no spark

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slammed68

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hello all,
I am the new owner of a 1993 w/ 6k miles. She has garage stored her entire life and up until I rescued her she sat unridden for around 2 years. Under my care she now has a new battery, fully broken down and rebuilt carbs, tank removed and cleaned and fresh oil and fork seals. After having the carbs synced I took her out and tacked on another 100 miles and then the rain hit. So after a day or so in the garage I went to start her up and.... nothing. Turn the key and everything clicks, but no go vroom.:confused2:
After breaking out the ol service manual and testing everything i could, no dice
starter relay resistance is good, ignition coils read 3.2 ohms at the wires and 13.4 in the boot wire. Battery is like 13.2V and has over 400 cold cranking amps and all the fuses test good.
So it says that i should be able to out the spark plug in the boot and ground it to the frame and click the start button and i should see spark... but i don't.
I've been probing all around and just can't figure this out:bang head:, please assist!!
 
Try the sidestand switch or the clutch lever microswitch. Either one could do your no-spark problem. Try bypassing them. If that solves the problem, you can probably just lube them to get them to work like they are supposed to. Do that, and work them until they don't stick in the 'off' position.

hello all,
I am the new owner of a 1993 w/ 6k miles. She has garage stored her entire life and up until I rescued her she sat unridden for around 2 years. Under my care she now has a new battery, fully broken down and rebuilt carbs, tank removed and cleaned and fresh oil and fork seals. After having the carbs synced I took her out and tacked on another 100 miles and then the rain hit. So after a day or so in the garage I went to start her up and.... nothing. Turn the key and everything clicks, but no go vroom.:confused2:
After breaking out the ol service manual and testing everything i could, no dice
starter relay resistance is good, ignition coils read 3.2 ohms at the wires and 13.4 in the boot wire. Battery is like 13.2V and has over 400 cold cranking amps and all the fuses test good.
So it says that i should be able to out the spark plug in the boot and ground it to the frame and click the start button and i should see spark... but i don't.
I've been probing all around and just can't figure this out:bang head:, please assist!!
 
I posted some thoughts in your other thread, but thought of another possibility.

Sometimes my 85 will seem totally dead after turning the key ON, and after hearing the V-boost cycle normally etc...

I have to pull in the clutch, and release it. Apparently, my clutch safety switch pin is not returning outward completely enough to make contact. I usually only have to move the lever and release one time to make mine work properly. I am going to have to either lube that pin switch, or if no luck there, I will eventually have to replace it. Mine's been doing that off/on (seldom) for a couple years now.

You might see if that could be your problem too...?
 
Tom, when I turn the key, the fuel pump primes, vboost primes, and then I click the start switch. The starter relay clicks and the starter clicks and can actually move the bike while not in neutral. The engine just won't fire up, just never catches
 
Ok, sounds like the engine is cranking over good, each ignition coil has a connector with 2 wires, one should be reading batt voltage with the key on.......The other is the pulse wire from the controller, not sure of the colors, unplug and verify batt voltage with key on, you don't need to be cranking it over, a test light is helpfull for this test too, if good voltage is present hook your test light lead to positive battery connector and the other end into the pulse wire, being carefull to not let anything touch ground crank it over, you should see the light flash..........................Tom.
 
side-stand test procedure:
my bible has color coded wire that don't add up...
14888806598


so i require a bit of assistance
15075399265


these are my colors
15072382961
 
Read thru this recent thread, it was his kill switch. If it's not your kill switch, ecm/ignitor box may have gone south on you. Seam Morley has a loaner program where he sends you the part or parts to try. If one of the parts he sends you fixes the problem, you buy it. I would contact him and see what he recommends to try and get the loaner parts on the way. It could be your Pick up coil also. Sean's email; [email protected] ph 316-619-8411
 
I replaced one awhile-ago. The bike would start and run fine, but after a few miles, it would quit. It cranked fine, but no spark @ the plugs, until it cooled-down, and then it would start, and run, until things got hot, and then, dead.

Glad it's done. I was so-happy when I figured-out what mine was. Or, I should say, my friend Steve at Under Pressure in Dania Beach FL did. Luckily I had a spare. Has anyone tried the website where they sell 'em for the Venture, but it needs to be adapted to the VMax mount? Very cheap that way. Search the forum for the thread. Here is the supplier I was thinking-of:

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/2000-2007-Yamaha-V-Max-VMX1200-Stator-Pick-up
 

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