Number 4 Cylinder leaking fuel

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N34stryker

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May 27, 2015
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Location
Baytown
So I bought my bike used and it ran pretty damn well. Then I started tinkering... Actually I did the shot gun method because my bike started running like pooh; loss of power and backfires. So worked better after shotgun method. Then crap again. I noticed fuel filter was full of rust. Crap. Took tank out and sealed it. Put a new fuel level sensor in and replaced filter. Installed COPS. Ran mucho better. Then crappy again. I figured I'll try to synch carbs. I don't know how you guys do it because my needles were everywhere even with restrictors. Regardless, sometimes the bike and v boost feel great, sometimes weak. Sometimes there seems to be no change with v boost. Not sure when next part happened, but I noticed fuel around the boots on the #4 carb where it mounts to the manifold. Leaks out of drain screw as well. I'm assuming float isn't closing all of the wayand fuel is pooling in there. I think maybe some residule debris from tank that was in a line is maybe blocking it. I took fuel line off at that carb and blasted seafoam in there as wel as treating the tank. Still bad. Not sure if this would affect performance. When cops were first installed I didn't need the choke. Now I need it on full to start because of all of the fuel. Any thoughts? Shot fun method wouldn't fix stuck float right? New to carbs. Read a lot in carb tuning section, but haven't found my answer. Thanks
 
Baytown Texas it is. I'll have to read up on the peashooter method. I was planning on rebuilding the carbs over the winter anyway. Was hoping to semi-limp it until then.
 
Give the carb body a whack with a leather mallet or some other device not likely to crack things apart. You might get your float unstuck that way.
 
If/when you get your carbs all cleaned out, be sure your air filter seals are in good shape too. Fumes withered away at an older filter I had used too long in my 86 Venture yeas ago, and the residue from the seals was being sucked into my carbs and wreaking havoc inside. Not all contaminates plaguing our Vmaxes has to get inside via the fuel line.
 
Thanks for all of the tips. Whacking the carbs sounds like it will possibly help with my frustration as well as the stuck float. Also, when my air box is off and the bike is running, fuel seems to jump out of the number 2 carb. Squirts 6 to 8 inches into the air when i blip the throttle. Is that normal? And any ideas on the carb synch? The tool i bought has a screw bleeder valve for each line to restrict the flow. The problem is, there is no way to tell other than counting twists that they are even. If it is too tight the needles barely move, if it is too open, the needles bounce like Oprah on a mechanical bull.
 
Well there is supposed to be a spray....or a mist of gas out of the carbs when you twist the throttle.

With a carb sync tool there is dampening that you have to do to "quiet" the pulsation from the carbs. The Morgan carb tune or motion pro will have either air correctors or small tubing to accomplish that.

Sent from my SCH-R890 using Tapatalk
 
An easy way to tap the carbs is to use a 3/8" extension from your toolbox, rest that against the carb float bowl and give it a few taps, if there's any sediment keeping the float valve from seating, that should shake it loose. A hammer really isn't needed, just a firm grip on the extension, and a few good raps. On inline 4's I usually use a slim long screwdriver to reach the inner carb float bowls and a ball pein hammer.

Yeah, it sounds like there's still sediment occasionally working its way into the carbs, from somewhere. jfeagin's tip about deteriorating rubbers is a good one, you may also check the air filter integrity, it could be 'shedding' into the carbs. I had that happen on a dirt bike that had a reusable filter, but the material eventually broke-down & began going into the carb.
 
I had a VW sand rail many years ago with a Webber carb setup. I had every fuel filter known to man between my fuel tank and that Webber, and yet was ready to pull my hair out trying to keep it idling properly when out playing in the sand dunes and chat piles in Oklahoma. Finally dawned on me one day - f'king crap was getting into my carb from around the air filter seal rather than through my fuel tank. On that buggy, I eventually had to put heavy axle grease around the big (properly lubed) reusable K&N filter and it's lid and also on the carb to stop the flow of grit into the carb. On my Venture, all I had to do was replace the worn filter.
 
Yep, I used to grease the edges of the drop-in foam filter of my stock Yamaha 360 Enduro to keep out the nasties. A good solution. Also, a filter doesn't have to look dirty to be dirty. Clean/replace as necessary.
 
OK, so was doing the peashooter method. Hose wasn't long enough so seafoam deep creep got all up it dat thang. Read that's probably bad. Anyway, I saw fuel was just flowing out of my 1 cyl. main jet air bleed. I can see the fuel pooling in the bottom where the other ones are dry. Any ideas on this. I whacked the crap out of the carb so we will see if that fixed the stuck float. Carbs may be coming off sooner than I thought.
 
Did you try the shotgun? It is more effective than the peashooter. Most people like the peashooter because its simple...but if you gonna go thru the hassle....do the job correctly.

The main difference between the 2 methods is your dribbling carb cleaner HOPING that it will get the gunk out of the idle fuel circuits......with the shotgun...your using compressed air.

The job is even easier if you take out PAJ#1 and PAJ#2.

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm
EDIT. ..I saw where you had done the shotgun previous. With an idle circuit clogged.....that's why the sea foam came back out paj#1.
Looks like it's time for another one though. About 3 months ago I had a clog that I couldn't get out with a shotgun. I then took out paj#1 and #2.....then finally got the clog out.
 

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