Stainless engine mounting bolts???
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MaxMidnight
Well-Known Member
I've had stainless in mine for the last seven years without any issues.
Was a kit bought from Exactrep - 'fraid I don't know what grade was used.
Was a kit bought from Exactrep - 'fraid I don't know what grade was used.
I sell chromed engine cover kits and engine mount kits as well as stainless. Note that most of the stuff for the engine mounts will be hex head and not allens. The cover bolts are all allens.
Sean
Sean
satariel666
Well-Known Member
Cuz you not find those easly!
I've made mine from M16 bolt, machining to M12 on lathe.
All covers and engine bolts are typical metric and can be bought in any shop that sells SS stuf but as it goes with engine mounts bolts those are M10x1.25 and M12x1.25.
Yamahas grade are at least 10.8 and 12.8 even but A2 SS class work very good.
wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
Prez its 10.9 and 12.9
Normal steel bolts are 8.8 and gets harder (so to speak) towards 12.9
Normal steel bolts are 8.8 and gets harder (so to speak) towards 12.9
This is what confuses me.
Here they speak about the grade of bolt by referring to the material it's made from. Like 304 which I think is sort of normal, 316 which is less corrosive etc.
When I tried looking it up the best thing I could find was something that said the tensile strength of 304 was "best". What is best? :ummm:
So, I need equivalent of grade 10 or 12 then. OK.
Probolt use 316 s/steel for their very pretty and kinda expensive motorbike bolts. http://www.probolt-australia.com/stainless-steel.html
I can easily get "marine grade" bolts of the sizes I want in local stores (but not flanged, so I will need washers), which is 316 grade.
I haven't seen anything with A2 grade yet.
I only want the front bolts, and the frame bolts and nuts on the RHS. The rear engine mount bolts are already different because my rearsets are mounting there. I won't need to turn anything down (Prez), which is good because all I have is a drill and an angle grinder. No vice even!
Did you find some nice flanged dome nuts wildweasel (for the pumkin bolts)? If you did, I would like to know what you got! It would be nice to get flanged dome nuts for the 4 at the front of the frame.
Cheers Sean. I kinda already knew you would have some chromed up! I'm going to try and be anal and see if I can match these bolts to the rest I already have. Pretty well every visible fastener has been changed, and I'm going to waste a little more time on matching the finish and getting hex drive.
Here they speak about the grade of bolt by referring to the material it's made from. Like 304 which I think is sort of normal, 316 which is less corrosive etc.
When I tried looking it up the best thing I could find was something that said the tensile strength of 304 was "best". What is best? :ummm:
So, I need equivalent of grade 10 or 12 then. OK.
Probolt use 316 s/steel for their very pretty and kinda expensive motorbike bolts. http://www.probolt-australia.com/stainless-steel.html
I can easily get "marine grade" bolts of the sizes I want in local stores (but not flanged, so I will need washers), which is 316 grade.
I haven't seen anything with A2 grade yet.
I only want the front bolts, and the frame bolts and nuts on the RHS. The rear engine mount bolts are already different because my rearsets are mounting there. I won't need to turn anything down (Prez), which is good because all I have is a drill and an angle grinder. No vice even!
Did you find some nice flanged dome nuts wildweasel (for the pumkin bolts)? If you did, I would like to know what you got! It would be nice to get flanged dome nuts for the 4 at the front of the frame.
Cheers Sean. I kinda already knew you would have some chromed up! I'm going to try and be anal and see if I can match these bolts to the rest I already have. Pretty well every visible fastener has been changed, and I'm going to waste a little more time on matching the finish and getting hex drive.
satariel666
Well-Known Member
No?
We have 10.8/12.8 and 10.9/12.9 as well. Also 11.8/11.9 my friend.
As far I know diffrence beteween 8 and 9 is coating.
Here's some reading for you:
http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_2.htm
http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_2.htm
Even better:
http://www.americanfastener.com/technical/index.htm
http://www.americanfastener.com/technical/index.htm
The engine mount bolts don't need to be all that critical due to their sheet diameter (in my opinion).
Sean
Sean
wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
Really? that i didn't know. I never came across those types... thanks for the info then... I know that 12.9 type are black oxidized and 8.8 its zinc plated, probably its that...
satariel666
Well-Known Member
Maybe Poland is diffrent, I dunno.
As for the engine mount bolts - I ran many miles with A2 stainless ones with NP.
As for the engine mount bolts - I ran many miles with A2 stainless ones with NP.
wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
Thats marine grade SS. You don't need that. Its more expensive and harder to find unless you make them. If you want to go SS just get A2 (302, 304, 305) way easier to get and fits the same purpose, you can even polish them if you will...
Marine grade is quite easy to get here. 2 of the strange stats about my city is that we have the highest number of boat owners per head of capita, and more Harleys per head of capita than anywhere else (apparently).
I think it's more $, so if 304 will do it, I'll get that!
I think it's more $, so if 304 will do it, I'll get that!
wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
Its usually marked " A2-70"
BTW the expression is per capita - Its latin and means "per head" i think you mixed both... :ummm:
That makes sense to me!
In my defense, it's commonly used in the media! (By the BBC too.)
What you have said seems more correct.
http://www.google.com.au/search?q="...&ie=&oe=&redir_esc=&ei=XKqoTvuzKc2biQe32d2mDg
BTW I dislike the use of "PIN number" and "ATM machine" for the same reason. It it is is dumb dumb. :rofl_200:
