Is this normal?!?

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Vee4DFW

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I walked into my garage and found a small hole in my water pump housing case and a huge puddle under the bike.

Attached is the picture. Is there supposed to be a hole there or plug? There seems a machined indentation there.

Sean, if this ain't normal, I'm gonna need a water pump case :rofl_200:
 

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crap!! Too hot work in in the garage and too hot to ride at the moment.

Do you happen to know the part number for it if you have it handy. If not I can find it.
 
crap!! Too hot work in in the garage and too hot to ride at the moment.

Do you happen to know the part number for it if you have it handy. If not I can find it.

2 seals, a bearing, cover o-ring. I always use new circlips (they're cheap) . Plus the impeller should be inspected. I'd get in touch with Sean, incase I'm forgetting something.
Steve-o
 
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crap!! Too hot work in in the garage and too hot to ride at the moment.

Do you happen to know the part number for it if you have it handy. If not I can find it.

Were you running straight water? How many miles on the engine?Just want to know for my own use. pm'd you a parts list to get you going.
Steve
 
I was running 50/50 and I had given it a flush the day before. However I filled it to the specified 3 liters. I am guessing that the seals were already going and the pressure probably blew them.

The bike has 58K on the odo, but I just had it compression tested and it's well within tolerance.
 
Just like on a car or truck, someplace for the water to go once the seal begins to fail. A 'weep hole.'
 
I was running 50/50.

If you mean 50% glycol, it works really well at cleaning stuff out.
It's a nasty trick for radiator guys to tell people to run 100% glycol.
Leaks that aren't leaking because they are filled with gunk and corrosion get the gunk cleaned out and viola - water leak!

First time I ran glycol in Veronica I found out where all the dodgey bits were... :bang head: But it is good in a way.

PS. water pump is easy to rebuild. READ THE MANUAL!!
 
If you live in a hot area (i.e that doesn't freeze) you can get away with less. Pure water would be ideal since that absorbs the most heat, but you need some glycol for seal lubrication and corrosion protection.

25% coolant lowers the freeze point to 10* F, 33% lowers it to zero.
For northern guys that may not be enough for winter storage but for everyone else it's likely fine. And your cooling system will be more efficient the less glycol you use.
 
That's what I was thinking. The bike was running hotter and I went ahead and gave it a good flush which probably got rid of all the nasty stuff which exposed the weak seals. Last time it was flushed was about 4 years ago. It was running much cooler after that and then the leak happened.

We are already hitting 100 here in the DFW but I still run a 50/50 mixture for lubrication purposes.

Sean is already going to send me the parts to get it done. I just have to pick a sub 100 degree day to do it.
 
eh, a cooler full of ice water and a 12 pack of your favorite malt beverage makes doing anything in the garage tolerable.

Water pump.....that might be a 4 or 5 beer job. lol


that's why I've heard the "transmission flush" services offered at the big auto service palaces often cause more harm than good. All the crud is keeping the seals protected....flush it all out and shortly thereafter they start leaking oil, shifting weird, ect, on high mileage vehicles. Best to just leave it alone, or do a simple drain/refill rather than pressurized flush.
 
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