What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2
- Thread starter Buster Hymen
- Start date
Help Support VMAX Forum:
The most difficult task so far, removing the seal.
Started off by using a bicycle spoke at various positions in the hole but noticed it bending (the bend should be 90 degree) and got worried it may break off inside.
Took a piece of mild steel yo make a puller.... and it's out.
Started off by using a bicycle spoke at various positions in the hole but noticed it bending (the bend should be 90 degree) and got worried it may break off inside.
Took a piece of mild steel yo make a puller.... and it's out.
Attachments
One side of the pushrod has a dimple. this is the seat of a 11/32" steel ball on the other side and inside of pushrod #2. Be careful as not sure if that ball can fall inside with pushrod #1 removed?
Ok, I got up and checked the compression on the bike 160, 160, 135, &160 cold (yeah I know)So I know I have an issue with #3...grappling with the willingness to pull the engine...I got some carb cleaner, and sprayed them out then blew them out with air, and when I restarted the bike I noticed that my #3 cylinder was firing, but my #2 carburetor was doing this...(in the video it goes 2,3,4,1) any ideas why #2 is running gas out of "that hole", and none of the others are?
Thanks for the late tip, I did not see any ball bearings. Only way it could come out was if push rod was magnetised.
At quarter to 7 got the lever bled - a long day - and clutch is very firm. Let's see how it stays like that.
During testing I almost had a heart attack as engine stalled once in gear..... of course it was because the side stand was down....all good when up
At quarter to 7 got the lever bled - a long day - and clutch is very firm. Let's see how it stays like that.
During testing I almost had a heart attack as engine stalled once in gear..... of course it was because the side stand was down....all good when up
Yeah, should be fine. The ball would just stay in the input transmission shaft which is obviously hollow. When you put the pushrod back in would push the ball bearing back in place.
Did a ffew body mods…
You must have the quickest bike in the Caymans! Tasteful mods, I like it.
Took a little break from the Vmax’s today and dug out my Bultaco Matador/Pursang . It's been sitting to long. I am going to just make it a decent looking rider not a total restoration.
Attachments
So cool that bike! I like the sheetmetal screws in the rim to keep the tire tube from being sheared-off when running low tire pressures in that knobby. I did the same thing on my Yamaha 360 Enduro, but I used allen head machine screws in the aluminum Sun rim I put in-place of the OEM steel rim. Changing or patching tubes was quicker using the screws instead of using rim locks.
One of my friends raced in Europe for Bultaco in the 1960's, and invited Senor FX Bulto to the USA to see the dealers here. He traveled across the country with him, to visit the shops. My friend was a second-generation Bultaco dealer. I visited the Bultaco dealership his parents ran, one of my friends had a 175cc Bultaco Campera, and another had a Pursang, a third had an Alpina. I have pics on another computer of my Yamaha mechanic friend's Bultaco Metralla, their 250cc streetbike, but it has an Astro short track engine in it, nearly twice the RWHP of the stock Metralla.
Is that an S&W rear shock pair? They were good. I have Konis on my 360.
One of my friends raced in Europe for Bultaco in the 1960's, and invited Senor FX Bulto to the USA to see the dealers here. He traveled across the country with him, to visit the shops. My friend was a second-generation Bultaco dealer. I visited the Bultaco dealership his parents ran, one of my friends had a 175cc Bultaco Campera, and another had a Pursang, a third had an Alpina. I have pics on another computer of my Yamaha mechanic friend's Bultaco Metralla, their 250cc streetbike, but it has an Astro short track engine in it, nearly twice the RWHP of the stock Metralla.
Is that an S&W rear shock pair? They were good. I have Konis on my 360.
Who makes that chin spoiler? How much?
As a matter of course do you replace the oil pump o-ring that sometimes is prone to dislodging?
Yes sir I replace all of the orings and use the Kawasaki oring. This is the one in this engine.
Attachments
Lookit that popped O-ring fellas!
I did the same as Captain except also did Morley's HD oiling mod. Different intermediate oil pump drive gear that has an extra tooth.
..certainly the quickest VMax ! for sure...
I did, ...started with the 'RAM-AIR' Spoiler from EXACTREP in UK 'RAM-AIR' Spoiler for 2009 Vmax 1700 ©
...then did my own mod and Fiberglassed it as I didn't like how it looked..
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2022
- Messages
- 36
- Reaction score
- 26
Just finished a full coolant flush:
1- Empty coolant
2- 50/50 Distilled Water/Distilled White Vinegar flush (bike running 10/15 minutes)
3- Distilled Water flush (bike running 10/15 minutes)
4- Replaced a couple of hoses (hard to find them online but eBay always to the rescue)
4- Added new coolant
AFAIK the bike never had a full system flush so not sure if it is a placebo effect but I felt it is now running smoother and more responsive. There was a white substance that came out after doing the flushing that floated to the top of the water/vinegar after drained.
1- Empty coolant
2- 50/50 Distilled Water/Distilled White Vinegar flush (bike running 10/15 minutes)
3- Distilled Water flush (bike running 10/15 minutes)
4- Replaced a couple of hoses (hard to find them online but eBay always to the rescue)
4- Added new coolant
AFAIK the bike never had a full system flush so not sure if it is a placebo effect but I felt it is now running smoother and more responsive. There was a white substance that came out after doing the flushing that floated to the top of the water/vinegar after drained.
Was it at-all grainy? It could be some of the calcification build-up from never changing the coolant. You did your bike a favor by doing the flush. I have pics on another computer of grainy material I scooped out of an engine when I removed the heads to lap-in the valves and to change the cyl head gaskets. It almost looked like clumped-together salt crystals.
