hey guys new max owner here. long story short bought a max with 13000 miles battery was weak brought it home charged battery no problems for a few days. started it on third day no problem went to start about 2-3 hours later rolled over fine i thought but would'nt fire which quickly ran battery down. thought well battery is toast so i jumped it off another battery bam fired right up. thought ok battery is not putting out proper voltage once you put a load on it not enough to fire coils. ok ordered a agm battery put in new battery hit starter button nothing but a box of rocks. so i pulled starter clutch out and this is what i found asembly is cracked clean through where spring goes. i hope it starts once new starter clutch is in and it was just the battery not putting out enough voltage under load and not another problem. i must say this is the shittiest design i have ever seen to where if a battery is weak it will waste the starter clutch. any way i would like to know if it would be safe to use brake cleaner to clean up the cover because of the pick up coil and stator? dont want to damage either of those.
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It's looking like my starter clutch is on the way out, and don't know when I will have time to do it myself. anyone know how long it takes, or what a decent price to have it done is???? It's intermittent right now, but it's gonna go.:confused2:
I helped a friend with his wife's Max and it took us about 3-4 hours. Hardest part will be removing flywheel but with Kent's industrial puller it took less than 10 whacks of a sledge to pop that bad boy off.
Thanks, you have any idea what I will need to do this myself (parts wise) I hate starting things like this on a weekend, and finding out I forgot one or two things, and waiting a week to finish it. I do alot myself, but the only bike shop I use is an independent that's been around for 40 years, and they are real good, and not overpriced. I called to price the clutch, and with the hub it's around $200, but they are way backed up in the shop, so it's gonna be me doing it. Also what flywheel puller will I need?
Try Mondak. Contact info is in the VMF Links section. You can get starter clutch, gear and bolts there for about $150 plus shipping. You will also need the stator cover gasket and middle gear cover gasket. That should about do it. Watch for the crush gasket on the bottom middle gear cover bolt. You can get a new one but they can be reused. The puller he used was one from pcwracing.net. You can use a Craftman puller but make sure you use grade 8 bolts with it.
You kinda know your way around these, don't you.:worthy:
I wonder if it's better to use a universal puller than a Yamaha puller. I've been working on bikes since I was a kid, and flywheel pulling is always like changing a poopy diaper, you know you have to do it, but you know it aint gonna go right.:rofl_200: I can't tell you how many new pullers years ago I stripped!! Also, did you have to heat it, or just soak it and whack it? I appreciate any help.
No, no heat or lube. Loosened the outer nut but left it on so the flywheel didn't fly off the shaft. Tighten puller good and tight and hit it with sledge. I didn't even hit it that hard. I think the key is the bolts.
I'll have to ask. I believe he bought universal and had a machinist friend supply the bolts. I'll let you know.
Hello,
Took it apart a couple of times, and now it's completely ok.
Quick (?!) procedure is as follows:
- Put the bike on 5th gear and press the rear brake down. Put something (a piece of wood) between the rear brake lever and the engine in order to keep the brake pressure on. This prevents flywheel from turning when you release the nut.
- Put the bike to lean against a wall (use some softener between the bike and the wall) on it's right side. This prevents engine oil from getting out when you release the flywheel cover and the flywheel. Then there is no need to dry the engine oil.
- Remove the footrest (left side only)
- Remove the gear lever
- Open the bolts of the two covers on the left side of the engine.
- Remove the covers
- Take a suitable hex socket key (I remember 19 mm) wrench and open the flywheel bolt. Remove the nut, the socket plate and the pin that is inside the crankshaft
- Take suitable flywheel puller (the original is good, or you can let a machinist to make a suitable one - see the photo enclosed) and thread it in
- Reserve LONG AND STRONG ENOUGH holding key and equally long opener (see photo, this one is the holding key)
- Turn the flywheel in the position where the holding key locks itself agains the passenger's footrest.
- Then turn the bolt with opener key clockwise. The flywheel - no matter how tight it is - will jump out.
- Then just change the starter clutch. Note that before you assemble the new one, use a special thread making tool to fix the 3 pcs of M8 threads in the flywheel. This is important.
- Renew the 3 pcs of M8 bolts that hold the starter clutch.
- Then using locktite install the new set.
- You can install the parts back in reverse order, but don't lift the bike before the locktite is dry. Otherwise the engine oil may have some negative effect. The correct tightening torque for the flywheel bolt is 130 Nm. Don't forget to put the pin back inside the crankshaft before tightening the nut!
The release-installation process will not take long. Not more than 2 hours. But you'd better let the locktite to dry, so maybe 3...4 hours totally including that.
Can be done by one man, but if it's first time to open for a long time, better to have assistance for safety.
In the below photo I've dried the oil. But usually I use the method described above, as it is much quicker and cleaner. So no need to dry the oil.
Important thing is to use PROPER, BIG ENOUGH tools. Refer to below photo.
Regards,
AT
Took it apart a couple of times, and now it's completely ok.
Quick (?!) procedure is as follows:
- Put the bike on 5th gear and press the rear brake down. Put something (a piece of wood) between the rear brake lever and the engine in order to keep the brake pressure on. This prevents flywheel from turning when you release the nut.
- Put the bike to lean against a wall (use some softener between the bike and the wall) on it's right side. This prevents engine oil from getting out when you release the flywheel cover and the flywheel. Then there is no need to dry the engine oil.
- Remove the footrest (left side only)
- Remove the gear lever
- Open the bolts of the two covers on the left side of the engine.
- Remove the covers
- Take a suitable hex socket key (I remember 19 mm) wrench and open the flywheel bolt. Remove the nut, the socket plate and the pin that is inside the crankshaft
- Take suitable flywheel puller (the original is good, or you can let a machinist to make a suitable one - see the photo enclosed) and thread it in
- Reserve LONG AND STRONG ENOUGH holding key and equally long opener (see photo, this one is the holding key)
- Turn the flywheel in the position where the holding key locks itself agains the passenger's footrest.
- Then turn the bolt with opener key clockwise. The flywheel - no matter how tight it is - will jump out.
- Then just change the starter clutch. Note that before you assemble the new one, use a special thread making tool to fix the 3 pcs of M8 threads in the flywheel. This is important.
- Renew the 3 pcs of M8 bolts that hold the starter clutch.
- Then using locktite install the new set.
- You can install the parts back in reverse order, but don't lift the bike before the locktite is dry. Otherwise the engine oil may have some negative effect. The correct tightening torque for the flywheel bolt is 130 Nm. Don't forget to put the pin back inside the crankshaft before tightening the nut!
The release-installation process will not take long. Not more than 2 hours. But you'd better let the locktite to dry, so maybe 3...4 hours totally including that.
Can be done by one man, but if it's first time to open for a long time, better to have assistance for safety.
In the below photo I've dried the oil. But usually I use the method described above, as it is much quicker and cleaner. So no need to dry the oil.
Important thing is to use PROPER, BIG ENOUGH tools. Refer to below photo.
Regards,
AT
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