LED Blinkers issues

[vmax2extreme]

Ok, I just upgraded to dual intensity LED blinkers, but I dont like them so changing them back to single and modifying them to dual the correct way. My questions are as follows:

I have attached a diagram to make dual parking/directional signals from a single intensity LED. Using the 1N5400 diodes, I realize this will work for full brightness each mode, but I want to make the parking lights dimmer than the full intensity. How is this accomplished?

Secondly, with the regular turn signal marker bulb in, all leds light up. If I change the relay to an Electronic LED relay, will that solve the issues completely with the speed slowing down of the turn signals and all the lights lighting up or do I need a diode for the console bulb? I even tried an LED console bulb and it did the same thing? What must be done to fix all these issues?

Thanks to all who help.......

 

[[email protected]]

An ELFR will fix the flash rate. I have not had luck with ANY automotive types. I have had success with the one from custom dynamics. It will NOT fix the "all my lights flash at once" problem

To fix the all on or all flashing try to remove the indicator bulb in the dash pod by the faux. If that fixes the problem then you need a diode kit. You can make you own for $1.00 from radioshack parts.

To dim the running light you should be able to install a resistor on the running light feed to each signal. I'm not positive that would work, but it *might* . Check out this site. There are others out there too.

http://www.mikesflightdeck.com/led_dimmer.htm

 

[dunkins1]

I too am installing 4 LED turn signals and the motorcyclemod LED tail light. The first test install had all 4 signals blinking at the same time. I went back to the manufacturer and ordered the suggested "resistance" for each signal. Hoping that will work. However, I noticed on my LED tail light that when I first tested it with stock turn signals, drepressing the rear braked did activated the brighter intensity as it should. However, when the LED turn signals and the LED brake light were tested as described above, the LED brake light do not change when I hit the rear brake lever. I don't have the suggested "resistors" for each signal yet, but am wondering if that will allow the LED brake light to work properly. I hate electrical crap and know very little. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill

 

[4gasem]

Welcome Bill! Like I said... The guys here will help you out.

The resistors will probably clear up your issues though. I had no issues with my tail light.

Good luck and just so you know... You MUST post pics here and if YOU don't I will.

Lets see that beauty!

Chris

 

[one2dmax]

You can make your own diode kit or I think I can still get the Kuryakyn kit (which works well) for under $10.

Sean

 

[wingrider]

Hey Guys,

In regards to the diode fix on the flasher light to make all the LED turn signals flash as they should...I'm going to need to do it, as I'm getting some new signals.

I've seen a picture of a fella that made his own using two diodes, and see that Kuryakyn also uses the two diodes. My question is, what do you connect each diode to? Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like there is only two wires that come out the rear of the light.

I haven't had time to look in person, but it's bugging me that I can't figure it out just looking at the wiring diagram.

Thanks for any help!

 

[dunkins1]

Thanks Chris, I will post soon. The fenders and shell are painted, I have the chrome coming back from Morley sometime soon. I didn't realize Sean also sold LED turn signals or I'd have ordered them from him.

Still in for Illinois VMAX rally???

 

[[email protected]]

How to make your own diode setup to keep all 4 of your LED signals from blinking at once. This does not cure blink rate issues

1.Remove the instrument panel from your bike and flip it upside down.

2.Pull on the rubber socket that houses the turn signal indicator bulb.

3.If everything is stock you should have one brown and one green wire going to the indicator bulb. Cut them both

4. Extend one of the two leads from the indicator bulb socket(doesn't matter which) with a piece of wire long enough to reach a ground. You will find a ground in the back of the instrument panel. Look for the black wire with a brass ring terminal on the opposite side that you remove the bulb. Crimp a ring terminal onto the newly extended wire. When completed you will secure on top or under the existing ground.



5. Next step is to create the diode setup that will feed 12V to the bulb. By now you should only have one wire left from the socket to choose from. Again, doesn't matter which one. Connect two diodes to the remaining wire. ORIENTATION of the diodes matter. Take note of the stripe on the diodes in the picture below. I have extended the green wire to go to ground and the brown is now prepped to connect to the two wires coming from the harness.


