Tuning for individual air filters.

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lankeeyankee

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Ok heres the deal. I have a stage 1 dynojet installed.
Dynojet needles. Dynojet mainjets 160, Factory springs with 4 coils tied. everything else is factory.
Stock VBOOST has been bypassed to always run open.
I am running stock bore. Head intake and exhaust port matching, and mild port & polish on the exhaust ports.
I am running a Kerker 4-1 with custom made baffle little more free flowing than the comp 2.5 baffle.
I bought some individual air filters and also took the advice of ordering some air correctors from Dynojet this morning. I am located in TN which has high humidity avg 90%+ in summer months with a sea level averging around 750 FT above.
My question is? What main jets are you guys running with simliar setups.

The breather tube that usually goes in the bottom of the air box now has a mini breather attached.
The 4 black hoses that used to attach to the air box will go on a fitting that will be tapped and threaded to each air filter.
Yeah I know I could just buy the stage 7 kit for 300.00 + but I only have around 165 in this setup including the stage 1 kit which was a waste.
 
Most run 155mk mains with stage 7.The 4 vent hoses are also removed with stage 7.So your slides are not drilled?You'll need to run it after installing the restrictors.See how it does.You may want to get the puke tank eventually,The filter will eventually start misting everything with oil.I would also switch to mikuni mains when you get a chance.Better quality.
 
I agree with Shawn. I used MK 155's with the individual filters....even worked when I used velocity stacks. Remove the float bowl vents unless you plan on using velocity stacks.

The DJ 160's you're running now are pretty close to Mikuni 150's so they would be lean regardless. DJ 165's are a little leaner than Mikuni 155's and DJ 170's are richer.

BTW, I'm running at around 800-900 ft above sea level.

Mark
#1098
 
next time you can buy the stage seven kit without the filters (which is where you save the bulk of your money). then you would have the better springs, air correctors and adjustable needles. Get your cheap filters and you're almost done.

Sean
 
now that i know what the part is, what does it mean to be "tied"???
Thanks

c2-sm.jpg


You take your stock slide springs"from your carbs" and tie them with wire to make them shorter by 4 coil lengths.
 
Ok I think most of you missed the part of I already have a DYNOJET STAGE 1 installed I am just using the ADJUSTABLE NEEDLES and DJ Main Jets I tie the coil of the spring to adjust the carb slide speed to vacumn speed The reason I dont cut them is once you cut them your done you cant go back so now if your slides rise to fast your basically screwed tieing the springs allows you to adjust
I have been told that the DJ Mains work better with the DJ needles due to the shape of the jet
If I have any problems with the carbs I will throw some MK 155 mains in. Thanks for the input

:worthy:
 
Are the slides drilled yet?[/quote]


No Shawn. I've always been told not to drill the slides. If I may ask you, drilling slides controls the vac pressure which will effect the speed of the slides? Adjust slide spring pressure effects the same as the hole size in the slide, correct if I am right.

:ummm:
 
Are the slides drilled yet?


No Shawn. I've always been told not to drill the slides. If I may ask you, drilling slides controls the vac pressure which will effect the speed of the slides? Adjust slide spring pressure effects the same as the hole size in the slide, correct if I am right.

:ummm:[/quote]

My slides are drilled and I run cut springs in my stage 7 carbs.Faster throttle response.
 
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