tothemax93
Well-Known Member
odyssey Pc 680 battery. $114.00 to my door. Thats the best price I've seen for that battery. Mine is on the way.:clapping: It's coming from batterymart.
PC 680 battery
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tothemax93
Well-Known Member
I read through the battery thread, and I saw that I have to pay attention as to how to charge it.
tothemax93
Well-Known Member
Thats a new brand to me. Is that what your using Mike?
DMAN999
Well-Known Member
That one is for the Gen 2, Scroll down and look at the Models it's compatible with (VMax 1700 NOT 1200)
The Gen 1 Version from that manufacturer is here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YMXYVS?tag=evrthngels50100-20
And this is the One I'm Using:
http://www.apexbattery.com/panasoni...-lead-acid-batteries-panasonic-batteries.html
tothemax93
Well-Known Member
Thats good to hear. I ordered my friday and it was in the mail friday. sounds like a good company.
DMAN999 I read good things about the panisonic too. How long have you been running yours?
DMAN999
Well-Known Member
I've had the Panasonic for almost 3 Years now and I haven't had any problems with it.
I use the same Trickle charger that I used on my Stock battery in the Winter and it charges it just fine.
I use the same Trickle charger that I used on my Stock battery in the Winter and it charges it just fine.
RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
They say you need "special" charging for sealed batteries, but I think this is a load of crap.
Your Max(or any other motorcycle) is a "dumb" charger. The R/R supplies current constantly, it doesn't switch modes or anything. It doesn't know the difference between a regular wet battery and a sealed, and couldn't do anything differently even if it did. Assuming your stator is 300 watts, and 150 is that is "excess" after lights and ignition 150/14.4= up to 10 amps of charging to the battery(in theory, actual would be off a bit). That current is always supplied whenever the engine is running, just the actual flow of current tapers to near zero as the battery becomes fully charged. So if these batteries "needed" a special charge, they'd be failing left and right.
The idea charge profile is slightly different (slower) for sealed since too-fast charging generates heat, and in a sealed battery the expansion that heat causes has nowhere to go. Just don't blast them with high-current charges and you'll be a-ok. For MC size ones I'd use the common 2a setting that's on most chargers. For car size ones I wouldn't go higher than 6a.
It's just a way for manufacturers to try and convince you that you need a new "smart" charger by over-playing the importance of special chargers. I had a manual charger apart that had a "lead-acid/AGM" switch in addition to the amp selector. From what I could see the switch did absolutely nothing, considering both sides of the switch were soldered together at the same terminal.
Your Max(or any other motorcycle) is a "dumb" charger. The R/R supplies current constantly, it doesn't switch modes or anything. It doesn't know the difference between a regular wet battery and a sealed, and couldn't do anything differently even if it did. Assuming your stator is 300 watts, and 150 is that is "excess" after lights and ignition 150/14.4= up to 10 amps of charging to the battery(in theory, actual would be off a bit). That current is always supplied whenever the engine is running, just the actual flow of current tapers to near zero as the battery becomes fully charged. So if these batteries "needed" a special charge, they'd be failing left and right.
The idea charge profile is slightly different (slower) for sealed since too-fast charging generates heat, and in a sealed battery the expansion that heat causes has nowhere to go. Just don't blast them with high-current charges and you'll be a-ok. For MC size ones I'd use the common 2a setting that's on most chargers. For car size ones I wouldn't go higher than 6a.
It's just a way for manufacturers to try and convince you that you need a new "smart" charger by over-playing the importance of special chargers. I had a manual charger apart that had a "lead-acid/AGM" switch in addition to the amp selector. From what I could see the switch did absolutely nothing, considering both sides of the switch were soldered together at the same terminal.
Dr.n2o
Well-Known Member
Great post
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
I agree, good post.
The amperage a battery will accept is dependent on it's charge, the charger doesn't force out amps, it puts out a voltage and the battery either accepts a certain amount of amps or not depending on it's charge and the voltage applied. put too much voltage on it and you can get in trouble tho...Like when the Zener diodes in our stock regulator fails.
Current limit is only set by the capacity of the charging system, and the condition of the battery.
That's your typical dumb charger or car or autmotive scharging system.
Smart chargers can perform an actual current limit and tailor it to a time value or what not producing a charging curve that doesn't hammer a discharged battery too hard even if it's just about near dead.......This could be a big deal hitting a "sealed" since knocking the shit out of it can make it gas rapidly (they are actually vented with a one way check valve but it doesn't allow very rapid gas flow at all, and zero spillage, but that gas HAS to go somewhere) .......
But all in all I don't think using an old school charger is a big deal.
With one caveat....That RA kind of covered already...
A dumb charger usually has a fixed output voltage, this is the "no load" voltage that it has in absence of any load/current......
My old 20Amp no settings car charger has an unloaded voltage of about 16-17Volts; I would never leave it on a motorcycle battery without monitoring it closely..
As a battery comes up to full charge and uses less and less load the voltage will come closer and closer to the no load output voltage as the current goes down since Watts is a fixed value and a product of I x E
If the final float voltage is too high it can and will shorten the life of your battery.....This is avoided on a car or bike system by the regulator part of the R/R.
A smart charger will usually also have an upper voltage limit determined by battery type it's meant for that it will adhere to no matter what the current is....these current and voltage limits, along with the electronics in them that will create a charging "curve" are what makes them smart....
I really think that inspite of how "smart" they are it's much ado about nothing.....As long as the final float voltage isn't too high you're good, use a small enough trickle charger, which has a really low current capacity, like 200 milliamps in the first place and you should be OK. When I've used a charger on motorcycle batteries that's all I ever used.....
AGM batteries, if you choose to float charge them, do like a slightly higher voltage...if I remember right it's around 13.7V or something like that, PCW has literature that will give you the number. but most trickle charger wiil get there eventually anyway as the load decreases....
I haven't float charged mine since the first few months I had it when I kept an eye out and realized it was basically never declining even when allowed to sit for long periods of time, and it's lasted 4 years of riding and multiple sessions of 3-8 months down time.
RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
This is also why I don't like computerized chargers. Every spring at the boatyard people bring in boats that "won't start"(go figure) because they were too lazy/ignorant to disconnect the battery last fall. The batteries are very dead, often with a no-load voltage of 6 volts or less and that drops to 0 at the slightest load. Sometimes they are absolutely stone dead, 0 volts across the posts.
If they've been like this for a few months, they're usually garbage and can't be resurrected. However if it's only been a couple weeks(snowmelt makes automatic bilge pumps run a lot in the spring and run the battery down), they may be quite dead initially (not even a "click" from the key) but be salvaged. "Smart" chargers do not like batteries like this. They usually just flash "error" or "check" and refuse to even put current to them since the voltage is outside their programmed range and they think there's a short.
Put one on a "dumb" charger, set it to 40a, and watch the ammeter. Starts are zero. Over the next couple minutes it will slowly start to rise all the way up to 40a or nearly so, indicating it's taking charge, and then falls back down as it nears full charge. Almost always these batteries work fine and load test OK afterward and then work fine all year.
"Smart" chargers might be OK for storage maintenance, or recharging the batteries for your trolling prop but aside from that they're useless to me.
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