6. Now that we've made it this far it is time to connect the bulb socket back to the bikes wiring harness. One diode gets connected to the Brown wire, one diode to the green wire coming from the bike. DO NOT let the diodes make contact with each other on this side. Insulate each individually. Otherwise your signals will still all flash at once because there will be continuity from side to side. I put a long piece of heat shrink on the green wire and one on the brown before connecting the diodes. Then after soldering I slid the heat shrink up and over the connection so each wire was insulated from the other up until the point they are soldered together at the bulb socket. After that I taped the entire joint.

7. Now you can connect that ground, pop the socket back in place and only one side should flash. But it will still flash fast and you will need a flasher relay to fix that.

I removed the fuse from the circuit while doing this work. Some say to disconnect the - battery cable but I'm lazy.

Another note of interest: Make sure that the indicator bulb is properly inserted into the socket when you put it all back together. The socket is really not a socket. It is just a rubber boot. There are two female spade type terminals that connect to the bulb and it is easy for this connection to get loose during your work. When I first hit the turn signal switch and a fuse blew I was worried! But found this was the issue right away. One of the terminals in the socket was touching the other so it was an instant short to ground.

 

[4gasem]

Thanks Chris, I will post soon. The fenders and shell are painted, I have the chrome coming back from Morley sometime soon. I didn't realize Sean also sold LED turn signals or I'd have ordered them from him.

Still in for Illinois VMAX rally???

Heck ya!

Morley sells A LOT more than you think. Check out his site.

Chris

 

[2fear]

Nice post Mabdcmb! :clapping:

 

[wingrider]

Thanks Mike!

Makes perfect sense now!

 

[dman1961]

How to make your own diode setup to keep all 4 of your LED signals from blinking at once. This does not cure blink rate issues

1.Remove the instrument panel from your bike and flip it upside down.

2.Pull on the rubber socket that houses the turn signal indicator bulb.

3.If everything is stock you should have one brown and one green wire going to the indicator bulb. Cut them both

4. Extend one of the two leads from the indicator bulb socket(doesn't matter which) with a piece of wire long enough to reach a ground. You will find a ground in the back of the instrument panel. Look for the black wire with a brass ring terminal on the opposite side that you remove the bulb. Crimp a ring terminal onto the newly extended wire. When completed you will secure on top or under the existing ground.



Cant believe how helpful this forum is... and you guys... did this procedure and it was easy and IT WORKS.... unk:unk:



5. Next step is to create the diode setup that will feed 12V to the bulb. By now you should only have one wire left from the socket to choose from. Again, doesn't matter which one. Connect two diodes to the remaining wire. ORIENTATION of the diodes matter. Take note of the stripe on the diodes in the picture below. I have extended the green wire to go to ground and the brown is now prepped to connect to the two wires coming from the harness.


6. Now that we've made it this far it is time to connect the bulb socket back to the bikes wiring harness. One diode gets connected to the Brown wire, one diode to the green wire coming from the bike. DO NOT let the diodes make contact with each other on this side. Insulate each individually. Otherwise your signals will still all flash at once because there will be continuity from side to side. I put a long piece of heat shrink on the green wire and one on the brown before connecting the diodes. Then after soldering I slid the heat shrink up and over the connection so each wire was insulated from the other up until the point they are soldered together at the bulb socket. After that I taped the entire joint.

7. Now you can connect that ground, pop the socket back in place and only one side should flash. But it will still flash fast and you will need a flasher relay to fix that.

I removed the fuse from the circuit while doing this work. Some say to disconnect the - battery cable but I'm lazy.

Another note of interest: Make sure that the indicator bulb is properly inserted into the socket when you put it all back together. The socket is really not a socket. It is just a rubber boot. There are two female spade type terminals that connect to the bulb and it is easy for this connection to get loose during your work. When I first hit the turn signal switch and a fuse blew I was worried! But found this was the issue right away. One of the terminals in the socket was touching the other so it was an instant short to ground.

Cant believe how helpful this forum and all you guys are... just did this procedure and EVERYTHING WORKS !!! unk:unk:unk:

 

[dman1961]

I dont mind the quick blinking thing, but is it going to burn my flasher thingy out quicker?

 

[rollin thunder]

I have blown two 10 amp fuses due to my led flashers on the rear of my bike .I lost my horn ,tach and rear brake light.