak. I dont usually travel above 100mph between work and home and I like(d) to beat the crotch rockets off the the line at lights. Hopefully that helps.
Also as a side note, Phoenix is approx 500-600 ft higher in elevation than Chicago where the bike previously was. Will that make a difference in the carb tuning?

No v boost means you need to use a weber-type balancing tool, as left pair and right pair carbys are connected permenantly.

I would advocate dynoing it: more than likely tricky to set up, but once done can't hurt.
As 2 stage 7 vs stock, other guys here know more than me.

My dyno guy came up with the#140 jets, no mention of sea level vs altitude, don't know that I'd be too fussed about it myself..